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05-11-2005, 05:49 AM
#126
Aqua Teen Hunger Force Fan
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Smyrna, TN
Posts: 535
Originally Posted by 91zxtt
Do you think I overdid it with the red???
It really didn't seem like that much since I painted lots of small pieces over the past few weeks.
I do kinda wish I painted the timing cover. Oh well, a project for another day. T -minus 52,000 miles.
The only things I left are the following...
1) Front strut bar.
2) Fuel lines.
Did you guys that you need to slightly alter the fuel lines to and from the fuel rail in order to get the Carbing strut bar to fit? Me neither.
Just an FYI for those of you who are looking to add this in the future. It's not as simple as removing 4 bolts, dropping it in place and tightening those same 4 bolts.
3) Connect electric fan.
4) Add coolant.
5) Check and recheck everything thoroughly.
6) Boost controller mount.
7) Bumper
I'm sure I'll start it after #6 is done, but it'll be tough to fight the urge to drive it since the front is completely exposed.
8) Rear sway bar.
9) Rear strut bar.
10) Adjustable rear upper arms + NISMO bushings.
11) Speed bleeders on all calipers and ABS.
12) Flush with synthethic brake fluid.
13) Alignment.....badly needed.
Some of this stuff is left over from before. We'll call that era Pre WIFFS (When it f*ck*ng failed smog).
It really didn't seem like that much since I painted lots of small pieces over the past few weeks.
I do kinda wish I painted the timing cover. Oh well, a project for another day. T -minus 52,000 miles.
The only things I left are the following...
1) Front strut bar.
2) Fuel lines.
Did you guys that you need to slightly alter the fuel lines to and from the fuel rail in order to get the Carbing strut bar to fit? Me neither.
Just an FYI for those of you who are looking to add this in the future. It's not as simple as removing 4 bolts, dropping it in place and tightening those same 4 bolts.3) Connect electric fan.
4) Add coolant.
5) Check and recheck everything thoroughly.
6) Boost controller mount.
7) Bumper
I'm sure I'll start it after #6 is done, but it'll be tough to fight the urge to drive it since the front is completely exposed.
8) Rear sway bar.
9) Rear strut bar.
10) Adjustable rear upper arms + NISMO bushings.
11) Speed bleeders on all calipers and ABS.
12) Flush with synthethic brake fluid.
13) Alignment.....badly needed.
Some of this stuff is left over from before. We'll call that era Pre WIFFS (When it f*ck*ng failed smog).
05-15-2005, 05:49 PM
#127
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Gerber, CA
Posts: 3,672
Well, I got #1, #2 and #7 done. I ran into a problem putting the parking lights in. They hit the intercooler, even with the 90 degree connector that Stillen provided. &^^$@%&#^$. I reall y don't feel like cutting anything, but i may have to. I believe it's just hitting the intercooler duct, so I'll hack into that a bit. Hopefully I'll think of something by next weekend to solve this little hurdle.
#4 is easy. Prestone, Water Wetter and Distilled water. #5 I've basically completed. I still need to set the TPS. #6 should be pretty simple. I'm going to borrow part of Denver's idea..
I was going to mount the rear sway bar today, but when I rolled under the car I realized that I have to remove the mid pipes for it to come out. That was a bigger job than I wanted to tackle, so that'll wait till next weekend.
A bit of a complaint regarding Z1's electric fan..(#3)..They don't provide you with the male end of the terminal to plug into the fan. I'm having a hard time locating the right size spade connectors to fit. F*ckers. I tried calling them and the person I spoke to had no idea what I was talking about. He tried to sell me a thermostatic switch, but that not what I need. I was hoping that one of the connectors off the old wiring harness would, but of course that would've been too easy.
What else,.....
I turned on the ignition to check for fuel leaks, and everything is tight; i.e. no leaks. One thing that confuses me,...the fuel pump kept running. I had to disconnect the battery to shut it off. It sounded like fuel was circulating through the system i.e. it sounded like running water through the fuel lines. Why would it be doing that? Could it be because there was no fuel in the system and it was trying to bleed out all of the air; which it can't do until I start the car. Or, since there has been no vacuum applied to the system, that the dampner and FPR are basically non functional? I'm just hoping it's nothing more that I'll have to deal with.
What is the proper torque setting on the crank bolt?
I also need to go to an autowrecker to get the plug out of a plenum. There's a 14mm plug located on the passenger side of the plenum. I believe the threads are 1.5 standard pitch. I couldn't find it at the local hardware store. They only had 1.25 fine and 1.75 standard. I left mine in my old plenum when I shipped it back to Stillen. F*ck.
You can see what I had to do with the grille in order to make the DOOLZ fit.
#9-#13 will wait until after I drive it for a while.
ZX Dude-Installing the front bar I'm sure will be much easier than the rear. You can see what you need to do in one of the pictures I've attached. You may need to get some new fuel line since the new route is a bit longer.
#4 is easy. Prestone, Water Wetter and Distilled water. #5 I've basically completed. I still need to set the TPS. #6 should be pretty simple. I'm going to borrow part of Denver's idea..
I was going to mount the rear sway bar today, but when I rolled under the car I realized that I have to remove the mid pipes for it to come out. That was a bigger job than I wanted to tackle, so that'll wait till next weekend.
A bit of a complaint regarding Z1's electric fan..(#3)..They don't provide you with the male end of the terminal to plug into the fan. I'm having a hard time locating the right size spade connectors to fit. F*ckers. I tried calling them and the person I spoke to had no idea what I was talking about. He tried to sell me a thermostatic switch, but that not what I need. I was hoping that one of the connectors off the old wiring harness would, but of course that would've been too easy.
What else,.....
I turned on the ignition to check for fuel leaks, and everything is tight; i.e. no leaks. One thing that confuses me,...the fuel pump kept running. I had to disconnect the battery to shut it off. It sounded like fuel was circulating through the system i.e. it sounded like running water through the fuel lines. Why would it be doing that? Could it be because there was no fuel in the system and it was trying to bleed out all of the air; which it can't do until I start the car. Or, since there has been no vacuum applied to the system, that the dampner and FPR are basically non functional? I'm just hoping it's nothing more that I'll have to deal with.
What is the proper torque setting on the crank bolt?
I also need to go to an autowrecker to get the plug out of a plenum. There's a 14mm plug located on the passenger side of the plenum. I believe the threads are 1.5 standard pitch. I couldn't find it at the local hardware store. They only had 1.25 fine and 1.75 standard. I left mine in my old plenum when I shipped it back to Stillen. F*ck.
You can see what I had to do with the grille in order to make the DOOLZ fit.
#9-#13 will wait until after I drive it for a while.
ZX Dude-Installing the front bar I'm sure will be much easier than the rear. You can see what you need to do in one of the pictures I've attached. You may need to get some new fuel line since the new route is a bit longer.
05-15-2005, 06:58 PM
#128
caught the z fever
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Lafayette, IN
Posts: 2,518
that is amazing...im glad its all coming back together...for the most part
btw...money being sent out this friday for just the spacers and calipers(do they look ok???)...your gonna like my order form
the only thing i would gripe about is that grille...doesnt look like something that should go on a beastly Z...i could get you some red mesh grille to match the rest of your engine
oh...and dont forget this 91:
btw...money being sent out this friday for just the spacers and calipers(do they look ok???)...your gonna like my order form
the only thing i would gripe about is that grille...doesnt look like something that should go on a beastly Z...i could get you some red mesh grille to match the rest of your engine
oh...and dont forget this 91:
Originally Posted by 91zxtt
Watch, when/if I get my car back together, I'll get a speeding ticket within the 1st week. That'd be just my luck.
Watch, when/if I get my car back together, I'll get a speeding ticket within the 1st week. That'd be just my luck.
05-15-2005, 07:21 PM
#129
El Viejo
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: San Felipe, Mexico
Posts: 204
Well I've blackened the windows in my shop, put covers over the Z's double lock the doors and only bring them out after 2 AM and check to make sure know ones around as I'm so ashamed of mine after looking at yours. Thanks alot 91zxtt.j/k
That is a show quality engine bay. You should make a porfolio of your car and seek some sponsers.
That is a show quality engine bay. You should make a porfolio of your car and seek some sponsers.
05-15-2005, 07:25 PM
#130
Jack Of All Trades
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Acton, California
Posts: 2,296
Originally Posted by 91zxtt
What is the proper torque setting on the crank bolt?
THAMN......... that engine bay is awesome.
Last edited by CanyonCarver; 05-15-2005 at 07:29 PM.
05-17-2005, 11:02 PM
#131
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Gerber, CA
Posts: 3,672
Originally Posted by b300z
btw...money being sent out this friday for just the spacers and calipers
06-12-2005, 03:59 PM
#132
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Gerber, CA
Posts: 3,672
Well,...I tried to start it today with no luck. I've checked and rechecked everything. It turns over, but won't fire. It sounds normla when I turn it over. I've killed the battery twice trying to get it to start hoping that it just had to prime the system. I know there is fuel pressure going to the fuel rail because I had some fuel spray out there.
I'm speculating that I may have a defective ECU. I tried to run diagnostics through the ECU and it isn't working. With the ignition on, I turned the dial all the way clockwise, waited two seconds, then turned it back all the way counter-clockwise. The red light is lit, but it doesn't flash. Not even the 55 saying that the system is fine.
Problem #2.......the fuel pump will not turn off. I have to disconnect the battery to make it stop running; which of course it didn't do before.
I pulled one plug out and it was dry, completely dry. It didn't even smell like fuel.
The only other thing I can think of is maybe the PTU. I know that is a common cause of not starting. I of course removed the PTU during the repairs. I know those things are tempermental and many people have had problems when they relocate the PTU.
Any other ideas?
I'm speculating that I may have a defective ECU. I tried to run diagnostics through the ECU and it isn't working. With the ignition on, I turned the dial all the way clockwise, waited two seconds, then turned it back all the way counter-clockwise. The red light is lit, but it doesn't flash. Not even the 55 saying that the system is fine.
Problem #2.......the fuel pump will not turn off. I have to disconnect the battery to make it stop running; which of course it didn't do before.
I pulled one plug out and it was dry, completely dry. It didn't even smell like fuel.
The only other thing I can think of is maybe the PTU. I know that is a common cause of not starting. I of course removed the PTU during the repairs. I know those things are tempermental and many people have had problems when they relocate the PTU.
Any other ideas?
06-12-2005, 05:33 PM
#133
Bad Speller
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Moreno Valley, CA
Posts: 1,832
That really really really blows. i bet u was tossing **** everywhere and swearing your happy *** all over the house right? j/k sorry bout that btu that really sucks. you might wanna get one of these. ( http://www.blazt.biz/300/interface/index.html ) and a laptop if you don;t have one. well I'm gonna order one. that's the best answer i cna cough up. laptops on ebay run as cheap as 200$ and this is nto that expensive. good for figuring otut what's wrong am I right? I could let you borrow my ECU if you wanted btu Iono if i'd do any good since you are TT. but if intrested PM me.
Last edited by Riz Z Speed; 06-12-2005 at 06:36 PM.
06-12-2005, 05:57 PM
#134
Jack Of All Trades
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Acton, California
Posts: 2,296
The fuel pump won't turn off and you've got pressure, but the plugs are dry after cranking the battery dead................. hmmm. On the fuel pump stayng on, have you checked the relay? It might be stuck closed. The dry plugs are interesting. Is there an injector relay? Can you check the pressure regulator. You might have pressure, but maybe it's only 5 psi. or so. Before absolutey suspecting the ecu, I'd make sure you're not getting spark to the plugs. It could all be related to the fuel pump not turning off. Keep us updated.................
06-12-2005, 10:19 PM
#135
El Viejo
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: San Felipe, Mexico
Posts: 204
I had that fuel pump problem that sounded like the same thing as mine. Pump kept running.
My problem was the fuel pressure regulator. It was returning fuel to the tank and wasn't building the pressure required to run the car, but it would shut off when I turned off the key.
Check and make sure you have ignition. If you have ignition then only 2 things left. Fuel system and ECU. By not being able to read the codes makes me think you might have a bad box.
I have one here someplace I think if you need one for a TT. Let me know and I'll look.
Put a pressure gage on after your pressure regulator and see how much pressure you have. Should be in the area of 45lbs.
Now if you have ignition and fuel pressure (45lbs.) then the only thing left is ECU.
Don't quote me but I think in the start mode all the sensors are by passed. Check all the connectors.
My problem was the fuel pressure regulator. It was returning fuel to the tank and wasn't building the pressure required to run the car, but it would shut off when I turned off the key.
Check and make sure you have ignition. If you have ignition then only 2 things left. Fuel system and ECU. By not being able to read the codes makes me think you might have a bad box.
I have one here someplace I think if you need one for a TT. Let me know and I'll look.
Put a pressure gage on after your pressure regulator and see how much pressure you have. Should be in the area of 45lbs.
Now if you have ignition and fuel pressure (45lbs.) then the only thing left is ECU.
Don't quote me but I think in the start mode all the sensors are by passed. Check all the connectors.
06-14-2005, 01:52 PM
#136
Bad Speller
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Moreno Valley, CA
Posts: 1,832
Look how hard this 300ZX pulls on this SR20 powerd Fast back.
http://www.putfile.com/media.php?n=w...-SR20DET-240sx
Inspirational aint it?
http://www.putfile.com/media.php?n=w...-SR20DET-240sx
Inspirational aint it?
06-14-2005, 08:07 PM
#137
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Gerber, CA
Posts: 3,672
Bardabe...this is my thread.
I'm going to call Z1 tomorrow and ask them about the ecu, but not tell them that I bouth it from them. That way they won't try to weasel out of it. They'll give me the straight scoop. I'll check the fuel pressure this weekend.
I'm going to call Z1 tomorrow and ask them about the ecu, but not tell them that I bouth it from them. That way they won't try to weasel out of it. They'll give me the straight scoop. I'll check the fuel pressure this weekend.
06-22-2005, 03:58 PM
#140
Bad Speller
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Moreno Valley, CA
Posts: 1,832
ok I bought a Wiring diagram of the Z from 1990-1993 model. so if u need any scans of any pages feel free to ask I'll do the best i can in letting you figure out your Fuel pupm problem and letting that Z roar once more. it's both of the N/A and TT model.
06-22-2005, 07:23 PM
#141
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Gerber, CA
Posts: 3,672
I spoke to Robert @ Z1. He thinks it could be the ECU as well. I sent it back to them the other day. They were going to swap it into another car to test it. I have to call them tomorrow to see what they found out.
06-22-2005, 09:03 PM
#142
El Viejo
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: San Felipe, Mexico
Posts: 204
Originally Posted by 91zxtt
I spoke to Robert @ Z1. He thinks it could be the ECU as well. I sent it back to them the other day. They were going to swap it into another car to test it. I have to call them tomorrow to see what they found out.
I hope Robert @Z1 solves the problem...I would still check the fuel pressure after the regulator. Leave no stones unturned. You've done alot of work to your car and I know you want everything perfect and I'm waiting to hear it run.
06-25-2005, 03:46 PM
#143
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Gerber, CA
Posts: 3,672
Z1 pisses me off sometimes. They got the ecu on Tuesday. I called them on Friday at 9AM to check on the status and they still hadn't checked it. I spoke to Robert and he said they'd check it in an hour and asked that I call back. I told him I'd appreciate it if he called me back after they tested it and gave him my cell #. I never got a call and here we are on Saturday just waiting.
06-27-2005, 09:47 PM
#144
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Gerber, CA
Posts: 3,672
Z1 called today. The ecu was faulty. Robert said he'd be shipping another to me once they get more in; which should be by Wednesday. With any luck it'll be running by this weekend. I better drive it early in the day....it's supposed to be over 100 degrees here this weekend.
07-10-2005, 08:17 PM
#146
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Gerber, CA
Posts: 3,672
Good news/bad news.
She runs and quite well. I didn't push it at all since I haven't tuned the boost controller yet.
About 15 miles from my house, it quit running. Made a really weird noise, but not a boom or a pop or anything that sounded terrible. It wouldn't start, so I had to have it towed home. Dad and I figured that it had to have something to do with the timing belt, cam sprockets or pullies. We took the upper timing cover off to find that the upper idler pulley stud was bent....severely. This caused the timing belt to ride up onto the belt retainer lip on the driver's side exhaust cam, thus not turning the exhaust cam. I've done a lot of research and it seems like there is some debate about the TT being an interference or non-interference motor. I gut feeling and my brian tell me that the TT is an interference engine, so I've got to cross my fingers on any bent valves. It didn't sound like it. When we turned it over, it didn't making any clicking noises, like the piston hitting a valve, or the cam hitting the rear of the valve. We'll check the compression when I get it all back together.
When we attempted to straighten the stub, it broke, of course, so we drilled it out and tapped it. We used a grade 8 bolt to replace the stub, so it's not going to bend again.
My question is why did it do it...Could the timing belt been too tight, I don't think so. Could the stub have been fatigued? It was the stub that was in the lower plenum when Stillen shipped it to me. Who knows, maybe it was bent before and had to be bent back, thus causing fatigue. Or, could it have been caused by the timing belt itself. The belt had approximately 7k on it when I took it apart. Many people say that you should never reuse a timing belt, but Dad's done it many times and never had a problem. I don't know we'll see. So far, it's not an expensive repair, but we'll see. I'm ordering a timing belt, so we should have it put back together this week.
She runs and quite well. I didn't push it at all since I haven't tuned the boost controller yet.
About 15 miles from my house, it quit running. Made a really weird noise, but not a boom or a pop or anything that sounded terrible. It wouldn't start, so I had to have it towed home. Dad and I figured that it had to have something to do with the timing belt, cam sprockets or pullies. We took the upper timing cover off to find that the upper idler pulley stud was bent....severely. This caused the timing belt to ride up onto the belt retainer lip on the driver's side exhaust cam, thus not turning the exhaust cam. I've done a lot of research and it seems like there is some debate about the TT being an interference or non-interference motor. I gut feeling and my brian tell me that the TT is an interference engine, so I've got to cross my fingers on any bent valves. It didn't sound like it. When we turned it over, it didn't making any clicking noises, like the piston hitting a valve, or the cam hitting the rear of the valve. We'll check the compression when I get it all back together.
When we attempted to straighten the stub, it broke, of course, so we drilled it out and tapped it. We used a grade 8 bolt to replace the stub, so it's not going to bend again.
My question is why did it do it...Could the timing belt been too tight, I don't think so. Could the stub have been fatigued? It was the stub that was in the lower plenum when Stillen shipped it to me. Who knows, maybe it was bent before and had to be bent back, thus causing fatigue. Or, could it have been caused by the timing belt itself. The belt had approximately 7k on it when I took it apart. Many people say that you should never reuse a timing belt, but Dad's done it many times and never had a problem. I don't know we'll see. So far, it's not an expensive repair, but we'll see. I'm ordering a timing belt, so we should have it put back together this week.
07-10-2005, 08:31 PM
#147
Bad Speller
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Moreno Valley, CA
Posts: 1,832
probably the thignthign that bent eas previously ben so stillen bent it back and now since the timing belt was new and the tensioner tensioned it alot. when it got to runnign temperature it just bent thus screwing your timing belt over. sorry to hear that. hopefully you cna host some videos next time.
07-10-2005, 09:30 PM
#148
Jack Of All Trades
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Acton, California
Posts: 2,296
Bummer dude............ I would speculate one or both of two things........ The belt was too tight, did you set that 4mm gap at the tensioner? The pulley was loose. Before you button it back up, You might want to double check and make sure that you didn't badly deform the material where the pulley seats against. Maybe check it or the pulley with a square to make sure it's true.
07-17-2005, 11:12 AM
#149
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Gerber, CA
Posts: 3,672
f*ck...bent valves. Engine's coming out. Pistons must've just barely knicked 'em. Compression varied from 120-145. Usually when you bend a valve the compression falls to more like 50. Guess that ends the debate over interference/non-interference in the VG30 TT. We did 2 tests on top of the compression test to be sure. Both lead us to the same conclusion. f*ck again.
Actually, I'm not all that pissed. It could've been worse, I guess. Since it's already been down for 6 months, another few months won't be much different.
Since the engine is coming out, I'll hone my exhaust manifolds and likely upgrade the turbos. I'll probably install a set of cams and have the heads ported. I'll replace the head bolts also.
Should I consider wiseco pistons and eagle rods, because I am? I just need to look at the total cost and see if I can get away with it.
Actually, I'm not all that pissed. It could've been worse, I guess. Since it's already been down for 6 months, another few months won't be much different.
Since the engine is coming out, I'll hone my exhaust manifolds and likely upgrade the turbos. I'll probably install a set of cams and have the heads ported. I'll replace the head bolts also.
Should I consider wiseco pistons and eagle rods, because I am?
I just need to look at the total cost and see if I can get away with it.
07-17-2005, 11:32 AM
#150
Jack Of All Trades
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Acton, California
Posts: 2,296
Originally Posted by 91zxtt
Should I consider wiseco pistons and eagle rods, because I am? I just need to look at the total cost and see if I can get away with it.
I just need to look at the total cost and see if I can get away with it.
