snwbrderphat540

its totally cool man, well i would use premium anyways, in any performance car where the compression is going to be abouve 10:1 the knock will start to show on lower grade fuels, i noticed it in my NA 300zx with a 10.5:1 CR. i also finally checked teh miles on both my s30 and the s130 engine. lol. dont ask why i did it now so far down the line, hehe. the s130 engine has only 120k on the motor, i think it was 120,143 miles. which makes it officially the lowest milage car i have ever owned, which is amazing since its also the oldest, the s30 chases read 24356. which given it condition and such im gonna assume its only at 124k an not 200. but i could be wrong, however i doubt it.... now if you dont mind im gonna go put up the driveshaft if the garage floor is dry and finish up my.... detailing.... yes detailing.

NismoPick

SNW & WildmaN... read this: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread...t=stock+octane

Enjoy these:

Bleach

The 280ZX turbo FSM says 87 octaine is fine.

My gauge reads just the first green bar in the Rich area under full boost. So looks like it runs on the rich side to avoid knocking. You 'should' be ok running low octaine fuel. I run 92 because I have other issues and I get boost spikes to 9psi and such.... don't wanna talk about it right now...

snwbrderphat540

i still like my premium fuel.... and i to have an A/F gauge just chillen right now. its the autometer one with the silver bezle and black face, its digital, narrow band of coarse but i dont got money to go to wideband O2 sensor anywho. now anyways. plus for what im doing it will be fine. what type of A/F gauge do you have?

oh and im almost done with my detailing, and an unexpected result came about, and i dont think i like it. will post pics later today most likely.

EDIT: and i meant to get colder plugs, but i forgot to do that when i ordered them doh!

Bleach

I have the (narrow band single wire) silver face Autometer gauge. It has the flashy lights that go in a circle. Summit Racing part number ATM-4375

Mine stays pretty consistant when the engine is cold but once it warms up it bounces around a bit. Stays in stoich and drops to lean and back quite often. I take it that the drop to lean is just a bad signal. I should take some videos.

RodMoyes

Rice much?

snwbrderphat540

you and me got the same thing, different guage face though. its a nice well working gauge, my friend has one in his talon, they dont read for **** unless under a load then they balance out and start to actually read something.

Bleach

do you even know what that means?

That location is the easiest to see and close to the other factory gauges

RodMoyes

I bust your bawlz cuz I like you...




Rod.

Bleach

ok good... so I won't have to say anything about your muffler and red calipers...

snwbrderphat540

finally got soem reall wrenching done today... alot of progeress actually. im gonna post my awesome pictures in time progression format. and then i got 2 questions for you.

snwbrderphat540

so i started out after removing the intake and exhaust so i can change teh gasket and scrub the engine. it needed a bath. so using a small box cutter a tooth brush brake cleaner/degreaser and a steady supply of water. i went to town on this bad boy. also a little sand paper.
before anything was off (original engine)


then i continued to remove everything i could from the engine so it could get its long earned bath

eewww greasy


well, i knew i was going to paint it with a 1500 degree seramic paint, i just couldnt decide what. not black cause teh engine compartment is black. not blue becasue the blues they offered sucked. orange and red are muscle car block colors... so i was left with grey. or.... what i thought was grey by the look of the paint cap. well. needless to say it was definatly not grey and i ended up with this bling *** engine


yeah.. it was wierd but catchy... i couldnt tell for **** if i liked it. well. i decided i dont care cause im putting stuff on it. and so i started to bolt junk back up

snwbrderphat540

alrighty. so this is the sight you see when you peak threw the grill


some motore pics




well. look how close this fit is between the tranny/oilpan/block and the mountings for the tie rod.. i had less than a 1/4 inch on each side. close call.


alright now for two questions, one, see this bracket on the charge pipe for the turbo to the T/B well, as you can see it wont connect to the compressor outlet on teh turbo, that braket hits that setup on the intake manifold

my questions is... wtf is it and can i remove it?


ok and now. there was a hose connected to teh bottom of the intake mani that had a metal elbow attatched to it that jsut shoved into the block as follows:

hole:


hole in block


so what is that and what does it do. cause with the turbo where it is i cant use it and will have to block it off on the intake and block. just making sure it aint no big.

and if any of this has to do with emmisions so be it. no more emmisions in IL besides OBDII lol

RodMoyes

...Exactly

snwbrderphat540

ep ep... we had our fun, back to business till i get some answers boys. then you can go ahead and have fun in my thread again. i dont mind.

entropy31

wait, wtf????? did snw actually just tell someone to get back on topic?????? sign of the appocalypse.

RodMoyes

I KNOW you're not talkin' to me...

Mr. Pot, I'd like you to meet my friend Mr. Kettle...


Suckadon'ttellmemybidness!

NismoPick

Hey SNW... are you using the stock turbo exhaust manifold on that round port head???

snwbrderphat540

maybe..... man what else do you want me to do for now? i cant just go out and buy a head with my current fundage right now. besides the squares are larger than the circles so it should not restrict flow any. also, i need to know if i can remove that assembly i have pictured. cause im gonna do it. IM GONNA!

EDIT: you know, thanks alot nismo, now im gonna be thinking about that all the time. it wasnt even a thought in my head until you mentioned it. GRRR!!!! you better just be being slightly sarcastic or something...

NismoPick

#1... Cut the bracket on the J-pipe.

#2... The hole in the block goes to the pcv valve on the bottom of the intake.

NismoPick

If you say the manifold ports are bigger than the head ports... so it is.

snwbrderphat540

fine ill cut the Jpipe bracket. i guess that would make more logic. and hmm.... think ill cause any problems eliminating the PCV? cause... im gonna have to otherwise get a new intake manifold.

and you didnt know the mani ports her larger than the head ports? man, dont ever scare me like that again. lol

NismoPick

They put a PCV valve on engines for a reason. Put the connector pipes back in the intake & block, connect them w/ a hose.

That doesn't mean you SHOULD do it tho. There's also a reason why Nissan used square ported head ports w/ square ported exhaust manifolds.

snwbrderphat540

doesnt mean i shouldnt. i just want to make sure nothing seriously detramental is gonna come from this. any who.

they put EGR's on cars and that is more than removable. stupid stupid stuff. and ok enough about the exhuast mani ill be fine. ill prolly change heads on later on. that is if i keep the car. i do like money you know. lol. well,i guess im gonna have to get some serious ingenuity to get the PCV hooked back up cause it is RIGHT where the Jpipe connects to the turbo.... GRR.... well, at least im havin fun. keeping busy. it is my spring break after all what else am i gonna do.

snwbrderphat540

ok ok.... so i blocked off my EGR, and i still ahve the hole to block off in the bottom of the intake mani were the EGR used to connect to the downpipe. now, i remembered what PCV stood for and uh, yeah, definatly want a PCV valve. lol. so my question is, can i jsut relocate where the PCV hose connects to the inatke mani? cuase all it is doing is using it to create a vacume in the crank case. so could i lets say, connect the PCV hose to where the EGR used to be?