280ZX (NA) to 280ZX Turbo swap
07-09-2006, 10:17 PM
#252
The Evil Twin
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Seattle, WA
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Ok, on my question about the temp gauge I just took a mini zip tie and tied to two plug together and plugged one in! 
hehe.. ghetto rigged so now the Turbo ECU can see the temp and my dash temp gauge works. Muahaha!
The car runs ok. It did drive. I won't go full throttle because it starts to backfire out the intake when I get on it too much. Could be running lean? But its only doing this at 3K rpm.
Also, that BOV is hissing and going off almost all the time... like its under boost while driving easy at 1800rpm. I'm not sure, but I don't think it should be boosting while driving 35mph in 4th gear. what do you think? I think it is boosting at idle and that's why the idle stays so high all the time.
I put a good amount of penetrating oil on the wastegate mechanism and then moved it a little with some pliers. The rubbers hoses from the wastegate actuator to the turbo are all new so there are no leaks there.
Could this all be from a vacuum leak? I don't see one but maybe one of my blockoff plates is not working or something like that. Would that leak caust it to boost prematurely?
hehe.. ghetto rigged so now the Turbo ECU can see the temp and my dash temp gauge works. Muahaha!The car runs ok. It did drive. I won't go full throttle because it starts to backfire out the intake when I get on it too much. Could be running lean? But its only doing this at 3K rpm.
Also, that BOV is hissing and going off almost all the time... like its under boost while driving easy at 1800rpm. I'm not sure, but I don't think it should be boosting while driving 35mph in 4th gear. what do you think? I think it is boosting at idle and that's why the idle stays so high all the time.
I put a good amount of penetrating oil on the wastegate mechanism and then moved it a little with some pliers. The rubbers hoses from the wastegate actuator to the turbo are all new so there are no leaks there.
Could this all be from a vacuum leak? I don't see one but maybe one of my blockoff plates is not working or something like that. Would that leak caust it to boost prematurely?
07-09-2006, 10:36 PM
#253
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Layton, UT
Posts: 788
Is it registering positive pressure, or "0" boost or vacuum?
If it's showing zero on your boost gauge, there's a leak somewhere.
As for your BOV constantly releasing, you've first got to figure how it operates. Be sure the vacuum line running to the top of your BOV goes to the intake manifold AFTER the throttle body, in the plenum. This way, the BOV will read both intake pressure and vacuum [when your throttle plate closes]. Under boost, the intake obviously sees this pressure, and its transferred through the hose to the BOV, which uses intake pressure to stay closed.
If you've got a manifold leak somewhere, your BOV will float, and your idle will be unnaturally high. That was the case with my Pontiac Sunbird GT Turbo, I had a vacuum line get brittle, and crack, and it idled at 2200revs, showing "0" on the boost gauge. Even that tiny vacuum port messed with my car. Be sure to once-over everything.
I think I've found your problem, Bleach. Check your manifold over once or thrice, make absolutely sure there's no leaks.
If it's showing zero on your boost gauge, there's a leak somewhere.
As for your BOV constantly releasing, you've first got to figure how it operates. Be sure the vacuum line running to the top of your BOV goes to the intake manifold AFTER the throttle body, in the plenum. This way, the BOV will read both intake pressure and vacuum [when your throttle plate closes]. Under boost, the intake obviously sees this pressure, and its transferred through the hose to the BOV, which uses intake pressure to stay closed.
If you've got a manifold leak somewhere, your BOV will float, and your idle will be unnaturally high. That was the case with my Pontiac Sunbird GT Turbo, I had a vacuum line get brittle, and crack, and it idled at 2200revs, showing "0" on the boost gauge. Even that tiny vacuum port messed with my car. Be sure to once-over everything.
I think I've found your problem, Bleach. Check your manifold over once or thrice, make absolutely sure there's no leaks.
Last edited by Dorifto; 07-09-2006 at 10:38 PM.
07-09-2006, 10:50 PM
#254
The Evil Twin
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Seattle, WA
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I kind of had that idea so ya, I'll go check for leaks again. Thanks.
also, I dont' have a boost gauge. I'm running NA gauges in the car and I don't own a boost gauge yet. I'm relying on the POV and BOV to keep me from overboosting in case of a problem with the wastegate... for now. I will get a gauge soon.
You could probably see from the pics that the BOV hose is going to the middle of the manifold. I'm getting the signal from right next to the FPR hose. I see it working properly when I move the throttle by hand and watch the BOV
Here are some pics for you folks.
don't mount the AAC unit here, move it back a couple inches or else the radiator will hit it.
- - - -
How about this stupid thing... could my vacuum leak be going through this?
also, I dont' have a boost gauge. I'm running NA gauges in the car and I don't own a boost gauge yet. I'm relying on the POV and BOV to keep me from overboosting in case of a problem with the wastegate... for now. I will get a gauge soon.
You could probably see from the pics that the BOV hose is going to the middle of the manifold. I'm getting the signal from right next to the FPR hose. I see it working properly when I move the throttle by hand and watch the BOV
Here are some pics for you folks.
don't mount the AAC unit here, move it back a couple inches or else the radiator will hit it.
- - - -
How about this stupid thing... could my vacuum leak be going through this?
07-10-2006, 07:58 AM
#260
Originally Posted by Bleach
- - - -
How about this stupid thing... could my vacuum leak be going through this?
How about this stupid thing... could my vacuum leak be going through this?
07-10-2006, 08:21 AM
#261
The Evil Twin
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All hoses are brand new as well as all hose clamps. It looks ... new, and not kinked
Every single vacuum hose and fuel hose on that car is new except for the valve cover vent hose which looks to be in good shape. That hose has a unique pre-formed shape to it so I reinstalled it.
I'm just wondering if one of those items on the intake is bypassing air from that hose... I'll check tonight when I get home. I didn't go back out and work on my car last night. I drove the Toyota today.
Every single vacuum hose and fuel hose on that car is new except for the valve cover vent hose which looks to be in good shape. That hose has a unique pre-formed shape to it so I reinstalled it.
I'm just wondering if one of those items on the intake is bypassing air from that hose... I'll check tonight when I get home. I didn't go back out and work on my car last night. I drove the Toyota today.
07-10-2006, 08:33 AM
#263
The Evil Twin
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no, the boost sensor is not installed at all. The port for it is used for the BOV. I removed the small port and replaced it with the larger size one (from the canister on the NA engine) so I could run the larger BOV hose to it.
Should I plug in the boost sensor and run a hose to the intake anyway? ...even though I dont' have the stock gauge; will this be good info for the ECU?
Should I plug in the boost sensor and run a hose to the intake anyway? ...even though I dont' have the stock gauge; will this be good info for the ECU?
07-10-2006, 08:51 AM
#264
When I first did my turbo swap, my boost gauge wouldn't work... even w/ the hose hooked up right.... and my car really struggled to get past 3k. I got a diff boost sensor from the junk yard & it helped a lot... tho it seems like the boost sensor isn't tied to the ecu???
07-10-2006, 09:59 AM
#265
The Evil Twin
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correct. The boost sensor plugs in on the coil wiring harness section. That piece does have an 8 wire plug that connects to the ECU harness so it is possible that it gives a signal there. Everyone that does an S30 turbo swap has said nothing about using the factory boost sensor. Right now I don't even have those wires spliced in.
07-10-2006, 05:39 PM
#266
The Evil Twin
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Problem 1 fixed: I adjusted the stopper on the gas pedal so now the throttle can close all the way. It now idles at proper rpm
Still an issue is my unsteady idle. The culprit is the BOV. I can see it opening and closing moving the rpms up and down. Pinching the vacuum line does nothing so it is only repsonding to pressure in the J-pipe. Is this BOV just no good or what?
Because of this large leak the power is very touchy untill 2K rpm then it seems fine. But above 3K I think I need more fuel flow... so I'll install the turbo fuel pump. Maybe I should just run no BOV?!? I want my psssst!
Still an issue is my unsteady idle. The culprit is the BOV. I can see it opening and closing moving the rpms up and down. Pinching the vacuum line does nothing so it is only repsonding to pressure in the J-pipe. Is this BOV just no good or what?
Because of this large leak the power is very touchy untill 2K rpm then it seems fine. But above 3K I think I need more fuel flow...
so I'll install the turbo fuel pump. Maybe I should just run no BOV?!? I want my psssst!
07-10-2006, 08:47 PM
#268
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Originally Posted by Bleach
Maybe I should just run no BOV?!? I want my psssst!
http://www.takakaira.co.jp/accessori...ightpager.html
07-10-2006, 08:57 PM
#269
The Evil Twin
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oh wow, that's the solution I've been waiting for! electric BOV sound generator...
I plugged the BOV hole after removing it and the car idles great. It still pops out the intake if you press the pedal down too quickly but if you ease into it the car revvs up to 4K in neutral. I can hear the turbo spooling now and no BOV sound..
How can I be fast and furious without a real BOV?!
oh and then after letting the car idle for another 5 minutes it got to full temp and died. I couldn't get it started again and the engine now reaks of fuel... uuuhh... I'm glad I wasn't out away from the house
I plugged the BOV hole after removing it and the car idles great. It still pops out the intake if you press the pedal down too quickly but if you ease into it the car revvs up to 4K in neutral. I can hear the turbo spooling now and no BOV sound..
How can I be fast and furious without a real BOV?!
oh and then after letting the car idle for another 5 minutes it got to full temp and died. I couldn't get it started again and the engine now reaks of fuel... uuuhh... I'm glad I wasn't out away from the house
07-11-2006, 01:33 AM
#271
The Evil Twin
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I replaced the spark plugs with turbo plugs. I was using the ones from my NA before and they got fouled out. Not hot enough.
I'm pretty sure its too lean. I'll put the correct fuel pump in tomorrow.
I'm pretty sure its too lean. I'll put the correct fuel pump in tomorrow.
07-11-2006, 11:43 AM
#272
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This probably isn't the problem with the dying but I had a 1987 Grand Marquis with a busted thermostat (didn't know it at the time) and what was happening was the car would heat up to operating temperature and keep on going. The computer would shut the car down as a safety precaution to protect the motor.
Are you going soley by bits and pieces of information or did you happen about a book or huge article about how to do this swap? Im trying to decide if I'd just be better off searching for an actual turbo car somewhere else and making the drive to get it, or if the turbo swap is really worth it. Either way my 2+2 is a heavy bitch.
Are you going soley by bits and pieces of information or did you happen about a book or huge article about how to do this swap? Im trying to decide if I'd just be better off searching for an actual turbo car somewhere else and making the drive to get it, or if the turbo swap is really worth it. Either way my 2+2 is a heavy bitch.
07-11-2006, 08:01 PM
#275
The Evil Twin
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Installing the turbo fuel pump made no difference at all.
At one point I retarded the distributor all the way and it seemed to run great! Almost no popping and would rev right up to nearly 5K in neutral. (I didn't try to go any higher) so I let it idle a minute and shut the car off. I tightened down the two bolts at the base of the distributor and once I started it back up it was doing the same popping thing again and won't quit!
I swapped out the AFM for another one and it does the exact same thing. I tried unplugging the oxygen sensor to get it to run a little more rich and it does the same thing!!!
I am not a happy camper
At one point I retarded the distributor all the way and it seemed to run great! Almost no popping and would rev right up to nearly 5K in neutral. (I didn't try to go any higher) so I let it idle a minute and shut the car off. I tightened down the two bolts at the base of the distributor and once I started it back up it was doing the same popping thing again and won't quit!
I swapped out the AFM for another one and it does the exact same thing. I tried unplugging the oxygen sensor to get it to run a little more rich and it does the same thing!!!
I am not a happy camper
