Check out what I got
08-19-2010, 07:41 PM
#27
Intrawebz Wizard
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Ah, but right now I'm kinda on a budget and I dont want to blow a few grand on an overkill ICs when cheap stock ICs will do the job just fine. But if I cant find them then I'll get the upgraded ones.
08-20-2010, 12:02 PM
#28
Intrawebz Wizard
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Should I be worried that this Z doesn't have its bypass valves still? I'm not gonna blow anything up w/o them am I? I'm not sure but if their like blow off valves but if they are then I should probably find a set of the bypass valves.
Also I've been reading around a bit and found that its really work my time to upgrade the exhaust a bit, along with delete quite a few things mainly the EGR valve. Correct? I'm just covering my bases and trying not to be an idiot. lol
Also I've been reading around a bit and found that its really work my time to upgrade the exhaust a bit, along with delete quite a few things mainly the EGR valve. Correct? I'm just covering my bases and trying not to be an idiot. lol
08-20-2010, 01:07 PM
#29
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You mean it doesn't have the stock recirculation valves? You need some kind of pressure relief system, be it blow off valves or recirculation valves (turbo life is greatly reduced without them). Recirculation valves are more performance-oriented, blow off valves are for people who want attention, by the way.
And yes, I'd absolutely delete the EGR system. Not only is it generally useless on the Z32, but with the quality installation in that motor, it could be causing problems. (In improperly routed vacuum system to the EGR valve can cause catastrophic failure.)
And yes, I'd absolutely delete the EGR system. Not only is it generally useless on the Z32, but with the quality installation in that motor, it could be causing problems. (In improperly routed vacuum system to the EGR valve can cause catastrophic failure.)
08-20-2010, 05:40 PM
#30
Intrawebz Wizard
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Ya it has nothing of that sorta at all. Maybe thats why one blew a seal? And on that note, what recommendations on something like that do you suggest? I do think the hiss from BOVs are neat, I'd rather build this properly.
And alright, the delete kit has been added to the parts list, thats growing insanely fast...
And alright, the delete kit has been added to the parts list, thats growing insanely fast...
08-20-2010, 06:34 PM
#31
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Stock recirculation valves are more than sufficient for just about any build... Greg Dupree still used stock valves when he began running 9s.
I'm partial to HKS SSQVs as well, as you can run them as a blow off or recirculation valve. HKS just makes some quality stuff, in general.
I'm partial to HKS SSQVs as well, as you can run them as a blow off or recirculation valve. HKS just makes some quality stuff, in general.
08-20-2010, 06:36 PM
#32
Intrawebz Wizard
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Ah well again, if I had stock, I'd be running stock lol Ugh this is nuts its starting to look like I'd be better off just buying a good TT as it would be cheaper then fixing this thing.
08-20-2010, 09:28 PM
#34
Intrawebz Wizard
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Oh. I see. I like that idea. its cheaper too lol
Well I've been toying with that Z fixing vac lines, deleting crap, ect and I started it up. And it ran fine! no smoke, no odd smells coolant isnt bubbling. So I drained and refilled the oil and coolant and its not mixing anymore. I'm wondering if something didnt get crossed that I put right after I mess with all this stuff I thought I was just messing with vac lines...
Either way it runs and doesn't stumble anymore.... I am confused yet again.... I need a good FSM for the right year, whichever that is.
Well I've been toying with that Z fixing vac lines, deleting crap, ect and I started it up. And it ran fine! no smoke, no odd smells coolant isnt bubbling. So I drained and refilled the oil and coolant and its not mixing anymore. I'm wondering if something didnt get crossed that I put right after I mess with all this stuff I thought I was just messing with vac lines...
Either way it runs and doesn't stumble anymore.... I am confused yet again.... I need a good FSM for the right year, whichever that is.
08-20-2010, 09:44 PM
#35
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Changes were minor until 96 when OBDII was added and VTC was dropped... check the injector type. If it's the early style, get any 91-93 FSM (90 is discontinued), else, get a 94-95 FSM.
Do a compression test, though... make sure that engine doesn't need to come out.
Did you delete the EGR before it started running better?
Do a compression test, though... make sure that engine doesn't need to come out.
Did you delete the EGR before it started running better?
08-20-2010, 09:58 PM
#36
Intrawebz Wizard
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I messed with some vac lines that were by the EGR that seemed capped off oddly. I was actually removing what was left of the...uh... damnit I forgot the name. The valves the pump air into the main cats. The valves in the engine bay where gone but the vac lines left over where still hooked up to strange places.
And its an early VG then as it has the old styled Bosh connectors with the damned annoying wire clip.
And I'll see if I can rent one tomorrow and to a test.
And its an early VG then as it has the old styled Bosh connectors with the damned annoying wire clip.
And I'll see if I can rent one tomorrow and to a test.
08-20-2010, 10:51 PM
#37
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AIVs... air induction valves.
I was just thinking that if the EGR was installed and vacuum lines mis-routed, it could allow exhaust gasses in the engine during acceleration, which will increase temperatures... (This is why I think it's a better idea to remove it than to deal with it. The risks FAR outweigh the rewards on the Z32.)
I was just thinking that if the EGR was installed and vacuum lines mis-routed, it could allow exhaust gasses in the engine during acceleration, which will increase temperatures... (This is why I think it's a better idea to remove it than to deal with it. The risks FAR outweigh the rewards on the Z32.)
08-21-2010, 01:22 AM
#38
Intrawebz Wizard
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Yes AIVs Thank you. Most of the engine bay system is gone. Actually all of it is now thanks to me and the Z idles MUCH better now. The lines to before the main cats and crap in the fenders are still there tho.
And When I had this engine pulled before when I was doing the trans swap I told him to spend the $40 and get the kit its really worth every penny. but no he didnt care. bleh
even the MBC kit was installed wrong. Only one Turbo was boosting at 8 the other at 5. I'm going to go over the entire system and make sure everything is hooked up right.
Oh and what kind compression should I be looking for? 185 ish?
EDIT: When you know what your looking for in what goes where its amazing whats all screwed up. I'm shocked this thing ever ran right... What it looks like was the coolant overflow was hooked up wrong(take a guess where!), along with a bad PCV system so oil and coolant mixing with the stock boost psi. would explain the bubbling too. then the EGR being stock open caused the overheat. I KNEW I was looking for something but I didnt know what! Yes I'm working on my Z at 2:30am I'm going to bed before I do any stupid mistakes.
And When I had this engine pulled before when I was doing the trans swap I told him to spend the $40 and get the kit its really worth every penny. but no he didnt care. bleh
even the MBC kit was installed wrong. Only one Turbo was boosting at 8 the other at 5. I'm going to go over the entire system and make sure everything is hooked up right.
Oh and what kind compression should I be looking for? 185 ish?
EDIT: When you know what your looking for in what goes where its amazing whats all screwed up. I'm shocked this thing ever ran right... What it looks like was the coolant overflow was hooked up wrong(take a guess where!), along with a bad PCV system so oil and coolant mixing with the stock boost psi. would explain the bubbling too. then the EGR being stock open caused the overheat. I KNEW I was looking for something but I didnt know what! Yes I'm working on my Z at 2:30am I'm going to bed before I do any stupid mistakes.
Last edited by BlueKitsune; 08-21-2010 at 01:32 AM.
08-21-2010, 10:25 AM
#39
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Dude, you *really* need to familiarize yourself with TwinTurbo.NET. And now that you own a Twin Turbo, you have no excuse.
From TT.NET FAQ
From TT.NET FAQ
08-21-2010, 01:50 PM
#42
Intrawebz Wizard
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Checked Oreillys, theirs wast rented out, NAPA doesnt loan and theirs was a small fortune to buy. Parts plus didnt have one. and... thats the only car shops here that has stuff like that. thats even still open.
08-21-2010, 07:24 PM
#44
Intrawebz Wizard
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Thats gotta wait till payday.
Right now I'm trying to hunt down a weird bug over everything lights/radio in the car that should have a constant 12v is barely getting anything.... actually more like nothing.
Right now I'm trying to hunt down a weird bug over everything lights/radio in the car that should have a constant 12v is barely getting anything.... actually more like nothing.
08-21-2010, 07:39 PM
#45
Intrawebz Wizard
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Well I just found out what that white wire that was 12+ volts goes to....
Or I think. it branches off the same wire that goes down to the starter. where does that go....
Or I think. it branches off the same wire that goes down to the starter. where does that go....
Last edited by BlueKitsune; 08-21-2010 at 07:44 PM.
08-21-2010, 09:18 PM
#47
Intrawebz Wizard
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... Okay
Its in the passenger side of the engine bay next to the battery, this white wire is coming off of the positive cable that runs down to the starter. I have NO idea where this wire goes, but I think it has to do with why the map light, dome lamp, floor lights, and radio have no constant +12 at any time.
Its in the passenger side of the engine bay next to the battery, this white wire is coming off of the positive cable that runs down to the starter. I have NO idea where this wire goes, but I think it has to do with why the map light, dome lamp, floor lights, and radio have no constant +12 at any time.
08-22-2010, 02:23 AM
#48
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... Okay
Its in the passenger side of the engine bay next to the battery, this white wire is coming off of the positive cable that runs down to the starter. I have NO idea where this wire goes, but I think it has to do with why the map light, dome lamp, floor lights, and radio have no constant +12 at any time.
Its in the passenger side of the engine bay next to the battery, this white wire is coming off of the positive cable that runs down to the starter. I have NO idea where this wire goes, but I think it has to do with why the map light, dome lamp, floor lights, and radio have no constant +12 at any time.
08-22-2010, 08:49 PM
#50
Intrawebz Wizard
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Well I've been messing around with this Z all day, and I can not find where this weird wire would have gone at all. So I just started cleaning things under the car, theres an oil leak somewhere but I cant pin point where just yet. I also deleted the CC canister as it wasn't even hooked up.
I'm amazed how many little things there is with this car thats not even hooked up right or isnt hooked up at all.
I'm amazed how many little things there is with this car thats not even hooked up right or isnt hooked up at all.
Last edited by BlueKitsune; 08-22-2010 at 08:59 PM.
