flutter ? miss fire and poping ...hmhmhm advance that bitch ... what did you set your valve lash to ? .010 ex .008 intake ..if you did that you need to run a little more advanced turn your idle up with it and take her for a run you will see that you popoing will be less ..now find a tps and new afm ..just so you can swap both and see if there is a change.. i would also look for a new dissy just for peace of mind ...most likly your dissy or afm are a little messed up from sitting so long .the guy you got that car from had , had them sitting for a few years befor you got them ...i knew of them for a long time before i told you ..what about head temp sensor ..do the turbo cars have them ....
the only thing that tells your ecu anything is your afm oxygen sensor and head temp sensor
turbo car or na ..its always the afm ..i have one here but its going in my swap sorry dog ..
check out on hwy 522.... grey went to see his dad he lives out there and there is a Z junk yard out there ..iam going to go there with him next time he goes over there ...iam sure you can find it ..he said there is like a 100 z cars out there of all kinds ...my girls cousin was the frist person to tell me about it there out ther go find it.. your not to far away i bet they will have a few turbo cars for sure ..sound like your not to far from it running good just a part or two to go ...i need a turbo dissy and turbo fuel pump to so if you find that place befor i have grey take me there let me know what you find out ....

also i was just thinking ..why are you using that old tps and trottle body ? dont you have a 60mm weber laying around or mabe it was a msa one ..slap that baby on there along with a FPR and you should beable to ajust it more .... tuning these old beast are all the work ..i seem to have to retune mine every week ..
its just the way of the z ..mine runs cleaner on a more advanced spark curve with the valves opening more it seems to like it that way better ..grey says and i quote "boost leaks are a bitch !" end quote.
also what about that part under the afm ? on the turbo car there was alot of hoses running to some sort of vac controler ..i seen it when i took that turbo afm off that car last week ..did you use that stuff off the car you got or did that car not have one ..we didnt know what it was grey thought it could have been the stock boost controler .... it had vacum lines from it that ran to the turbo....
we where unsure what it was ?

 

grey said that you take 522 take the 1st exit into 195th and duvall... get off the exit take a left and follow it for 1 miles. its on the right and you cant miss it.. take pics

 

to me it seems more likely to be lean than rich. I don't see any thick exhaust coming out the back. My NA ran rich at times for various reasons and it still had good power when rich.

Ok, I advanced it all the way which is approx 32* BTDC. It runs a little better but still not pulling hard like it should. It does pop now and then out the intake still, especially in 1st and 2nd gear. Seems like when you put more load on it in the higher gears it pulls better under boost... which isn't saying much. I have a feeling my NA was as fast or faster than this now.

Get this, in neutral if I floor it the rpms max out at 4800rpm. If I give it about 3/4 throttle in neutral, I can revv it all the way out... 5500+
also, it seems to pull a little better when not wide open... even though the TPS doesn't detect WOT. Oh, and the big throttle cut my power back on the NA, I don't want that thing on my turbo car. I'm not boring out the manifold. I'm going for a smooth transition, quick spooling, smaller intercooler piping to match the factory throttle.

Maybe what I do need is a rebuildt AFM. I have two turbo AFMs here, one I know is bad. Won't go over 3500rpm. They both might just need a good cleaning inside. Also, after my test run today with the advanced igntion, the car's idle is not quite as smooth anymore.

I did another test when I got back for any leaks. Don't find any now. I don't think boost leaks are an issue at this point.

Under the throttle body there is one line that connects to the carbon canister. That line is plugged. The AAC unit that has all those hoses that run to the intake is still wired into the harness but none of those hoses exist anymore. All have been removed. They ran to the EGR and AAC valves with are both gone.

I really need an A/F gauge now and fuel pressure gauge. Maybe I'll have to wait till I get those to fully diagnose my problems. Untill then, I'll read J's how-to on rebuilding an Air Flow Meter.

 

Crucial. You're so close. Keep it up bleach.

 

That sounds like a rich condition VS. a lean one...


Rod.

 

Sounds like your making progress. Fuel pressure is critical. Does your jsk rail have a provision for a pressure gauge?

 

man, i really dont think its lean. i drove behind you for quite a while, and i noticed some deffinate fuel smoke, as well as a hint of oil blue, especially when you shifted. and there was that gas smell, even thought the plugs were dry, you gotta figure out where thats coming from. and i really think you need to take one more look at the afm, just a thought.

 

ya bleach way to go...i think your running lean as well ..turn up your fpr ..
try a new tps ..the reving thing makes me think that your tps is set just alittle wrong or has gone **** up..if i turn my tps a little it does wierd **** like that to ..we found that out the hard way i had to set it back ...the reson i wanted you to advance it was to see if the poping went down ..now that it has you can tell for sure that your running lean ...my car was doing the same thing..poping more and more missing just alittle ..i pulled my plugs and they where white ....lean lean lean .... i swaped afms turned up my fpr cleaed my plugs.i have waited a few days and today i think i will check there color ....yesturday i rebluild my dissy from parts from four other dissy lololol..that one was fun...
she seems to be running clean now ...your plugs will tell you what your motor is doing better than a gau will ...
white ant right , black is wack ,
light brown and your throwing down...
lololol anyway sounds like your on it ...let me know if you get out by 522 ..
i really want to know what that place has..grey said it was piled high with Z cars ..i need a bunch of z goodies .

 

valve seals will make it poop out some smelly along with that oil blue ...
running a zx lean is wierd .and iam sure with the turbo motor pushing in more air it would act up even more than the na ..you gett some smelly and some smoke just not the same as the rich rich zone ..
i would check or swap
afm , tps , o2 , ecu ,fuel pump , make sure there is no boost leaks .
check and recheck plug color .
check recheck and clean all connections all of them !

 

word

 

and they were light brown colour when he pulled them that time it wouldnt start...we tought he flooded it and it be soaked but they were fine!...

 

yep, every time he pulled the plugs, they looked just fine.

 

Bleach... you blocked off the AAC port right? Can you put it back on & hook up the VCM controller to it? Also, do you have the VCM unit hooked up correctly right now?

 

i think you mean this place. about 5 minutes from me.

 

oh ya, Z specialties is not a Z wrecking yard. That is a Z-store with a few cars he is parting out. You'll pay a premium price for individual parts from him.

The AAC unit is still plugged in and yes the port on the manifold is blocked.

So there is this yellow wire on the plug by the ECU for cold start. It is supposed to be hooked up to power only while cranking so the ECU enrichens the mixture for starting. This is because the turbo cars dont' have a cold start injector. Never leave this wire plugged into constant power or your car will run rich.

So I plugged it into constant power out in the parking lot and took it for a drive. BAM! There's my power! It idles like crap because its way too rich but the answer is there. The car IS running lean under boost. I'm also thinking, I'm running on the lean side but it runs awesome like it is. Maybe I should try to get this thing through my emissions check before I mess with anything else.

AFM is probably crapped out

 

I'm wondering if that would solve my problem. It almost seems like I'm running too lean while warming up then too rich at warm. It might be worth a try, you say it's a yellow wire on the ECU, and which wire did you attatch it to for always on power?

 

It is the six connection plug about 8 inches up the bundle of wires from the ECU. One of those yellow wires goes to the transistor on the coil. The other gets power for the cold start feature. I found a large wire with a single connection plastic clip on the end. It has power when the car is on. I just stuck the end in there. Remember, my engine is a turbo swap into an NA body so that single wire is from the NA dash harness. Also, if your car is a stock turbo then that six prong connector has all the wires going to where they need to go already.

 

Oh, so this wouldn't be an option available to me then, if I get you right? Because it is a stock turbo.

 

nope. You could cut the wire on the off chance that it is supplied with power all the time but I doubt it is. I think it is tied in with the "START" position on your ignition switch so if that wire had power all the time then your starter would be cranking all the time.

 

have you checked operation of your fuel pressure regulator? cause when i pulled the vaccum line to it on the weekend, it didnt raise the idle like its supposed to. i think it could be a contributing factor, if it doesnt work, the there is no excess fuel getting to the rail under accel. just my opinon

 

I think Shady's on to something here. If your RRFPR isn't RRFPR'ing, you're going to be lean at boost.

What brand and model RRFPR are you running?

 

Wasn't Bleach using the stocker FPR? It's not RR.

 

It must be if it's using a vacuum/boost to 'activate' it.

 

It is the stock regulator, but I painted it blue! come one, that's gotta count for something...

don't all regulators use vaccum/boost to activate?

 

yes ...you need a RR FPR .with the jsk rail and a stock fpr your not going to ever run right .... but i dont think that is the cause of all your problems ..but mabe part of it ....this is what i have ..pretty cheap but has worked great for over a year ...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FUEL-...QQcmdZViewItem