Okay...now I have another question. When you removed your timing cover. Did you have to remove the oil pan? Because in my book, it is saying I need to. Get back to me when you can. Because if I don't need to remove it. It will save me some considerable amount of time.

 

All in all...I appreciate all the support, and feedback everybody has giving me. During this long grueling process. Keep the suggestions coming. And I will keep you all updated as I progress. Thanks a bunch!

Well back outside to tackle it again. Let you know what happens.

 

I didnt remove it. I just removed the bolts on the pan there where holding the front cover down. Just make sure to put a little rtv on the gasket before you put the timing cover back on.

 

Cool good to hear. And I am going to start taking it apart this coming week. I really think something is hung up down below. Maybe the chain is off a tooth. Or the tensioner is not giving me the slack I need. Which would explain the 1/16th of an inch that I need, that I can't seem to get. With that thought, I will probably find out here soon enough. I will keep you all posted. Thanks again for the help.

Oh, and yes I know putting some goop (RTV) before I put it back together. Thanks for the tip. But I do have more sense than you think.

 

Allright success!! I got the timing cover off, and the chain back on. Bad thing is, I missed a bottom corner bolt on the cover. And screwed it up. (Broke the bottom left corner of the cover) So I am going to take the cover off another engine I have lying around.

A couple quick questions. One: How do I put the oil pump back on, to match the distributor? Two: Did I put the tensioner back on correctly? It was a pain in the a$$. But it does seem to be working right. So I would think it is on right. Anyway, I will post pics when I get a chance. Going to crash here soon. I'll keep you all posted.

 

Setting the oil pump/distributor shaft is a pita. To set it is fairly simple: pull the valve cover and make sure the first cylinder is at TDC (Top Dead Center). Once the engine is at TDC, drop the oil pump and distributor shaft (if it isn't already out, I didn't read the full thread) and pull the distributor as well. You will see matching punch marks on both the distributor shaft and oil pump. Line the punch marks up, and carefully seat the shaft and oil pump into the front cover. Bolt the oil pump up, and then bolt the distributor back up. You may have to wiggle the rotor in the distributor to get it to seat onto the shaft correctly. The distributor will only sit on the shaft in one position.

Good luck!

 

^ Ok cool, thanks man. Yeah the distributor, and oil pump, along with the cover are already out. I had to reset the timing chain. Anyway here are a couple of new pics with the chain on. I just hope I put the tensioner on the right way. The book doesn't really show it in detail too well. Because it was not on right, when I took the cover off. That was the whole reason, I had to do all this.

 

if the pointed wedge shape is pointing down then its on right. and I'm trying to find a pic of putting the dizzy/oil pump in right.

 

Awesome, then I put that on right. It seemed the only way it would fit on there. So I was hoping so. Anyway, yeah that pic would be great. I want to make sure I get it all right the first time. I don't really want to take it apart again.

 

I cant find a pic, but pages em-16 and em-17 of the 1980 FMS have pictures about how to put the oil pump and shaft in at the right timing.

 

That's okay man. Yeah I have a FSM for the '81, 82, '83. I am sure it will probably be on the same pages. Thanks for the information. I'll check it out, when I get a chance.

 

Yeah it describes how to set the shaft for the distributor, and oil pump. Going to start piecing it back together on Saturday. Will keep you all posted. Hopefully I will have it mostly together. And possibly running by next weekend. And thanks to all that have posted, and shared their knowledge.

Anyway I now know, what my future permanent wheels will likely be. I want 8" wide on the front, and 10" wide on the back. What kind of wheels can I find with the 4 bolt lug pattern? Any information on this, would be greatly appreciated.

 

Looks like, I will have to stick to 8" wide wheels. I don't think there is any company making 10" wide for the original 4 lug pattern.

Anyway I mostly got the timing cover back on. I have the timing mark, and bolts in. And also the bottom ones attached to the oil pan. That will hold it for now, until I get everything back together. Still have to gather up all the bolts, and put the puzzle back the way it was. lol I will work on it, this coming week. A little each day, after dropping my wife off at work. Then catching more sleep for my job. I will keep you posted. I hope the next coming weekend. I can at least hear him run.

 

diamond racing wheels dude. any size, backspacing, bolt pattern you want.

what diameter are you looking foar?

if you want MEATS in 10" wide, I wouldn't reccomend anything less than 16"...

 

Thanks, I'll look into those. I think I am probably just going to stick to 8" wide all around. I just don't know what size will work, and give me a wider shorter tire look.

Well, the Z hasn't been touched in a week. I am just unmotivated, and burned out. I don't know why, but I am lazy. I do have a longer weekend. So hopefully I will feel like tackling it Monday. We will see.

 

Well I did get some stuff done on the Z today. I have the timing cover, and water pump back on. Just need to install the front seal, then the harmonic balancer, and pulley. Put the alternator back on. Fan and pulley, then the manifolds, and so on... If I keep at it a little each day this week. I should have it at least running by next weekend. I will keep you posted.

 

Don't forget about the Rota RB-R 9.5 x 17 -19mm..... group buy on the Hybrid page....




more pics....

 

^ Very nice man, those do look good. But I really don't want to put that big of a wheel on my Z. Also the price of tires would be really expensive to boot. Thanks for the information man. But the absolute biggest wheel I would put on my Z, would be 16" Otherwise I mostly prefer 15".

 

To each their own - 14/15" tires have so much side wall they look like truck tires.... in fact the 14" has the same side wall ratio as most trucks (70). The tire diameter is exactly the same (0.12% difference) between my stock 205/70/14 and my front 235/45/17 and 1% with the 255/40/17 so they are the same size in that regard.

For a 235/45/17 tire you won't get a better bang for your buck than the following:

Hancook Ventus V12 - $100
Kumho Ecsta - $111
Yokohama S-Drive - $113

Cheaper tires aren't going to be much cheaper than that and the performance drops off exponentially.

Don't forget that unless you are keeping the stock tire size it's very difficult to get anything in a 14/15/16" and even 17" are getting more difficult to get performance tires in.

 

^ I can still get performance tires for 15" locally. Whether it be Pirelli, Yokohama, Bf Goodrich etc... In the size I want. Which will still probably be 205 60 r15. And the price installed with warranty for all four is under $500.

Like I said, I do appreciate you sharing the information with me. I am just not a big wheel kind of person. I like more tire on my wheels.

 

If you're gonna go with 8" wide wheels, the 205's will be a slight stretch...

Falken has Ziex ZE512's in 225/50-15 which won't be any stretch whatsoever on an 8, and will look better than 205/60's (slightly shorter, but not enough to make any real difference) And are $70 a pop from DTD lol

 

Thanks, I will keep it in mind. Is DTD Discount Tire? Or another place? Anyway, will be a while yet. I still need to get it running. And then the springs and struts. One thing at a time, just doing a little planning ahead.

 

close lol Discount Tire Direct (they ship the tires to your place and you take em to the shop to get mounted and balanced and whatnot) Buying it from a dealiership usually means it's a couple bucks moar per tire, it's up to you lol

http://discounttiredirect.com/

 

Thanks, I'll look into it.

Anyway got some more work done on the Z today. The oil pan bolts are back in. Also the front seal with harmonic balancer and pulley are back on. Put the valve cover with gasket on the head. Also got the collector pipe for my header off my T-top. And the front stock exhaust pipe off my slicktop.

So to make it easier on myself. I ordered brand new intake and exhaust manifold bolts, with the thick spacers from the Z store. Will save me alot more time. And it is a good idea anyway. I am getting there, still another weekend yet. Just is very time consuming. lol But I am knocking things out. I may work on it tomorrow some. But I will for sure work on it during this coming week. More to come. As I slowly piece this Z back together. And give him the glory of the road. That he deserves.

 

Update! My brother came over, and we spent a few hours on my Z earlier tonight. I got to hear him turn over! The engine sounds healthy. Just still need to adjust a few more things. I goofed, and forgot about the CHTS, and the O2 sensor. So by the time, I figured that out, after cranking. I had too much fuel on the ground, and outside the engine. So it was dangerous to try and fire it up with straight header, and fuel all over.

So I called it a night. And will tackle it again this week. Should be up and running. And then I will take my Z to my parents, next Saturday afternoon. And my brother will help me with the ball joints, and front end. I'll keep you all posted. Wish me luck.