280ZX (NA) to 280ZX Turbo swap
11-14-2005, 01:36 PM
#51
Originally Posted by Bleach
If this module changes the fuel pump speed or something, then if I do decide to hook the pump up to just an on/off relay am I missing anything performance wise or just safety-wise? (safety as in, if the car is wrecked, the fuel pump will stay on)
The three white wires going from the EFI harness into the firewall behind the battery are just for power, right?
...
I'm going to check eventually, but is there any diffrence in the turbo and NA fuse panel?
The three white wires going from the EFI harness into the firewall behind the battery are just for power, right?
...I'm going to check eventually, but is there any diffrence in the turbo and NA fuse panel?
now you're gettin into the deep stuff! If you really don't want to swap entire wiring harnesses, you can just make your own fuel pump relay. I would put a kill switch in just in case. The only thing I can think of, that might be a prob, is overloading the stock FPR.
The white wires should all be power wires.
The fuse panels... I think there is a extra fan fuse, but other than that I think they're the same.
11-14-2005, 03:01 PM
#52
The Evil Twin
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 9,294
Ya, I saw that mondo fan out front on the turbo car. I'm not going to use that. I'm taking out the air conditioning. That will add some good airflow by itself.
so, lets just say I plug in the turbo fuel pump and connect it to the stock wires... that means the factory NA relay and such powers it.
What will happen? will it work ? hehe... I know where the factory relay is.
I suppose, I could use the stock NA relay to power a generic aftermarket relay for the fuel pump if the relay itself will be too weak to flow the amps for the turbo pump. (I'm not sure if that's an issue here)
In a major wreck, where I can't or don't turn the ignition off, I think flipping my fuel pump switch off is not really going to be on my mind or possible. That's why they go with the auto-shutoff... maybe I'll just decide not to wreck this car. That'll work!
so, lets just say I plug in the turbo fuel pump and connect it to the stock wires... that means the factory NA relay and such powers it.
What will happen? will it work ? hehe... I know where the factory relay is.I suppose, I could use the stock NA relay to power a generic aftermarket relay for the fuel pump if the relay itself will be too weak to flow the amps for the turbo pump. (I'm not sure if that's an issue here)
In a major wreck, where I can't or don't turn the ignition off, I think flipping my fuel pump switch off is not really going to be on my mind or possible. That's why they go with the auto-shutoff... maybe I'll just decide not to wreck this car. That'll work!
11-15-2005, 07:46 AM
#55
The Evil Twin
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 9,294
I'm trying not to think about driving it quite yet... I'll start daydreaming. There's still a lot of work left to do. But its nice to have the parts car out of the garage. Now I can set both engines in the middle of the floor and start doing the small stuff.
Ok, a couple things to remember. No matter how many times I looked at the clutch slave cylinder while under the car, i still forgot to disconnect it. It pulled a bit but I saw it and cut the line. Also, that bracket on the back of the transmission does in fact hold tight to the exhaust pipe! I yank on that engine so much it litteraly ripped the pipe right out of the rusty muffler. I had cut the pipe off just after the downpipe.
I removed the 3 bolts on the bottom of the down pipe and then slammed on the exhaust for a while. It wouldn't break loose.
For the electrical, I figured I could cut/splice the wires either going right into the fusable links or coming out of them. I cut them comming out. So now I will use the turbo fusable links box an solder it in to my car in the same manner. Everthing else just unplugged.
Q: stock boost sensor is still on the fender wall. Is this only needed for the factory boost gauge? I'll be using an aftermarket gauge.
Ok, a couple things to remember. No matter how many times I looked at the clutch slave cylinder while under the car, i still forgot to disconnect it. It pulled a bit but I saw it and cut the line. Also, that bracket on the back of the transmission does in fact hold tight to the exhaust pipe!
I yank on that engine so much it litteraly ripped the pipe right out of the rusty muffler. I had cut the pipe off just after the downpipe.I removed the 3 bolts on the bottom of the down pipe and then slammed on the exhaust for a while. It wouldn't break loose.
For the electrical, I figured I could cut/splice the wires either going right into the fusable links or coming out of them. I cut them comming out. So now I will use the turbo fusable links box an solder it in to my car in the same manner. Everthing else just unplugged.
Q: stock boost sensor is still on the fender wall. Is this only needed for the factory boost gauge? I'll be using an aftermarket gauge.
Last edited by Bleach; 11-15-2005 at 07:56 AM.
11-17-2005, 07:49 PM
#59
The Evil Twin
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 9,294
1. Engine up on the stand. Do you call this, twin turbo? 
2. Cleaned up a bit
3. Timing is set correct. Cam looks great. Upper sprocket looks different. Is this Nissan or aftermarket? (maybe different for the turbo?) Timing set looks really nice. When I pull the front cover off I should be able to tell if it was replaced or not. I have a new set anyway
4. My 16x10 wheels for the rear
2. Cleaned up a bit
3. Timing is set correct. Cam looks great. Upper sprocket looks different. Is this Nissan or aftermarket? (maybe different for the turbo?) Timing set looks really nice. When I pull the front cover off I should be able to tell if it was replaced or not. I have a new set anyway
4. My 16x10 wheels for the rear
11-19-2005, 08:47 PM
#61
The Evil Twin
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 9,294
Just a lot of cleaning and some painting the last couple days. The block is done with paint as well as a few accessories for the front end. I think tomorrow I might be putting the new timing set on.
Pictured are the painted items, the timing set with spark plug wires, blue Nissan oil filter, and my gaskets. I have a set of the aluminum injector holders which I cleaned up a bit.
Pictured are the painted items, the timing set with spark plug wires, blue Nissan oil filter, and my gaskets. I have a set of the aluminum injector holders which I cleaned up a bit.
11-20-2005, 03:52 PM
#63
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Saskatoon, SK
Posts: 2,893
hey bleach the timing kit...where did you get it...i see those ebay ones kicking around that are from "japan" but i could swear sombody posted they suck...i need a nice timing kit
engines looking clean...but ahh you shoulda went black..:P
engines looking clean...but ahh you shoulda went black..:P
Last edited by Skully; 11-20-2005 at 04:45 PM.
11-20-2005, 08:25 PM
#64
The Evil Twin
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 9,294
Mine was from Importedcarparts.com
I think they are out of them now. I get a lot of my stuff from that website. They have good prices and quick shipping. A lot of their stuff says manufacturer "Japan" and some items even come with Nissan part numbers on them! I think they get them from the same distributors as Nissan. Rocker arms used to be $13 apiece but are back up to $40 something. A few years ago they had a lot of 280ZX parts but a few items are drying up...
I think they are out of them now.
I get a lot of my stuff from that website. They have good prices and quick shipping. A lot of their stuff says manufacturer "Japan" and some items even come with Nissan part numbers on them! I think they get them from the same distributors as Nissan. Rocker arms used to be $13 apiece but are back up to $40 something. A few years ago they had a lot of 280ZX parts but a few items are drying up...
11-20-2005, 08:34 PM
#65
Originally Posted by Skully
hey bleach the timing kit...where did you get it...i see those ebay ones kicking around that are from "japan" but i could swear sombody posted they suck...i need a nice timing kit
engines looking clean...but ahh you shoulda went black..:P
engines looking clean...but ahh you shoulda went black..:P
11-20-2005, 11:30 PM
#66
The Evil Twin
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 9,294
What is the difference in these two upper timing chain sprockets? Non-turbo on left and turbo on right... maybe? Any known timing changes?
oil pan and front cover are off. Cleaned stuff a little, but everything looks really good on this engine. New oil pickup tube (just because I had it already).
and in case the colors don't show up vividly, I'm painting the engine white. (not grey)
oil pan and front cover are off. Cleaned stuff a little, but everything looks really good on this engine. New oil pickup tube (just because I had it already).
and in case the colors don't show up vividly, I'm painting the engine white. (not grey)
11-21-2005, 06:11 AM
#67
Originally Posted by Bleach
What is the difference in these two upper timing chain sprockets? Non-turbo on left and turbo on right... maybe? Any known timing changes?
11-21-2005, 07:27 AM
#68
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Temecula, CA
Posts: 5,485
As long as the timing holes are all in the same place then it makes no difference which one you use.Thats the only difference. The one with less of the larger holes might just be from a casting change or they are using a cheaper (both cost and property wise) so they wanted to keep more material on the sprocket maybe 
But just make sure the timing holes line up the same and it's all good
But just make sure the timing holes line up the same and it's all good
11-21-2005, 07:30 AM
#69
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Temecula, CA
Posts: 5,485
Yeah I'm double posting but I thought of something else. I don't if what Nismopick said above has any merit, but if indeed the turbo one was forged that would make it a stonger piece than the cast one. So they could take out more metal to make it lighter without sacrificing too much strength. Where as the cast one would need more metal to stay rigid. That is of course if the turbo one is indeed not cast as he suspected. Just a thought. Plus if it's not a Nissan part then chances are who ever is manufacturing them wants to do it as cheaply as possible. And casting is much cheaper then forging. Which is just another though.
11-21-2005, 09:50 AM
#72
Doesn't post much...
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Escondido (San Diego) California
Posts: 3,617
Yeah, I gotta question the color choice myself there Bleach. Not sure how long white is going to stay white. I think doing it in the same deep red/maroon as your cars exterior would have been sah-weet!. Whatever makes you happy is all that counts though. Looking good.
Rod.
Rod.
11-21-2005, 11:58 AM
#75
The Evil Twin
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 9,294
no, the engine is not going to be caked with grease unless all my new gaskets fail. My truck's engine I did not paint but just put it together. 2 years later its still very clean. Any fresh painted engine will show the oil, except for black.Hopefully I have no leaks. If I do I can either fix them or do a quick degrease before I go to a show. Its hard to find any kind of dark maroon or purple color in high temp engine paint. Plus its easy to get things in white. Its a neutral color that will look fine in any color car. and ya, it kinda goes with the 'bleach' theme. :P
