Ok, which one's did you get?

 

I ordered AutoMeter gauges off of Summit's website. and some Summit brand 0-60psi fuel pressure gauge.

30-0-20 vac/boost - and the A/F gauge... you know... the one with the pretty lights

 

ok Kevin, that JSK I sold ya will work with a pressure guage, my ZX had a vac/boost under the hood, helped with diagnostics so 2 may be an option...

 

..i have bought mass **** from EBAY and everything i have gotten has worked in tip top shape ..and lasted along time ...
just becuase Name Brand made it doesnt make it good ..alot off this **** is made at the same places then bullshit names are slaped on them , when its all the same crap anyway.
or the whole well its $20 bucks so it ant any good ..iam going to buy the
$200 dollar one its sad to see ....the NO Name bands work better then the Name brands ...
just becuase it cost more doesnt mean they made it any better , they just like to make u think it is ..

 

I don't disagree, but the problem is when it's NOT made by the same company and it's a component critical to the 'survival' of my engine.

I can't go down to the JY and pick up a replacment engine for my car. So, I'm not willing to take the chance anymore.

I used to do the same thing you've been doing. JC Whitney used to have entire sections for the 280ZX back in the 80's and the stuff was WAY cheaper because they didn't advertise the brand name because they could change their supplier whenever they wanted.

I bought my first Weber 60mm Big Throat TB from JC Whitney for $120 when they were selling for nearly $300 everywhere else.

The problem was, I didn't know it was a Weber until it showed up and I opened the box.

I knew it was a gamble, but I also didn't know of anyone else manufacturing a bolt-on 60mm TB for the 280ZX so I was pretty sure it was going to be a Weber.

Now, so much stuff is made in the far east, some farther east than others, that I'm just not willing to take the chance on something that could smoke my engine. Like a boost gauge that reads 12 psi when it's really at 16 psi.

Or an A/F gauge that reads 12:1 when it's really 14:1 or vice versa.

Most people don't install these and then compare/calibrate it against a known good gauge, so you're pretty much taking it on faith that the guy that rode his bicycle 37 miles from his family rice paddy to the 'factory' in the city to assemble these ill fitting parts for 50 cents a day actually has the precision equipment to ensure the part is properly calibrated...

 

Preach it lww . . . .i just wish i had the scrill to be like you.

 

Wow, awesome work you've done there Bleach...congrats dude!

 

i hear you IWW .that is why i bought smi good gauges there sunpro ..
momma would if i wasted money ..its just the way of the penny pincher

 

Agree wholeheartedly.

 

I got my gauges off the shelf at WalMart. They're APZ brand, only $4.99 each

 

If AFR is so critical to gauge, why is everyone depending on a narrow band 02 and getting narrow band gauges? It doesn't matter how accurate the gauge is if the source is flawed.

 

Hum... $40 or $300-$500 for basic tuning... which sounds cheaper??? Narrow band O2's aren't "flawed." Those O2 sensors & a/f gauges work fine for basic tuning. Once you get into racing & fine tuning, then a Wide band becomes more desirable, as it's more precise & acurate.

So if you want to spend $400, when you can spend $40... no one is stopping you.

 

I got my gauges. They're looking good in the box. Both are silver face which is perfect to go with my silver overlays that I still have not installed.

My autometer A/F gauge was $55. The boost gauge was $45, fuel psi $17

 

I already have

 

LoL... well, I guess that sums it up. Was it worth the $400?

 

Absolutly. It was probably the best purchase I've made for the car. Narrow band will let you know if your rich or lean but it's range is only 14.0:1 to 15.0:1 so it really only measures if you're at stoic. This is fine for general tuning like you said but your engine should make peak power closer to 12.5:1. So if you really want to fine tune your car a wideband is a must.

For $350, not only can I log AFR, but i can log 6 more inputs so I can graph RPM versus, AFR, Manifold pressure, throttle postion, injector duty cycle, engine temp, intake air temp, etc.

Rather then spend hundreds of dollars on dyno tuning time, I can pretty much have unlimited tuning sessions with this setup.

 

I assume you're not running the crappy original 280ZX ecu like me. I can't tune crap with this thing

 

Hows the 240 Veyenyl? I saw you and it last at freakmont.

 

Bleach - You are correct. I'm running SDS EM-3F. With your setup, your pretty much limited to adjusting fuel pressure so the narrow band will get you in the ballpark. I would tune it to read slightly rich just to be safe.

Apollo - The car is running great. Just been working out some minor tuning issues and fixed my tranny leak. It's been too damn hot to get any real work done. Once I get a decent tune I'm happy with, I'll take it to the dyno to get a baseline run then do more tweaking. Should be ready to take to the track after that.

 

I leave for one day to go help a friend on his Datsun and my friend gets banned and my other thread is closed!

well, I'll do some work on my car today. I appriciated all the suggestions. I was not being sarcastic in my responses. A boost leak in the J-pipe or an AFM problem seems to be my next step to check. And yes I'll do a pressure check on the whole intake system. My friend is putting together something that attaches to the front of the AFM so it will pressurize the entire intake.

 

Yeah, things got a little sideways in your other thread. Your "Friend" pretty much decided to go to war with everyone in the forum. I tried to add some helpfull input, and so did many others but appearantly, we are all "newbie morons".

"Sorry We had a fight in the middle of your black panther party"

We should all just go home to GREENBOW ALABAMA!

Rod.

 

The AFM on the parts car is a remanufactured one. It is super clean inside and out. I swapped the AFM and it made almost no difference. I then swapped the ECU. No change.

I need to pressurize the intake now to check for leaks.

 

YES! he is doing it finaly!!!

 

How does one pressurize the intake to check for leaks?

 

well you need to take your airfilter off...then use something in a shape of a puck with an airhose attachment screwed into it so it goes trough it. Then you plug that into the intake and clamp it on good and put in about 7psi of air, its good to have a gauge on there too so you dont over do it and blow a gasket or seal somwheres, but it takes a while to pressurise so you have time to turn it down if your valve was cranked open...here is a good site and instructions and pretty much what it looks like. I made my own, they arent that hard to make...

http://www.boostpro.net/prodtester.html

here is the one I made....there is a regulator at the aircompressor and on here in the pic to make sure...and i was watching hes boost gauge not to put in too much air in...