Still can't get it started. But that's okay, I have a lot of patience. I need to address a badly leaking injector. So I am going to take the fuel rail back off. And replace it with another one I have. And while I am at it. Shorten the hoses on the injectors, so the rail will sit further down. And not be hitting the brake booster line. More to come.

 

Still haven't been able to get it started. And I also need to cut the fuel injector lines shorter. So I can mount the fuel rail a little lower. The big problem I am running into. Is the fitting on the side of the rail, for the cold start valve. It hits the air regulator line. So either, I need to plug that hole, and drill a new one. Find a fitting a little shorter. Or dig up my other fuel rail I have. Not sure what to do yet. I couldn't do much today, because of a dust storm blowing crap in my eyes, and heavy winds. Will try to do more with it tomorrow. I can't wait to hear a Z run again.

 

A little update, and a question. I am thinking about getting this aftermarket fuel pressure regulator. Yeah I know it's purple. lol But I am putting a little purple here and there for my theme. But of course the main reason being it is the cheapest one on ebay at the moment.

The big reason I am doing this. Is because I am having an issue with my JSK rail. The cold start valve fitting is smacking the air regulator line coming from the heater hoses. So I would have to either eliminate that line. Or seal where the fitting is. And drill a new hole. So since I am planning on the JSK being put on my turbo conversion later on. I decided to use the other cleaner, smoother rail I got a few years back.

So here is my question. Which would be fuel in and which would be fuel out? I tried working with one of these before. And could never get it to work right. So any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Also I will update with more progress on the Z. Getting ready to go out, and wrench on it some more.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT

 

So no one has any idea which is in and which is out? It would be very helpful. As said before....I would appreciate any insight anybody can give me.

As for the Z, still haven't been able to start it yet. Still something not right. And of course still dealing with a fuel leak. I did put the other CHTS back on. Because I am pretty sure the other one is damaged. So maybe my distributor is still not quite in the right spot? Any tips would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again in advance.

 

I have no idea on the FPR....

But as for the no start, as Nismo would say, you need fuel air and spark. Pull a plug and make sure it is sparking, I'd try to fix the fuel leak so your fuel pressure is good then make sure the injectors are all hooked up right and your ECU is fine. Then make sure your AFM is working properly and hooked up. Then just to check, adjust your valves to the cold specs and run a compression test. Also make sure you have no vac leaks.

If one of those thigns doesnt turn up bad, then its time to start looking for damaged parts.

 

Thanks for the response. I still think I might have the plug wires on the wrong spots on the distributor cap. It seems the first night over 2 weeks ago. When my brother was over helping. Then it sounded like it was close to starting. We had to stop, because of the fuel leaking near the header. Then I thought maybe the wires were in the wrong spot. So I moved them. For some reason, I can't find the firing order in my manual. Which is quite annoying and frustrating. I need the firing order for the wires on the cap. That would be quite helpful. Could be what is going on.

Oh, I am pretty sure the valves are fine. I bought the cylinder head professionally rebuilt. So everything should be set right on it.

As for the fuel leaks. I will attend to them. All I want to do is be able to run it for a few seconds. Then I will proceed with fixing everything else. As well as, putting the radiator, and coolant in the car. Because once I hear it run. I know the engine and head are good. As well as my timing of the oil pump, and distributor. I will put the rest back together. And finish dialing in all the components in the car.

 

Unless their hydraulic I'd just them anyways just to be better safe then sorry.

firing order is 1 5 3 6 2 4 clockwise. #1 is marked on the cap (or should be) and it should be pointing forward to the front of the car. and then the #1 plug is the closest to the radiator.

 

Well the big thing with the valves is...I don't have the gauges to do it. Plus, I really don't want to mess with the procedure. Because if I screw it up. I am out of the money I spent on the head. Meaning...I would probably have get it rebuilt again. I don't really want to go through that. Nor, do I have the extra money to do it. We are really tight right now. And I am trying to get the Z running. So we can give our one car (Neon) a break.

Anyway, just to let you know. It is counter-clockwise, with 1-5-3-6-2-4. Just so you know, I did look in the manual. Also I did know that part. The thing I wasn't sure of, was where #1 goes on the distributor cap. I couldn't find it in my FSM anywhere. So, does it go where the 1 is marked inside the cap? Just want to make sure. Oh, and hopefully you didn't put your firing order clockwise. That could cause all kinds of misfire issues. And poor running.

Not trying to show you up. Or put you down. I just wanted to clarify, that you posted the wrong sequence of the firing order direction. And thanks for the responses. I do appreciate it.

 

Ah I see alright.

Er....My bad lol And Usually theres a 1 marked on the top of the cap but if not I always remember it by the fact its the one closest to point to the very from of the Z

And its fine! And I also dont have mine hooked up wrong lol

 

Cool, yeah it's all hooked up right. When I get a chance. I will check for spark. After I try to start it again, with the distributor more retarded. Like I said...all I need is a few seconds of hearing it run. Then I know it's good. And I can proceed with getting everything together. And fix things that need attention. The anticipation is killing me. lol

Probably wont work on it today. Too tired, will try tomorrow. Thanks again.

 

Here are some more pics of my progress. A couple header pics, and intake as well.



Engine bay, and frontal views.


A couple of body pics. (First 3 being older, and the 4th pic just yesterday.)



And these 2 just taken yesterday. I pretty much have the fuel rail on, with aftermarket regulator. I had to guess which line was in, and which was out. Since nobody told me. Hopefully when I try to start it tomorrow. It will be flowing the fuel correctly.



Enjoy, and feel free to comment. I am pretty close to having this Z running. I am trying my best to make it happen.

 

And here are the other 2, because of the 10 picture limit per post. Let me know, and share your input. I like to hear it, and or read it.

 

Okay....I tried starting it again today. Wont catch, doing different things. I noticed the fuel pressure regulator was not getting pressure. So I thought, maybe it was hooked wrong. So I switched the fuel lines. And now it has pressure. So would that say, I have it hooked up right now? Checked for spark, getting it at all 6 cylinders. I am sure I am getting air. Not sure what else it could be.

I am really stumped, takes me back to the old days. When I had trouble starting my other Z. It has been many months since I have had a Z running. Technically over a year. So any feedback or help would be much appreciated. I am going to clean all the connections, and such. Check fuses, fusible links, ECU. And see if that helps. Otherwise, it will go beyond what I know. Feel free to help a Z guy out. Thanks in advance.

 

Oh, also is the #1 spark plug wire, supposed to be where the 1 is marked inside the cap? Just want to verify that. Because I couldn't find it in my manuals. Also, do you think I should try and put the old regulator back on? Since I know I am getting pressure. Maybe it is just finicky with that aftermarket regulator. Anyway, and feedback is greatly appreciated. Going to crash for a while, and go to work.

 

From looking at your pics, the #1 wire is on the wrong part of the cap (unless you have your timing WAY out) the wires need to be one cap over in the clockwise direction. cuz it needs to be pointing to the very front of the car on the cap.

And it wouldn't hurt to try using the oem regulator to entirely rule out fuel. btw are the injectors even getting power?

 

^ Dude you just saved me a lot of headache! I had a weird feeling, that the wires were in the wrong spot. And I started to remember, that the number 1 wire, is just above where the front tab is on the cap. That could make a huge difference.

As for the injectors getting a signal. Not sure, I will try and find my injector plug tester, and see. (I don't remember what is really called at the moment. lol) Or can I use a multimeter? If so, what are they supposed to be reading? And what should I set the meter too? DC, AC etc..?

On the regulator....If after the Z doesn't start after putting the wires, on the proper place on the cap. And doing a few more checks on sensors and such. I will swap it back out with the stock one. Although, I wont have a pressure gauge to read off of. But I am sure I am getting pressure. Because it didn't read any, until I switched the in and out fuel lines on the regulator. Then after that, I saw the needle move up. When I was cranking the car over.

Thanks for your help, it is much appreciated. Also, I am having my brother come over this Saturday. And help me more with my Z. Maybe I will have it running before then. And he can help me with my ball joints, and front suspension. It is wishful thinking. Anyway, will keep you posted.

 

lol I'm sure I told you before but ah well.

Uh you can test the power to the injectors with a volt meter, they should be getting +12v DC (AC is what houses use) on one pin and nothing on the other when grounding to the manifold with the - side of the volt meter. If your not getting that (key on btw) Check your EFI relay and the dropping resistors along with your fuseable links. Its called a noid light btw lol

idk if the EFI bible will work with an 82 but it might not hurt to go look at it. I did an ohm/volt test though the main ECU plug that way before and that would point you right to whats wrong as I'm thinking it fuel related.

And as long as your getting pressure to the injectors over like 25PSI (which is really low) the car should "run" lol

Um just to ask, you do have the control unit of the distributor hooked up along with the AFM, O2(if you have one) and coil right? along with no major vacuum leaks right?

 

^ Okay...found the noid light, and all the injectors are getting power. I put all the wires back where they belong. And cranked away. A couple of times, the engine practically ceased. Because of too much fuel in the cylinders. So..I am getting spark, and fuel. So it either is an air or a timing problem. Oh, also I put the stock regulator back on. Although I know it hasn't made a bit of difference. Hopefully my brother, can help me get it running tomorrow. It is quite frustrating to get this far. And not hear my Z run. Anyway, will let you know what happened. And thanks again man.

 

I hope it never tried to seize up on you. You shouldn't be getting THAT much fuel in the engine unless an injector locked open.... Take a flash light and look inside the sparkplug holes at the piston tops if you can. make sure theres no valve marks.

Crank pulley at 0*, both #1 Lobes pointing up (well more like a V but you get what I mean) and the rotor inside the dizzy is pointing at the #1 Wire. If thats all correct then you have your timing where it should "run" Next make sure you have compression. Then finally if the first 2 are fine. start looking into the EFI system.

Also make sure all sensors are hooked up and working correctly. Other then that idk....

 

Yes after grueling months and long hours of tedious tinkering. I got to hear my Z run for 2 to 3 seconds today. That is what I needed to hear. Now I will start putting the engine bay back together. Amongst other things.

Now, I have something else wrong. Can anybody help figure out, why it is dumping a ton of fuel in the cylinders? Like a continuous flow of fuel? I have been trying to figure out, why it is doing it. The only way I could get it to run. Was to unplug the injectors, and run it with starting fluid. So any tips, hints, or information. Why it is dumping fuel, will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Also, I am going to let the cylinders air out overnight. And give it another try tomorrow. And see if it will run a little bit longer. Maybe 5 seconds would work. After that, I will proceed with getting things back together and hooked up. Anyway, will keep you all posted. And keep those tips, and help coming.

 

Could be one (or more) of 3 things. Shorted CHT, Shorted AFM, or Fried ECU. that about it...

 

Okay, what should the voltage be on the CHTS, and AFM? I'm thinking also, about switching the ECU's back. After doing that, I will have the original one back in the slicktop. I changed them over 2 years ago. Doing process of elimination, troubleshooting a running issue on my T-top. Thanks for the tips. Will try and start it again a little later today. Maybe I will get my 5 seconds or so, of running time. lol I'll keep you all posted. Thanks again.

 

http://xenons130.com/files/1980%20EFI%20Bible.pdf

While that is for the 78Z, 79ZX, and 80ZX its something good to read the works generally well on all Zs that have EFI Tho I really don't know if the ohm test has changed or not thought the harness it should generally be the same on the ohms testing the unit itself.

Oh and make sure the breather port ontop of the valve cover is hooked to where it needs to go, that can make a HUGE vacuum leak which makes it hard for the car to start.

 

^ Thanks again man, for the input. Will look into it.

Okay, tried to start it again, and it ran almost 15 seconds! On all 6 cylinders. Anyway, still have a problem with it firing, even having the fuel pump unplugged. And running with only starting fluid. Still something not right somewhere. All I know is. The engine is good, and timed, and ready. Going to put it back together this week. And then try to figure out why it dumps fuel like mad. I am just happy, that it ran, and strong. Lots of life left in this engine.

So you test the parts in ohms? Okay, that changes some things. I will go through everything again. After I get it back together. I will keep you all posted, as always.

 

Well....got the alternator hooked back up, and the a/c compressor partially. I am slowly, little by little. Getting it put back together again. Should have everything hooked up by this Saturday. Then I can trouble shoot, the fuel dumping problem. I'll keep you posted.