bardabe

wht turbos are you planign on using? i am considering on Using teh Garrett GT28RS turbos. with HKS actuator valves and COZ 5 bolt down pipes. with soem research i figured outt that teh Garrett GT28RS are the same as the HKS 2035 ball bearing. (yes the garret's are ball bearing as well) any inputs on this?

91zxtt

I'm looking more along the lines of AMZ's stage 1 or Z1's GT525's since both bolt to the 4-bolt pattern downpipes.

Don't you mean the HKS 2530's? The turbo's you're looking at pretty big and very pricey. Those are the same as the JWT 700BB turbos; which have a tremendous amount of lag.

bardabe

my bad typo i want the GT28R not RS.

91zxtt

Can someone explain what exactly this means...(duration and lift)..I get the basics, but which cam is built for higher performance. If I understand this correctly, the Z1 CAMS are ground a bit more on the performance side than the JWT's are. The HL-14's stay open longer, but don't open as much, correct? The HL-15's are open longer and open wider than JWT's; which = greater performance, right?

Z1's HL-14 cams are 270 degress duration and .365" lift
Z1's HL-15 cams are 270 degrees duration and .385" lift

The JWT 100's are 262 degress duration and .368" lift
The 400's are the same +4 degrees advance on the exhaust cam L.C. (recommended for 400-600 HP cars)
The 400+'s are 264 degrees duration and .375" lift + 4 degrees again.
(recommended 450-650 HP cars)

(Not sure what the L.C. means)

This is what I'm considering...
http://www.z1motorsports.com/product...roducts_id=952
or
http://www.z1motorsports.com/product...roducts_id=953


Unless there's something wrong with my pistons, I've decided the I'm not going to go far enough into it to change the pistons, rings & rods. I'll stick with larger turbos, cams, Stage 2 or 3 head work, & ported exhaust manifold. I'll likely run 19 psi - 21 psi max with the larger turbos.

91zxtt

Oh, I meant to also let you guys know that the engine is just about ready to come out. Need to drain the oil and the tranny fluid, remove the driveshaft, unbolt the lower control arms and the tension rods. That should just about cover it. It actually doesn't look like it'll be that bad. I'm crossing my fingers.

With the engine out, I guess I can finally replace that damn EGR valve. I think I'll look into removing the HICAS as well. I guess I'll need to install an N/A power steering pump and fluid reservoir. That should really clean up the engine compartment a lot and lighten her pretty substanstially.

b300z

linkies no workies...

i found this tho...
from...
http://www.wighat.com/fcr3/camtruth.htm
also maybe something in...
http://www.elgincams.com/campaper.html

are you sure you dont want to upgrade everything so you dont have to strip it all down again...just like your motto

so how long do we have to wait now to see it back together and running purrrfectly? I hope not next year.

bardabe

wouldn't it be easier to just loosen the motor mounts and break out the Hoist?

Mousier158

i have removed hicas on my tt. theres a couple meathods...get the hicas lock that stillen, spl, and many others sell...or swap the rear subframe to an N/A rearend. visit Z1motorsports under their tech section they have a very informative article. Dont forget when using an n/a p/s pump you need the matching bracket for as the tt p/s pump mounts slightly different...i made this mistake.

91zxtt

Thanks for the heads-up on that. I never would've guessed that the brackets would be different. I like the SPL HICAS eliminator since it comes with tie rods. It looks like a cleaner conversion.

91zxtt

Engine's out. It came out farily easily; which was a nice surprise. Dad pulled the heads off today. All 6 exhaust valves on the driver's side made contact with the pistons. I intake valve hung up on one of the exhaust valves. Pistons & cylinders look flawless. Turbo's are absolutely destroyed, but it wasn't caused by this most incident. It's amazing they made any boost at all. All this time I thought the DINAN chip wasn't programmed right or that my boost jets weren't drilled right, but it appears that the turbo's were the culprit. I'll post picks later. I didn't have my camera with me.

And considering that the car is my parent's place, there's no way it's going to take as long to get it back together. Probably a couple months. Maybe by my birthday (October 3rd). Cross your fingers.

CanyonCarver

Bad as in turbines rubbing the housings?

Are you getting the heads rebuilt? .... or replacing? Maybe for fun, ask the head shop about going to a li'l bigger valves?

91zxtt

Who knows. Something got in there and just shredded the turbines on the intake side. When we disassembled it, nothing was in the pipe, so whatever it was, it was ground up and spit out. Hell, it could've been like that since I bought it. I'll never know.

91zxtt

Engine bay needs some serious cleaning. I need to reconnect the cross memerb and steering box so I can roll it outside. It'll make a mess, so I'll have to do it when Dad isn't there.

bardabe

does it have any shaft play? one word and one series.

Garrett GT28R

same as HKS GT 2538. cheaper, and still Ball bearing.

91zxtt

This is why it won't take as long to get the car back together. Keep in mind, this is Dad's garage.

91zxtt

Shaft play isn't the problem. Lack of fins on the turbine is the problem.

91zxtt

This is what the engine looked like coming out.

entropy31

wow 91, those turbos look nasty. no wonder you werent getting any boost.

91zxtt

Here are some shots of the heads and the block. The exhaust valves are the ones that are kind of a light brown. #6's exhaust valves are black. #6 is the hole that had the faulty injector. I think I can safely assume that was truly my smog problem.

The block looks very un-assuming once you've removed all of the other crap.

91zxtt

Yep. I'm going to clean them up and use them as paperweights at the office.

bardabe

uhm. no enigne slingers. not very safe. they where made for a reason. btu yeah. looking good. that hoist dosent look safe either.

91zxtt

We made mounting brackets that bolted straight into the heads. 2 bolts per side. IMO, better than where the FSM recommended to lift it out. The FSM way is extremely unbalanced. This was pretty easy.

I agree in regards to the hoist. It's not ours. We borrowed it from a friend. I'm considering just buying a new one so I'm not a basket case when we put it back in.

entropy31

that'll be cool. i had a chief in the navy who was a 1st and 2nd gen rx-7 guy, and he had one of his old rotors made into a clock. maybe polish one of them turbos up and try something like that.

Riz Z Speed

man, i'm so wishing i lived near you so i could help.
as dissapointing as the results are, i'm thinking how much fun it would be to rebuild your engine. Of course it's always more fun when it's someone else's car.

CanyonCarver

I'll never think my garage is a mess again. you can definitely see where the valves hit the pistons.