Check out what I got
#126
ABS isn't related at all to the transmission. Check fluid level and bleed all bleed points... 4 calipers + ABS unit under the panel behind the passenger's seat. (Start furthest from reservoir, progressively getting closer, do ABS unit last.)
If fluid is fine, you may have a bad ABS sensor, ABS unit, solenoid, etc.
If fluid is fine, you may have a bad ABS sensor, ABS unit, solenoid, etc.
Last edited by ZLover4Life; 09-18-2010 at 06:03 PM. Reason: typo fixed
#129
lol Actually I was thanking you for telling me where it was at.
EDIT: I got bored and looked up that flywheel. it looks like its something from "F1 Racing Technology" a 1 piece chromoly lightened flywheel. Anyone ever head of them?
EDIT: I got bored and looked up that flywheel. it looks like its something from "F1 Racing Technology" a 1 piece chromoly lightened flywheel. Anyone ever head of them?
Last edited by BlueKitsune; 09-18-2010 at 08:26 PM.
#130
I was researching them for a vg35 build using the TT crank/oil pump and haven't heard anything bad, I called a machinist in LA who said he had balanced a few and they where fairly close to already balanced, so quality control can't be that bad.
#132
#134
For the feel and capacity. after going with an unsprung clutch you will never go with a sprung clutch ever again. with a solid hub disk you don't get that sloppy, RPM's are dropping but the car isn't moving feeling when you are slipping it. It's you slip it, the car starts moving, no dead spot no need to try and guess how much RPM you need to keep it from stalling in traffic...etc I have yet to have a clutch in any car feel harsh to drive, minus the dump trucks and semi's.
#136
How hard would it be to find a new radiator support, then remove the old one and install the new one.
I'm talking about that cross member that the hood latch brace bolts to at the bottom and what the radiator sits on. that entire piece is all mangled.
I'm talking about that cross member that the hood latch brace bolts to at the bottom and what the radiator sits on. that entire piece is all mangled.
#137
Cut them out and fabricate bolt in ones from scratch. You could also make the radiator tilt forward to make working on the motor easier.
#139
I'm thinking of selling everything I've taken out of my Z right now (Engine ECU Turbos Transmission ect) Sense I'm going to buy an entire front clip. any ideas if I could get enough out of that stuff to put a fair dent in the cost of a front clip? I actually found the engine itself is probably ok, but I know one turbo is shot. the core of it anyways.
#140
I'm thinking of selling everything I've taken out of my Z right now (Engine ECU Turbos Transmission ect) Sense I'm going to buy an entire front clip. any ideas if I could get enough out of that stuff to put a fair dent in the cost of a front clip? I actually found the engine itself is probably ok, but I know one turbo is shot. the core of it anyways.
#142
#143
I was actually talking about my 280ZX stuff
https://www.zdriver.com/forums/sale-view-all-69/240z-280z-280zx-parts-30837/
I haven't put up my 300Zx stuff as I'm not sure what it SHOULD keep other then the maf
https://www.zdriver.com/forums/sale-view-all-69/240z-280z-280zx-parts-30837/
I haven't put up my 300Zx stuff as I'm not sure what it SHOULD keep other then the maf
#144
you should get the High 5 set up.. Unsprung 5 puck clutch, that has minimal clutch chatter, very pleasant clutch to drive look it up on TT.net i can get you the best deal guaranteed. im the only other SZ Authorized dealer in the USA!
#145
Oh sweet! When I can get my front clip I'll let you know so I can get a good clutch then!
For now my Z32 will be stored outside for winter while my rust prone 280ZX sleeps in the shop.
Idk what I'm gonna drive for winter
For now my Z32 will be stored outside for winter while my rust prone 280ZX sleeps in the shop.
Idk what I'm gonna drive for winter
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