What about thhe VQ32 comming on the R-35. is a V6 with 480 HP twin turbo factory. That will be and interesting swap, If you can afford the engine.

 

How much would the engine cost? And how much do you think it'd cost to fabricate the parts to install it?

Because I bet that'd cost more than an intake, full exhaust, ECU, intercoolers, and Sport 500's... and with those on a VG30DETT, you'd make more than 480hp.

This is my point. For the power, no conversion will yield more power for less money than a VG30DETT.

 

i wouldnt say its the best bang for the buck, an RB swap would cost about the same as a TT swap, but it is SO much easier to get loads of power out of an RB its not even funny, the only with an RB is that if you live in cali you basicly cant do the swap, but anywho, you like what you like, its not your car/money/time so why argue, hell i could drop an sbc into my z and not care, its my car/time/money, if he wants to do a swap that nobody else has done, then let him, where not gonna get anywhere by being afraid of trying new things....

 

Can you provide a rough cost breakdown to your 480 h.p.?

 

- Injectors (500-700)
- Downpipes (300-400)
- Testpipes (300)
- ECU (300)
- Boost Controller (300)
- AFC (300)
- Turbos (2k)
- Clutch (500)
- Intercoolers (600-1000)

 

As we have all stated in the threads if you are looking for Power, then you want to go with the VG30DETT.

If he just wants to be different fine, but if you want power you want to go with something that is reliable and tested. The VG30DETT has been around for a good while now and so has tuning it. All it's quirks are known, and can be dealt with for the most part. So not only will it be easier/cheaper it will also be more reliable. You can't beat the bang for buck for power of the VG30DETT in the 90-96Z, it's like swapping a V8 into the older Z's and then dumping the Supercharger on it. It's a known recipe for power and reliable power at that.

So if you want power and want to swap something into the 90-96Z swap in the VG30DETT, there are no secrets here. If you want to be different and do something new and interesting go for it.

 

Can you add in the approx. cost for the tt swap and maintenance stuff you might do before installation? That being for the individuals converting from n/a.

 

I have no idea what it would cost to do the swap, I'm guessing around 6k, but then you'll save some costs if you do the work above on the engine before you even drop it in.

I would say about 10-12k for a swap for a NA total. If you were to really be thinking about it I think I would go ahead and do some block work while it was out, some extrude honing on the upper/lower manifolds and tubular manifolds. Probably a new set of mild cams from JWT as well, and you'd probably be pretty close to the 500/500 mark even with just sport 500's.

 

Z1 offers several packages for converting a N/A to TT, an A/T to 5spd, and several horsepower options for varying prices. Prices include labor & maintenance on the parts they install, if you're either within driving distance or are willing to ship your Z to them.

 

Make no mistake. You can realistically get 330 HP out of a VG30DE. I would do your homework prior to making the investment as the same investment into a TT would yield 600+ Hp. Just something to think about. For me, I did not own a TT and so I did not really care.

Good luck.

 

with NOS yes. without NOS no. and why would you want a 330 hp non turbo for the "same investment" as a 600+ hp twin turbo

 

Actually...you would be wrong. Without NOS you can achieve approx 330+ HP.

CAMS
POP CHARGER
ECU
EXHAUST
HEADERS
PORTED / POLISHED INTAKE
UNDERDRIVE PULLEY
INJECTORS

With these components (6000.00) you will be around 330 horsepower. You’re done as this represents pretty much all you can do to this motor. With NOS you will be around 390 and then if you add Heads around 430HP.

You can disagree if you like but it just means you have not done your homework regarding upgrades on the N/A.

As for doing this to an N/A vs a TT. Not sure I can answer that one. I purchased a particularly clean N/A not having done my homework. Once I got it home I discovered that I should have waited and bought a TT. I toy with the idea of selling it all the time and taking the money and investing it into a TT. It's one of those...."Sell it now and accept my loss or just not give a damn." I have no idea what I will end up doing.

But some people don't care about such things and that is why I mentioned that investing the same money into a TT would yield better results.

I appreciate your cynical view on the subject, clearly you own a TT and it has gone to your head.

 

you got that from the sgp chart didnt you. and, actually, ive had 2 non turbos, and one TT, and i am saving up for another one currently...check my sig next time


EXAMPLE:

ENGINE & DRIVETRAIN:
JWT pop charger
Stillen ceramic coated headers
Ztuner test pipes with resonators
Stillen dbl.Y pipe
Dual tip Sebring tuning mufflers/Labree
Sun Auto Hyperground System
JWT S-1 Cams (mild)
Custom ecu by Ztuner.com
EGR elimination
TB coolant lines eliminated
Z tuner PCV relocation
ASP Underdrive crank pulley
RPS segmented aluminum fw
RPS TT sport clutch w/street disc
Z-1 One piece steel ds
Topspeed short throw shifter


228.82 RWHP 189.63 Torque - Dynojet. 11/26/2005

which with drivetrain loss would be (15%) around 270 at the crank. yes, i know he doesnt have p&p or injectors...BUT his injectors were not maxed out yet, so there would be no gain from them. i am not sure if the headwork would max them out tho. i dont even know if ported/polished plenum will even gain that much without headwork/internal work. but ive never done it either, so what do i know...

i guess ill take my statement back about not breaking the 330 hp mark, but only by saying its gonna take you a lot more upgrades and money to get there than what you posted. thats great if you hit 300 crank hp in an n/a, but after that, how streetable is it gonna be? not very realistic either. headwork, stroker kit, bigger cam, injectors, higher compression, full race gas.

for what you stated = $6000 in parts. probably another $10k in labor and tuning(if you dont do it yourself). dont forget about drivetrain and suspension if you want to get that hp to the ground. that stock clutch(not sure about auto convertor) isnt gonna hold all that power. thats at least $2000 more(inc. labor) all together. you will also need a very clean healthy VG to reach that mark.

quote from russel@z1 "I'd say it would be very hard to get more than 260 rwhp from a true Z32 NA on pump fuel, regardless how much work you had done or how much money you spent with any company." which roughly equates to 300-310 crank hp

oh, and you were the one who posted a thread about realistic n/a performance and then said:

 

and, if i would have kept my cherry n/a, it would have recieved JWTs mild cam, ashspecs ecu, and the UD pulley last summer. i would have been praying for the 220rwhp mark with all my mods:

intake
specialtyZ catback
TSP test pipes
RPS 6 puck turbo clutch
lightweight flywheel
stillen short throw
1 piece driveshaft
grounding kit
ashspec ecu
jwt mild cam
UD pulley
KYB AGX shocks
Eibach springs

 

"Dynojet"
remember the thread on hybridz that explained dyno machines in great detail? he talked about the dynojet machines giving a higher HP so shops could increase business while having the machine that cost less, wich would equal more money in the operators pocket..

 

You are probably right. I base my findings off of what material I can find on the net regarding the N/A VG30DE. I am curious how much horsepower a stock N/A VG30DE actually delivers to the RW. How much horsepower does the VG30DETT deliver? I will never debate that buying a TT and investing 6000 will yield far better results and one will certainly get more for their money by taking that route. For some people; myself included I have become attached to my N/A and ultimately I am not sure out accelerating an Evo is what is truly important. I wish we could do more with the N/A but sadly this is just not the case. When people ask, "Why did you not buy the TT?" in the back of my mind it's because I was an idiot and simply did not do my homework.

If you're looking to outrun an STI or Evo, a TT is the only way to go.
IF you're looking for a beautiful car, either will do.

Sorry for ranting earlier. I am here to make friends....not be an ***.

 

no problem man. at least you can admit that you were a bit too harsh. a lot of times, people get "internet *****" and just have to be right, no matter what. glad thats not the case with you. always nice to have people around that can enter in an intelligent discussion rather than a flame war.

 

Whoever said that a 1 piece aluminum driveshaft doesnt do much is mistaken. All the mods you listed i have done to my NA, except the ecu, as well as stillen headers and a clutch and fidanza flywheel and ported manifolds. I did the whole exhaust first (intake headers exhaust) that is your best first step, downpipes are key as well but be prepared to roar. There's no point in spending a grip on an ECU if you dont get rid of that back pressure, so I would wait on the ECU until your Z can breath. By far one of the best mods you can do to an NA (besides headers) is a one piece aluminum driveshaft. Your stock driveshaft is about 28 pounds and its two pieces split by a carrier bearing, which causes a lot of flex in the shaft causing a jerky shift on high mileage Z's. I got my aluminum driveshaft from SGPracing.com for $400 and it weighs in at 13 pounds which is less than half the weight of the stock shaft. If the price is a little high then check out z1motorsports.com they make a one piece steel drive shaft for about $200 difinitely not as light as aluminum but it is about five pounds lighter than stock and it deletes the carrier bearing, try for aluminum though.The more wieght you take off the crank the more hidden power you free up. I noticed a huge difference not so much in the power but in the revs. Match that up with a clutch and flywheel and some expensive UR pullies and you got your self a pretty sweet NA. Still interested in the ECU? Obviously aren't we all? Definitley do most of these other mods first then go for the ECU. Dont order from the website call them whether its Stillen, JWT or whoever, call them let them know what mods you have done and they will set you up with the right tune. Throw a short shifter on for your own enjoyment. Get a new suspension, not that stock isnt superior to most cars, Tokico is the way to go unless you want to spend a fortune on a coilover kit. Go with either Tokico or Eibach springs i dont care what anyone says they are hands down one of the best springs you can buy dont forget your polyurethane bushing kit. We all love our Z's but us NA guys have to understand we dont compare to a TT. All Z32's are made to handle the NA is no drag racer so take advantage of what Japan created and tear up the asphalt, thats a lot funner then going straight anyways. Keep up the good work and one day you will be satisfied.

 

hello everyone my name is chris,

i've been looking for a new car recently and i've came across a very clean 1990 z32 (custom interior, few scrapes and off color areas in exterior), with a few mods. it has a stillen intake and a cat-back exhaust. i haven't bought the car yet but i'll get it on monday april 23. the engine is imported from japan (3.0L not sure if is a DOHC or SOHC) with only 30000+ miles on it, but the car itself has 160000+. before i ask the question i just wanted to say that i've researching everything i can about the z32 and every question that ask about what they could do to there na and that they have a budget. so what i wanted to do was to replace every thing in the car and i mean every thing, i want it to be completly customized because im planning on keeping this car forever and i want this to be the fastest that it can with out putting turbo or supercharger (i might put NOS in later), so my question is what would you guys recommend that i should do and also where is a great shop that i could get everything done (performance, suspension, cooling, wiring, everything...) and also if there is a z32 car club near whittier, ca. oh and also i don't have a budget because i've been planning on going to iraq for a year and a half so i'll have more than 60000$ after taxes.

thanks and sorry for the long story....

 

start with reading this thread from the beginning dragon.

merged with How to make the N/A Faster?? swap mass merge thread.

 

ahhhm i was wondering where this thread went i typed a response and the thread was gone, yeah read this, but also hear yah go

i first off, wouldnt buy that car, if you search JDM engines on this forum you will see mroe bad than good experiences as well as people telling you NOT to buy them. why, becuase there is not CARFAX for japan, so you dont know crap about the motor, they say 30K on the motor, but where is the proof, also, if you had to swap your motor after 30K how would you drive it? probably liek you stole it. second off, its going to be DOHC if its a Z32 engine, otherwise your buying an inferior car if it is SOHC. second off, if you have that much money, and are going to replace EVERYTHING, why would you go NA. just buy a TT, and after all the money spent on an NA unless you got custom higher compression pistons made for you the gains will be like MAYBE and just MAYBE 300 hp without nitrous. and thats after alot of money. and if your going to add nitrous why not just get a turbocharger setup, its the same effect just non constant power. if you want an NA car, do it for the money savings and just make it a nice car, if you want a performance car, your sooo much better off getting a TT. i know that didnt answer a 2 qustions, but it is still good advice.

 

thanks, i'll keep that in mind. but if i do put a tt in how long realistically do you think that engine will last under normal driving conditions.

 

define "normal" driving conditions lol.

a TT will last you as long as any other car as long as you take care of it. plain and simple. it's a fast car and made to haul *** but if you beat on it, it won't last you.
just take care of it and it'll take care of you.

 

why even transplant the TT... there are some benefits, but the best and more reliable way is to just buy a TT car, its done by the factory so your pretty garunteed its done right and i would go for the 92 model cars. less problems still OBDI and i think they switched to the newer injectors, or is that a little later, i cant remember now i used to have a list of reasons why. also they dont have the ugly later model TT wing.

 

thnaks for the information i appreciate but i have another question. my friend said (who also builds cars and tunes them) that having a cold air intake on an n/a is better than a performance (non-cold air) intake. is this true or not.