BlueKitsune

1990 300ZXTT 2+2 with a 93 AutoTT Engine tho its a 5 speed now.













$750 and he let me have it. now to fix the blown TT in it.

NismoPick

Is this a good thing?

I thought this was the car from hell? And now you own it....

ZLover4Life

Start from the ground up. It'll need it. lol

At least you can do it as you want it, though, and are not bound to the former owner's bullshit.


P.S. The front wheels are on backwards.

BlueKitsune

I noticed that after I took the pics and I didnt feel like changing them for new pics lol

And yes Nismo, that is the car from hell, and now I do own it. I'm asking myself "WTF AM I DOING!?" But I think it might turn out ok lol

hoov100

Even if it doesn't work out, you could make all your money back parting it out.

BlueKitsune

Thats what I was thinking too

BlueKitsune

How can I find the exact year that engine was built? I "think" its a 93 JDM auto trans engine. But I'm not 100% sure to be honest. and I dont want to buy the wrong gasket kit or parts.

Also do I HAVE to pull the engine to take the heads off?

ZLover4Life

There are no markings on the motor, you have to tell from the components. And honestly, I've never had to worry about it... search TwinTurbo.NET for differences in the engine components (cam gears are different, for example).

Heads can be pulled with the motor in the car, but dude, you need to do more than a head pull to ensure that motor is healthy. Pull the **** out and rebuild... new bearings at least.

BlueKitsune

I know I really should. Hmm Guess I'll pull it and rebuild it anyways.

ZLover4Life

The fuel injectors and cam gears can usually indicate the differences in model year up to the point that it really matters, I think...

BlueKitsune

Alright, I have NO idea what kind is in there lol but I'll find out during the tear down. I need to get an engine slinger. I dont think feeding a rope between the intake runners is a good idea on his motor.

ZLover4Life

You can use a front plenum bolt and a top trans bolt to lift the engine. Or you can use bolts that extend into each side of the plenum. I've done both and each had its own benefits.

hoov100

You can also be lazy and just unbolt both crossmembers, disconnect everything and lift the car up over the motor, little more work, but makes front bushing replacement easier.

ZLover4Life

I'd say it's harder to lift a car off an engine than an engine out of a car. lol

By the way...

...errrrrmmm...?

BlueKitsune

I think Ill try one of those first ones, but hoov's idea is far to much work lol even more so when you dont have a lift to clear the engine

BlueKitsune

Well I went down and talked to my machinist friend about the engine and to see what would need to be done with it. We wont know till we tear into it to know what will need to be done but the engine kit for it was close to a grand. so I'm looking around $2K Then we will rebuild the turbos or send them off to be rebuilt as well. I'm also looking for a new proper FMIC and piping instead of this shitty one and crush bent exhaust pipes.

I also want to get a new EFI harness too, where do you guys get those things at? I'm assuming the dealership.

Not to sure what else I should change as I think that covers all the bases engine wise. Maybe a turbo timer. And maybe an EBC.

ZLover4Life

There's really no such thing as a "proper FMIC." There are SMICs, and the TDM Works FMIC (which isn't bad, but will still block airflow for no benefit), and then other FMICs which don't perform as well as SMICs.

BlueKitsune

You can see the FMIC in the pictures and its hangs a bit to low and the angle of the pipes coming out are horrible. I'd put SMICs in if I could. but I honestly have no idea how they would mount...to me it looks like theres to much stuff where they would go.

... Tho I dont know how big the SMICs are...

hoov100

Judging from what I can see, the FMIC on that doesn't look like your typical ebay trash. If you want to get froggy you can always make an airbox and seal the radiator to the core support. I noticed a 25 degree drop in temps by sealing the radiator to the core support and by sealing the shroud of the electric fan to the edges of the radiator.

I'm about to build an air box for my sisters TT so I should have dimensions and pics up in a week or so.

BlueKitsune

ya its not an ebay IC And that sounds interesting. Tho I just want to run new IC pipes but the angle the pipes come out of the core are kind odd. most of the pipes have a U bend at lest once in them because of it.

ZLover4Life

With the exception of TDM Works' FMIC, SMICs > FMICs. Less pressure drop with just as much volume, charge face, and ambient air face, all without blocking any airflow to anything that needs airflow. Consider the people who built that car... do you really think they had performance in mind when they put that intercooler in? In general, the smart money goes to SMICs.

BlueKitsune

I see! I like that! Much cleaner looking too I wonder if I can find a junked TT and get the IC pipes and side mount hardware. I'm not looking for high performance, just enough to get this Z back on the road reliably.

BlueKitsune

Anyone ever heard of a brand called "GodSpeed" ? this 300ZX has an aluminum radiator from them.

http://www.godspeedproject.com/store...roducts_id=466

That exact one actually.

ZLover4Life

Their intercoolers aren't that bad; I've never researched their radiators, though. As I said, I've had good experiences with the stock unit in my Zs.

BlueKitsune

Well I would use stock units if I could find them. and if the dealership didnt want a grand a pop. I'll keep looking around more. I don't plan on heavy upgrades anytime soon unless I end up upgrading some parts during the rebuild.