The stock 280zx n/a & turbo FPR does run on vacuum, but doesn't change when boosting... it talks about it in the Haynes manual... I'll scan that page & post it tonight.

 

ding ding ding!

Nismo wins the prize!

 

The FPR I wanted was over $200 and that one is $28 shipped! hmmm... no mention of it being a Rising Rate regulator or for use on turbo applications. I bet it is an NA only. This is the one I've had my eye on:
BEGI regulator

I guess I haven't really seen anyone run the stock regulator on a JSK rail. I wonder why it doesn't work decent. Maybe I'll get the cheap one now. I might have to buy a new radiator... there goes my paint job money a little bit at a time

 

ALL of the regulator like that will work for ether na or turbo . its $28 bucks but mine has worked awsome for over a year and it comes with everything you need cheap ...
just becauce it cost more doesnt mean it will last longer or do a better job ...
rizing rate fprs all work the same ..you set the the thing to the fuel setting you want it and as you rev it , it climbs to the right spot ..if under boost it climbs a little more ...weather your na or turbo ..these stlye regulator will do a good job.

i dont think the stock reg works well because it needs to let more fuel
from the jsk rail past it and back into the tank ..instead it pushes to much or to little beacuse of the bigger fuel amount inside the rail ...

this one is a little better more costly but a better there a a bunch listed most all will do the job great

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GREDY...QQcmdZViewItem

 

So this cheap FPR will work great with my JSK fuel rail? If so I might get it, and start moving forward, on reinstalling my JSK fuel rail.

 

See bleach . . . It tends to be the simplest thing. And dont worry about your paint. You got that kick *** rising sun. Just prime the rest of your Z and join the ranks

 

yes yes yes ..i have had mine for a year now and it works great

 

well you know rising rate only refers to the rate at which the fuel pressure raises, its good for ALL cars, they all use one, in different parmaters, if it doesnt raise, cause its stuck at the lowedt point, you mixture wont raise therefore leaning out your car, i bought a nice one for my car, it works great for tuning, and increases a total of 7psi, with different springs this total change can also vary. bleach has a pic of mine in his photos from canada. in the manual your supposed to be able to remove this line, and increase idle speed, when bleaches is removed, the idle does NOT increase, leading me to believe that this small over looked part could be part of the problem, use a vaccum pump to test as per the manual to be sure, or heck even suck on the hose. sometimes the diafram on these goes and pukes fuel straight into the manifold creating a massive rich condition as well

 

Shady is on it. Even though the stock FPR does allow for the pressure to rise, it's constrained by a narrow band of operation.

RR-FPR's designed for forced induction have a much wider band of operation allowing you to tune the pressure more specifically to your needs.

That's also why they're typically more expensive...

http://www.cartech.net/fmu2020.htm

 

I'm beginning to wonder if this is part of my problem as well. I just went out there and fired up my car. It's cold and rainy out, and the car was from a complete cold start. Anyway it fires up then sputters for a bit trying to find a place for the idle to rest at. It starts idling just under 1k RPMs. So I go out there and start messing with the FPR vaccum line. I pull it off and the car doesn't sound any different, I check the tach and RPMs haven't risen or anything. Put the vaccum line back on and nothing happens. The line looks a little beat up and like it might have a vaccum leak. So I'm gonna go pick up some new hose and see if that even helps me. The previous owner said he put a new one on, and from how shiny and new it looks I believe him. I think I have the receipt for it too. Is it possible this is bad, or maybe just a vaccum leak?

 

i would say vaccum leak at that point. do you have a vaccum guage and pump? its the best way to test for leaks, if not, use brake clean and spray the hoses, if there is a leak the engine will speed up, cause its getting fuel in the hoses.

 

When you pulled the hose off the pressure regulator that was during the time I still had massive vaccum leaks. Now that the leaks are fixed and the timing is correct it idles so much smoother and has much better low end power. (out of boost) I'll test it again. I have no fuel pressure gauge at the moment though.

 

Wreck-yo-self-before-ya-check-yaself! No wait.... Check yoself before ya wreck yoself!

You really need to get a fuel pressure gauge & a/f mix gauge... it will be a lot easier to diagnose the prob.

 

i keep saying...get a fuel pressure gauge...and do that vaccum leak test...cmon man get in gear!

 

Yeah dammit! Do it! Do it! Bacardi n cola... do it!

 

vaccum leaks are taken care of. I enriched the fuel mixture accross the entire powerband and that helped with the boost power so I know it is running too lean. Now I just need to find time to fix the problem. I have no money for gauges!!! The engine was supposed to be done at this point.

 

Low of $15.95 from http://www.SummitRacing.com and the price of a few additional fittings...

Don't you have an aftermarket fuel rail? I know the Pallnet rail has a fitting for a fuel pressure gauge...

 

yeah he does..all he needs to do is screw it in..i got one from summit too..

 

Do we need to take up a collection? Everyone on the forum donate 25 cents to Bleach's fuel pressure gauge fund raiser?!

 

shipping probably starts at $10. I might as well see if i can buy one off the shelf for $25 or less. A/F gauge, $59, Boost gauge $59 ....

 

I agree that I probably need to get these gauges, but in a lot of cases I can generally rent them from places so it more a question of is it worth the money.

 

for myself, i want to be running all those gauges eventually... so if I buy them its not a waste of money. In fact, I'm looking for a 5 gauge pillar pod and a 4 gauge horizontal pod for the middle of my dash. and some stickers, lots of stickers...

 

That's not a bad idea. I wouldn't mind running them, but it's also one of those things where I'd much rather spend the money on getting the car running well before the gauges, but in some situations the gauge alone might help me to the point I won't have to spend as much on parts because I'll be able to more pinpoint the problem.

 

What is this... a school for ants!?

These gauges aren't hundreds or thousands of dollars... eat a PB & J sandwich instead of McDonalds this week & wa-la! Moneys for the gauges!

a/f gauges:
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...ku&RC=10#rstop

fuel pressure gauges:
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...4294925228+115

 

does AF gauge work with the stock O2, dont you need wideband to actualy monitor anything worth ****?