Car just quit and now won't start!! HELP!!!
#1
Car just quit and now won't start!! HELP!!!
Hey i was driving my car went around a corner and i just quits. At first i thought i was out of gas but that wasn't it, so we thought it might have been the timming but it wasn't, so we checked the ignition and we weren't getting a spark so i took the ignition coil to autozone, they tested it, and they said it was no good. So i ordered one, put it on yesterday and it still won't start. I'm still going to check a few ignition things but please help. When the car quit it just quit no clunks or bangs fyi.
#3
my general advice
Get your battery load tested. Be sure you have clean, tight corrosion free terminals on both ends of your battery cables. Be sure the ground (negative) cable goes to a bolt into the frame before going to the starter. grounding through the starter is not a reliable connection. Z's don't like low voltage. causes the electronics to act funny. it is possible to have enough amps to crank but not enough voltage to run the electronics. If you have one size fit all cheapo clamp on terminals they are a problem waiting to happen.
Clean the connectors for the maf, ecu and tps. Deoxit by CAIG is probably the best connector cleaner on the market. spray with CorrosionX after cleaning and before putting together this will help prevent any further corrosion.
Get your battery load tested. Be sure you have clean, tight corrosion free terminals on both ends of your battery cables. Be sure the ground (negative) cable goes to a bolt into the frame before going to the starter. grounding through the starter is not a reliable connection. Z's don't like low voltage. causes the electronics to act funny. it is possible to have enough amps to crank but not enough voltage to run the electronics. If you have one size fit all cheapo clamp on terminals they are a problem waiting to happen.
Clean the connectors for the maf, ecu and tps. Deoxit by CAIG is probably the best connector cleaner on the market. spray with CorrosionX after cleaning and before putting together this will help prevent any further corrosion.
#7
tps equal throttle position sensor. you don't get power to the dizzy cap you get high voltage which should then go to the sparking thingys. if that be the problem a rotor would be a nice thing to have. like i said lots of things on the z31 depend on your battery and cables being in A one condition. if you refuse to investigate that then why are you posting. download the fsm from xenon. THEN READ IT.
#8
Ok i did check the battery and the voltage is fine. But but what would be the battery wires and clamps i need? Do you mean like crimp styled clamps? One thing we thought could be a problem in the distributor theres like a metal disc and it has like a little black lip over it, i was wondering if something could have happened to the black lip part?
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