280ZX (NA) to 280ZX Turbo swap
I love it! Bleach has a black engine bay and white engine accessories:


And I've got a white engine bay and black engine accessories:

Why do we have to live in a black and white world?! Why can't we all just git along?


And I've got a white engine bay and black engine accessories:

Why do we have to live in a black and white world?! Why can't we all just git along?
Originally Posted by SHADY280
cant wait to see this bleach, you better be bringing your rising sun hood on that thing!!!!

injection, fuel, and hoses hooked up...
I will clean the engine often. Guys, I cleaned and painted my truck engine. It stayed very clean except for the occasional oil leak by the manual fuel pump. Its not like I live in a really dirty environment. And once I get my Pulsar going the Z won't be my daily driver. Also, at that time when I intercool the engine I may take off some of that cold start junk. Or maybe I'll do that when I go with Megasquirt.... or maybe I'll just drop in an RB25DET 
The intake is clean but it is in a shadow under all the wiring and these pics are done in my garage with no flash. I think it will look more accurate out in the sun. The white is not quite that bright and the aluminum shows up better.

The intake is clean but it is in a shadow under all the wiring and these pics are done in my garage with no flash. I think it will look more accurate out in the sun. The white is not quite that bright and the aluminum shows up better.
Today I finished up more details. Hoses, wires, throttle linkage, and other stuff...
I hooked up the coil and wired it into the ECU harness which really only required ONE wire to be plugged in there. The main power and ground for the turbo coil wiring I just spliced from the NA coil's power and ground and then stuffed the NA harness into the fender.
...also, my tach works as I've heard some people who do this conversion end up with no tach signal.

then there was the oil cooler. Mounted it to the block

Cut a hole in the car

mounted the cooler. I checked for clearance from the tire while turned full lock. Its fairly close but should be fine. It has aboot 2 inches of clearace.


Oh, and then I started it up. It was 3:46am today and the garage door was closed. I had only half of a straight pipe exhaust and no radiator so I only ran it for a few seconds. It fired right up. When I tapped the throttle it died out but came back with no throttle pressed... I'll get to look into this more later. I need some sleep
I hooked up the coil and wired it into the ECU harness which really only required ONE wire to be plugged in there. The main power and ground for the turbo coil wiring I just spliced from the NA coil's power and ground and then stuffed the NA harness into the fender.
...also, my tach works as I've heard some people who do this conversion end up with no tach signal.
then there was the oil cooler. Mounted it to the block

Cut a hole in the car

mounted the cooler. I checked for clearance from the tire while turned full lock. Its fairly close but should be fine. It has aboot 2 inches of clearace.


Oh, and then I started it up. It was 3:46am today and the garage door was closed. I had only half of a straight pipe exhaust and no radiator so I only ran it for a few seconds. It fired right up. When I tapped the throttle it died out but came back with no throttle pressed... I'll get to look into this more later. I need some sleep
Nice work Bleach, glad everything is coming together for you bro'. I really do dig the black and white color scheme. Sick man, really friggin' tight. Yeah get some sleep, I am taking my girl to work. Then try and get some sleep, and tackle my fuel pump today. That would be nice, anyway keep us updated man.
hey nice going bleach man, love the aboot in there too. nice work with the oil cooler placement, i always wondered what we could do to get external oil filters and coolers to fit. what are those lines off of? they look real professional
Originally Posted by SHADY280
what are those lines off of? they look real professional
Originally Posted by NismoPick
Bleach, even though you blocked off the EGR & AAC ports, make sure you keep the actuators plugged into the wiring harness. It won't run very well w/o it.
Thanks for the reminder on the AAC activator. It was not plugged in earlier today when I started the car. I'll go find it and plug it in.
I just got up too... what a long day yesturday but I achieved my goal of starting the car. Now today I hope to get it all put togther enough to drive.
I think a 3/4" vacuum leak would be bad. Block it off.
I removed the EGR off the top and blocked it. I could never get that big pipe off the bottom end, even with the manifold in a vice and an SK socket with 18" breaker bar on it. I was afraid the manifold was going to crack... my vice was about to break off the table
I removed the EGR off the top and blocked it. I could never get that big pipe off the bottom end, even with the manifold in a vice and an SK socket with 18" breaker bar on it. I was afraid the manifold was going to crack... my vice was about to break off the table
Originally Posted by Bleach
I think a 3/4" vacuum leak would be bad. Block it off.
I removed the EGR off the top and blocked it. I could never get that big pipe off the bottom end, even with the manifold in a vice and an SK socket with 18" breaker bar on it. I was afraid the manifold was going to crack... my vice was about to break off the table
I removed the EGR off the top and blocked it. I could never get that big pipe off the bottom end, even with the manifold in a vice and an SK socket with 18" breaker bar on it. I was afraid the manifold was going to crack... my vice was about to break off the table
It runs like crap... the idle goes way up and down and I can't get on the throttle at all or it chokes out and backfires.... is this lean?
oh, and I forgot to swap in the turbo fuel pump. Will that make a difference right now?
oh, and I forgot to swap in the turbo fuel pump. Will that make a difference right now?
the pump wont make that kind of diff. yet, till you really need the power. this happened to my car when i built my motor, its your dizzy timing, and the oil pump shaft, try adjusting the timing and if it gets better one way then you may have to move the gear drive one tooth the opposite way of your adjustment.
ok, but there's very little adjustment available on a turbo engine. Remember, the turbo has a totally different distributor.
Anyway, for some reason its running way better since I check the TPS plug and some other stuff. I have an all stock 280ZX turbo in my yard (friend's car) so its awesome that I can compare them. So far EVERYTHING looks perfect how I set it up. All the blocked off stuff and where I ran the rest of the hoses is perfect.
ok, so I connected one more wire that says to hook to ignition on the ECU harness. Didn't really notice a difference but I'll leave it in place as it doesn't seem to hurt anything.
Ok, so right after the car starts, the green light goes off on the ECU. Is this correct?
Throttle seems to be a little sticky near idle. If I press down on it the idle goes down but is unsteady. The car idles great now and revs fine. (I didn't really change anything) but idles at 1800 rpm and seems to be always under boost. (stuck wastegate?) that BOV loves to go off with every litle flick of the throttle. NO more back fires though! that's good.
still not sure i'm going to take it for a drive though.
Question on the temp sensor: the Turbo EFI harness has a plug for the thermostat temp, but on the NA harness that temp plug is from the chassis harness. So my gauge does not register temp because I plugged in the turbo EFI harness to the thermostat housing. The stat did open up because all of a sudden the radiator is hot. Does the turbo ECU need the water temp signal from that spot or can I run my NA plug to the stat so my gauge works?
Anyway, for some reason its running way better since I check the TPS plug and some other stuff. I have an all stock 280ZX turbo in my yard (friend's car) so its awesome that I can compare them. So far EVERYTHING looks perfect how I set it up. All the blocked off stuff and where I ran the rest of the hoses is perfect.
ok, so I connected one more wire that says to hook to ignition on the ECU harness. Didn't really notice a difference but I'll leave it in place as it doesn't seem to hurt anything.
Ok, so right after the car starts, the green light goes off on the ECU. Is this correct?
Throttle seems to be a little sticky near idle. If I press down on it the idle goes down but is unsteady. The car idles great now and revs fine. (I didn't really change anything) but idles at 1800 rpm and seems to be always under boost. (stuck wastegate?) that BOV loves to go off with every litle flick of the throttle. NO more back fires though! that's good.
still not sure i'm going to take it for a drive though.Question on the temp sensor: the Turbo EFI harness has a plug for the thermostat temp, but on the NA harness that temp plug is from the chassis harness. So my gauge does not register temp because I plugged in the turbo EFI harness to the thermostat housing. The stat did open up because all of a sudden the radiator is hot. Does the turbo ECU need the water temp signal from that spot or can I run my NA plug to the stat so my gauge works?
Last edited by Bleach; Jul 9, 2006 at 08:36 PM.



