280ZX (NA) to 280ZX Turbo swap
It runs smooth until I ever get to half throttle or get the rpms to 2600 rpm then it POPs and chokes down... comes right back though. Its almost like the pop is detonation or something. Not quiet like pinging though. Its a muffled pop out front. Nothing sounds like its going out the exhaust pipe.
I think i know what you're talking about. My Z did this thing were it would rev, in nuetral, to about 2 something then choke or struggle but give it a little more gas and it reved fine. but it only did it when slowly bringing the revs up. And under a load it was fine. I dont remember what i did to fix it though.
have you actually checked the timing Bleach??? The car has a knock sensor and if you're too advanced and the engine is detonating then the ECU is going to cut timing and send your rev's packing. Also, have you tested your TPS for proper operation? A bad TPS can very easily cause the problems you're having.
One more question: Did this motor and all its components come out of a known running car???
One more question: Did this motor and all its components come out of a known running car???
I can keep revving it if I try... but it pops more often. I hate to do that.
On my test drive the car would studder a little when trying to accelerate and it it poped the car would slow way down.
I have no timing light, can you believe that?
i'm gonna go mess with the dizzy again! Maybe my mechanic put the oil pump spindle in one tooth off! dang that guy... he was probably drinking again while working on the Z
On my test drive the car would studder a little when trying to accelerate and it it poped the car would slow way down.
I have no timing light, can you believe that?
i'm gonna go mess with the dizzy again! Maybe my mechanic put the oil pump spindle in one tooth off! dang that guy... he was probably drinking again while working on the Z
timing should've been the first thing you checked. You can put a hole through a piston with your timing too far off in the wrong direction
You can get a standard timing light for about $20-$30 at a parts store.
You can get a standard timing light for about $20-$30 at a parts store.
Whenever I first put mine back together it had the same popping that you speak of, of course it turned out to be that i fugged up the oil pump installation. Approximately half a dozen installations later I got it correct and the car ran hahaha. Wait, Actually I didn't even mention this, the oil pump shaft was off so much that one of those pops actually BLEW off the the afm when it was fully attached so be careful with any adjustments you make.
Edit: You're not car dumb like I was so Im sure you have nothing to worry about.
Edit: You're not car dumb like I was so Im sure you have nothing to worry about.
the oil pump was ok. I just had kept retarding the timing thinking it was too advanced. I was too retarded!

I advanced it all the way and no more popping. The AFM I tried today really was bad as I had thought. So I put the one back on that came with my engine. It revvs fine to 5K.
I drove down the street and got some 92. The car drives just fine now, but is much slower than my NA. I can feel it kinda hesitating through the rpms like that knock sensor that J speaks of. Maybe overall I'm still a little lean or maybe I can just barely bring the ignition timing back a little...
I should get a timing light and a fuel pressure gauge.
sounds like a mini airplane under the hood now
I'm going to drive it to work tomorrow. I should be good for a road trip but this thing is no race car yet...

I advanced it all the way and no more popping. The AFM I tried today really was bad as I had thought. So I put the one back on that came with my engine. It revvs fine to 5K.
I drove down the street and got some 92. The car drives just fine now, but is much slower than my NA. I can feel it kinda hesitating through the rpms like that knock sensor that J speaks of. Maybe overall I'm still a little lean or maybe I can just barely bring the ignition timing back a little...
I should get a timing light and a fuel pressure gauge.
sounds like a mini airplane under the hood now
I'm going to drive it to work tomorrow. I should be good for a road trip but this thing is no race car yet...
Last edited by Bleach; Jul 11, 2006 at 09:48 PM.
I made it to work in the turbo Z. It did pop once on the freeway as i was trying to accelerate quick. The rest of the time I just drove easy.
I want it to run gooood! ...and I want a BOV so I can be Fast & Furious.
I want it to run gooood! ...and I want a BOV so I can be Fast & Furious.
did you run over his rice wing there bleach!! hahahahaha. if you dont got a light when you come up, we'll spend some time at my shop with everyone and get your car running right. but that is friday, and its only wednesday. i got everything we would need, and extra spares of stuff, so if something is screwed, it can be fixed.
I picked up a timing light and an old school boost gauge for free. (my dad had them)
I found most of the injectors were loose at the base causing a vaccum and boost leak. I tightened them all down.
The timing was 32 BTDC. I set it at 25 BTDC (so my oil pump was inserted correctly)
Only minor change in driving behavior. Boost come in smooth and fast. The gauge maxes at 7psi and I reach 7 by 3500 rpm. After that the car will hardly go any higher in rpms. In fact, in 4th gear it WONT go any higher. I get stuck at about 3800 rpm WOT, full boost... now that's power... can't even accelerate on level pavement.
I hooked up the BOV again. Only minor changes in the idle... so I can live with it since it seems all my other leaks are fixed. That thing blows a lot... it blows long and hard
anyway, I'm off for some DNB... maybe we can tune it in Canada but lets not spend the whole weekend doing that. The car drives great under normal conditions and under 3500rpm
pssst pssst
I found most of the injectors were loose at the base causing a vaccum and boost leak. I tightened them all down.
The timing was 32 BTDC. I set it at 25 BTDC (so my oil pump was inserted correctly)
Only minor change in driving behavior. Boost come in smooth and fast. The gauge maxes at 7psi and I reach 7 by 3500 rpm. After that the car will hardly go any higher in rpms. In fact, in 4th gear it WONT go any higher. I get stuck at about 3800 rpm WOT, full boost... now that's power... can't even accelerate on level pavement.
I hooked up the BOV again. Only minor changes in the idle... so I can live with it since it seems all my other leaks are fixed. That thing blows a lot... it blows long and hard
anyway, I'm off for some DNB... maybe we can tune it in Canada but lets not spend the whole weekend doing that. The car drives great under normal conditions and under 3500rpm
pssst pssst
Originally Posted by duowing
I mean you probably did, and you probably already know. Maybe I even missed it, but did you set the timing with the TPS disconnected?
Unplugging the TPS could only possibly change my fuel mixture though...
Originally Posted by NismoPick
Yeah... ya gotta disconnect the TPS plug.... the turbo ecu controls advance through the TPS.

I'm thinking I still have a leak by the injectors... maybe those new o-rings are all bad or something else is up... intake gasket leaking.
The white paint on the exhaust manifold is now bright pink!
hehe
sounds like your tps could be **** all together ..but iam unsure for sure ...
i know that if that thing gets wet then i wouldnt go past 3500 rpm for me ..
so mabe your is whack? good to see you got that motor in ..i found a car to swap turbo motors from so as soon as old brown sells i will be doing it to so ..sence you figured it all out bleach it wont
be to hard to do , with your help good guy lololol ... lolol aug 19th i will be there for sure
i know that if that thing gets wet then i wouldnt go past 3500 rpm for me ..
so mabe your is whack? good to see you got that motor in ..i found a car to swap turbo motors from so as soon as old brown sells i will be doing it to so ..sence you figured it all out bleach it wont
be to hard to do , with your help good guy lololol ... lolol aug 19th i will be there for sure
Wooooooooooooooooosh.. put put put
I fixed it! One of the injectors was missing the o-ring. I put in a used one, used some lube, and tightened everything down. Now it pulls hard!
My BOV is still installed but without the vaccum line hooked up. This way it stays closed at idle. The BOV starts to sputter at 6-7psi so I'm losing a little power there but the car pulls hard... at least i can say its faster than my non-turbo engine now!
hehe... just in time for some Canada driving, eh?
The moral of the story is, if it sounds like a vaccum leak, it probably is a vaccum leak.
Vaccum leaks become boost leaks when they get under pressure...
I fixed it! One of the injectors was missing the o-ring. I put in a used one, used some lube, and tightened everything down. Now it pulls hard!
My BOV is still installed but without the vaccum line hooked up. This way it stays closed at idle. The BOV starts to sputter at 6-7psi so I'm losing a little power there but the car pulls hard... at least i can say its faster than my non-turbo engine now!
hehe... just in time for some Canada driving, eh?The moral of the story is, if it sounds like a vaccum leak, it probably is a vaccum leak.
Vaccum leaks become boost leaks when they get under pressure...



