280ZX (NA) to 280ZX Turbo swap
11-21-2005, 01:18 PM
#76
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Temecula, CA
Posts: 5,485
Originally Posted by Bleach
Hopefully I have no leaks. If I do I can either fix them or do a quick degrease before I go to a show.
And I agree with you. Unless you live off a dirt road as long as you have an underpan you should be able to keep most of the dirt off of it. Most of these 'nasty' engines have 20+ years of gunk on them. And most of the engines gaskets are just as old. A freshly cleaned and rebuilt motor is going to need another 20+ to get back to that kind of nasty. And with regular cleaning what does accumulate can be easily cleaned. And cleaning off fresh dirt is as easy as running a hose over it or a quick wipe job. Plus having a clean, white engine would probably impress a little more at car shows then a darker color. That JMO though
11-24-2005, 02:52 PM
#80
The Evil Twin
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 9,294
Yup! Thanks for the tip Mr. Pick. I decided to confirm this since I had everything apart. The lighter weight one looked new anyway. No visable wear or damage. However, when I install the new guides, tensioner, and chain I did get slightly less slack in the chain. The tensioner is pressed back against its resting point as it should be with a new timing set. It used to have just a tiny bit of movement before.
New timing set installed, more coats of paint on some items, oil pan cleaned up good and drying. (will paint next) Front cover cleaned. That's it for now!
New timing set installed, more coats of paint on some items, oil pan cleaned up good and drying. (will paint next) Front cover cleaned. That's it for now!
Last edited by Bleach; 11-24-2005 at 03:08 PM.
11-24-2005, 03:28 PM
#81
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Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Saskatoon, SK
Posts: 2,893
good stuff Bleachy....man im suprised my car ran at all before...when i took the engine apart...the tensioner plastic was worn and chain chewed about 1/8" into the metal !!!! eeegh....
now how come i look at timing kits from local parts stores and its like ~100 bucks lets say...but you go to courtesy parts . com its like 80 bucks just for the chain?!!!!
anyways good progress...
now how come i look at timing kits from local parts stores and its like ~100 bucks lets say...but you go to courtesy parts . com its like 80 bucks just for the chain?!!!!
anyways good progress...
11-27-2005, 04:07 PM
#87
Ruff Ryder
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: palm desert
Posts: 6,140
Originally Posted by Bleach
The cast sprocket on the left weighs in at 1.25 lbs. The 'other' one on the right is only 7/8 lbs. I reused the lighter weight sprocket and installed the rest of the timing set new.
11-27-2005, 06:21 PM
#89
The Evil Twin
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 9,294
The sprockets made in Taiwan do not have the holes right above each "number" on the wheel. When you time your cam with #2 or 3 position you can't see the mark on the cam tower to verify correct timing. The sprocket on the left is Japan made just like OEM Nissan.
11-29-2005, 10:18 AM
#91
The Evil Twin
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 9,294
Originally Posted by hoov100zx
i also have the one on the right, but does anyone have a clue who sells them?
Nissan part number 13024-21000
Nissanparts.cc lists it as available for $55.00
12-05-2005, 09:01 AM
#94
The Evil Twin
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 9,294
Water inlet, engine mounts, crankcase vent, oil pump, and some other junk are now installed.
The water line and fuel hose mount that I made are painted but not pictured. I got the intak manifold off the turbo engine on the floor and cleaned up. (that took a while) Next the JSK rail goes on along with new air hoses and fuel lines on the manifold.
That AAC valve look useless. I'm going to block it off.
Oh, I finished painting the oil pan as well.
No wonder this other turbo engine had an exhaust leak. Every single exhaust manifold bolt was fairly loose... hmmm...
I also cleaned up the surface of the water pump pully mount for LWW.
The water line and fuel hose mount that I made are painted but not pictured. I got the intak manifold off the turbo engine on the floor and cleaned up. (that took a while) Next the JSK rail goes on along with new air hoses and fuel lines on the manifold.
That AAC valve look useless. I'm going to block it off.
Oh, I finished painting the oil pan as well.
No wonder this other turbo engine had an exhaust leak. Every single exhaust manifold bolt was fairly loose... hmmm...
I also cleaned up the surface of the water pump pully mount for LWW.
Last edited by Bleach; 12-05-2005 at 09:04 AM.
12-05-2005, 10:37 AM
#97
Originally Posted by Bleach
That AAC valve look useless. I'm going to block it off.
12-05-2005, 10:46 AM
#98
The Evil Twin
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 9,294
I will stare at the oil on my white engine and fear will drive the dirty mess away.
I was wondering if unplugging that unit would have any ill effects. I didn't read anything about the AAC unit on the L28 Turbo to 240Z swap page that I have saved. hmmm.... so do you just keep the unit plugged into the wiring harness but just not hook up any of the vacuum lines?
I was wondering if unplugging that unit would have any ill effects. I didn't read anything about the AAC unit on the L28 Turbo to 240Z swap page that I have saved. hmmm.... so do you just keep the unit plugged into the wiring harness but just not hook up any of the vacuum lines?
12-05-2005, 12:10 PM
#99
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Temecula, CA
Posts: 5,485
That's probably the easiest way to do it bleach. You could probably install a resistor or voltage regulator in it's place in the wiring harness and that would give the ECU the false sense that it's still there. Without knowing what signal voltage/resistance though I couldn't tell you exactly what you need. You could always mess around with it though.
