TURBO questions
#26
Originally Posted by KTM200-280zxt
So you need a tps also? Do you want me to just send an entire throttle body or do you need the plug? I may not have the plug. For the distributor its in super nice shape, just throw a new cap/rotor on it to be safe. Just let me know exactly what you need and I will throw em in a box and get the shipping wheight.
Rob
Rob
#27
TPS is the same. NA has three positions but the 3rd position is unused when installed on a turbo engine.
Little known fact: Bleach is using an NA TPS on his turbo engine (-5hp)
You need the entire 1982-83 distributor. The round plug will go to the dizzy.
Also, Nissan recomends to replace your turbo oil feed line every 100K miles and/or every time you replace the turbo. That is why I'm replacing mine with a SS unit. Then I can just swap out the SS line with a new $40 line each time I want to replace it. Of course, buying all the end connectors is another $40 and a big hassle... I haven't even gotten back to that project so I'm still using the old Nissan steel line.
A new stock steel oil feed line from Nissan is about $85
Little known fact: Bleach is using an NA TPS on his turbo engine (-5hp)
You need the entire 1982-83 distributor. The round plug will go to the dizzy.
Also, Nissan recomends to replace your turbo oil feed line every 100K miles and/or every time you replace the turbo. That is why I'm replacing mine with a SS unit. Then I can just swap out the SS line with a new $40 line each time I want to replace it. Of course, buying all the end connectors is another $40 and a big hassle... I haven't even gotten back to that project so I'm still using the old Nissan steel line.
A new stock steel oil feed line from Nissan is about $85
#28
well... i hear the TPS no work so hot with turbo... so if you got it KTM i guess send it but more interested in the distributor and i hapen to have a new cap rotor NGK plugs and taylor hi-pro wires . you wouldnt happen to have a spare turbo coil with ignitor on it still by chance woulda ya ktm? and thanks you saved me from suicide lol... but seriously... haha
#32
hey, since it used to be NA i have a cold start valve, if i obviously dont plug it in and use a turbo fuel rail, it will be fine right? it wont do anything will it just sitting there other than hold the vacumme, and i realized something today, the guy i got the ZX from said it had a bad FPR on it, well, i think the problem was that it didnt have a FPR on it lol. goof thing ktm sent me his old fuel rail. i dont know how he has all these parts! lol.
oh and also, other than being in a diff place, is there any difference between the turbo and NA ignitor?
oh and also, other than being in a diff place, is there any difference between the turbo and NA ignitor?
#33
oh one more thing... has any one here removed the oil pan with the engine in teh car? it looks doable but at the same time it looks liek it could be some trouble. cause i need to change oil pans plus i got a new gasket for that shizzle.... and changing the head gasket looks like it might be a little more work than i thought. lol.... and removing the original gasket from the vavle cover was a bitch.... holy hell! but i did it.
#34
Yes the cold start valve will be fine as a plug in the intake manifold. You can also hook it up later to add fuel to your dry nitrous setup
I tried to remove the oil pan with the engine in the car. I was unsuccesful. I unbolted the engine mounts and lifted the engine until the transmission hit the top of the tunnel... still not enough room to get it out from around the oil pickup. But, I was able to work the new gasket in there. That was the point fo shizzzle
I tried to remove the oil pan with the engine in the car. I was unsuccesful. I unbolted the engine mounts and lifted the engine until the transmission hit the top of the tunnel... still not enough room to get it out from around the oil pickup. But, I was able to work the new gasket in there. That was the point fo shizzzle
#37
in theory you could get a wrench in there and unbolt the oil pickup. Then remove the pan and pickup.
Set your replacement pan under the car, drop the oil pickup inside it... then with the pan under the engine (getting in your way) somehow put a new gasket on the oil pickup and bolt it on. then work the new oil pan gasket under the oil pickup (easy), set it in place and bolt the oil pan on.
Be very careful not to over torque those small bolts on teh oil pan. They don't need to be very tight, that's why there are a lot of them. I snapped a couple on my NA engine but I just left it as it was. It only leaked a very small amount with the new gasket.
Set your replacement pan under the car, drop the oil pickup inside it... then with the pan under the engine (getting in your way) somehow put a new gasket on the oil pickup and bolt it on. then work the new oil pan gasket under the oil pickup (easy), set it in place and bolt the oil pan on.
Be very careful not to over torque those small bolts on teh oil pan. They don't need to be very tight, that's why there are a lot of them. I snapped a couple on my NA engine but I just left it as it was. It only leaked a very small amount with the new gasket.
#38
nope your wrong.. slid right the **** out. maybe the s30 has a lil more clearance. but all i got left from my parts to install is the exhast (with turbo and down pipe and o3 sensor in already) and intak manifold with new gasket. a coupl vacumme houses and thats about it for the hard work... then its drive shaft a few fuel lines electrical lines run the EFI harness and find a ****in fuel pump now casue my dad thouht it would be a good idea to take mine off the ZX...... bastard. oh and install fuel rail... and await my distributor come if rob is still commin threw.. you there man? lol
#43
Actually, its the steering crossmember that is the issue with the oil pan so the fact that it sets in the S30 chassis is the difference.
Anyway, is that the F54 block youre turboing??? 8.8:1 compression. That'll be sweet as long as you're not going for really high boost.
Anyway, is that the F54 block youre turboing??? 8.8:1 compression. That'll be sweet as long as you're not going for really high boost.
#44
nope nothin really high, gonna stick wtih the stock 7 psi for now, once i got my intercooler in there, ill think about approaching 10.
but yeah, only 8.8:1 compression huh? thats a pretty good CR ratio, 8.5:1 is average turbo CR but 8.8 aint far off and if anything, my shizzle will just spool faster.
but yeah, only 8.8:1 compression huh? thats a pretty good CR ratio, 8.5:1 is average turbo CR but 8.8 aint far off and if anything, my shizzle will just spool faster.
Last edited by snwbrderphat540; 03-02-2007 at 01:40 PM.
#45
sounds good to me. 10psi or less should be fine.
the higher compression will yield much higher horsepower per psi compared to the factory turbo engine.
I'd suggest you look into better fuel management. Megasquirt would be good but the Z31 turbo ECU swap is cheap and 'easy' (I haven't done it myself yet)
The stock ECU runs a little rich under boost anyway... but still, its a crappy system
the higher compression will yield much higher horsepower per psi compared to the factory turbo engine.
I'd suggest you look into better fuel management. Megasquirt would be good but the Z31 turbo ECU swap is cheap and 'easy' (I haven't done it myself yet)
The stock ECU runs a little rich under boost anyway... but still, its a crappy system
#46
Originally Posted by snwbrderphat540
nope nothin really high, gonna stick wtih the stock 7 psi for now, once i got my intercooler in there, ill think about approaching 10.
#48
meh that taint to much. but like i said, intercooled, and approach 10psi. not just gonna set it there and hope for the best. lol
and for fuel management, if im at that point and havent gotten around to megasquirt, ill get an SAFC and tehn put my pall net rail one wiht the DSM injector that my buddies got lying around from there cars, and for sure premium only, maybe ill steal my friends racing fuel lol. its like 108 octane or something around that, still unleaded. and ping, haha, lets hope we dont hear the ping, that or i could get a knock sensor and the SAFC would monitor that for me to if it starts getting redic.
and for fuel management, if im at that point and havent gotten around to megasquirt, ill get an SAFC and tehn put my pall net rail one wiht the DSM injector that my buddies got lying around from there cars, and for sure premium only, maybe ill steal my friends racing fuel lol. its like 108 octane or something around that, still unleaded. and ping, haha, lets hope we dont hear the ping, that or i could get a knock sensor and the SAFC would monitor that for me to if it starts getting redic.
Last edited by snwbrderphat540; 03-02-2007 at 01:49 PM.
#49
Originally Posted by snwbrderphat540
meh that taint to much. but like i said, intercooled, and approach 10psi. not just gonna set it there and hope for the best. lol
and for fuel management, if im at that point and havent gotten around to megasquirt, ill get an SAFC and tehn put my pall net rail one wiht the DSM injector that my buddies got lying around from there cars, and for sure premium only, maybe ill steal my friends racing fuel lol. its like 108 octane or something around that, still unleaded. and ping, haha, lets hope we dont hear the ping, that or i could get a knock sensor and the SAFC would monitor that for me to if it starts getting redic.
and for fuel management, if im at that point and havent gotten around to megasquirt, ill get an SAFC and tehn put my pall net rail one wiht the DSM injector that my buddies got lying around from there cars, and for sure premium only, maybe ill steal my friends racing fuel lol. its like 108 octane or something around that, still unleaded. and ping, haha, lets hope we dont hear the ping, that or i could get a knock sensor and the SAFC would monitor that for me to if it starts getting redic.
#50
Hey now that we have mentioned fuel. When I do do my turbo swap running stock (7psi), is the low grade allright? Or do I need to put higher grade in? Just curious, and not to jack your thread snow. But it is on your topic for the most part.