well, this has absolutely nothing to do with lady, but i just got a 1987 acura integra for free. run, drives, has good brakes, etc....just no tag or title. good runnin beater...F-f-f-f-freebie!

 

i say roll it. just go nuts and hit ****. tag it all up have a couple friends do the same with a near free or free car and go play public bumper cars. thats what i would do

 

get the bitch registered

 

working on title and registration. maybe even clean it up a little and sell it for z-parts.

 

Temporary, possibly permanent Dashboard/guage solution panel. Bolts to the Heater core housing bolts.

12.5 " across the top.
5.5 " across the bottom
14 " tall

Speed and tach are 3 3/8 "
All other guages are 2 1/16"

Image is only guesstimatedly to scale.

 

anybody have a picture of the back of the blinker/dimmer switch? I've got a green wire with a black stripe on it running to dimmer switch and i have no idea where it is supposed to go. looks like the soulder broke.

 

Self help. So far so good. a few pages in and i already know more than i started with. wiring the ignition and/or a start button is far less intimidating now.

 

E-Z Wiring 12 circuit wiring harness arrives May 6th. Wish me luck.

 

Break a leg.

 

Check Yo Self Foo!!!!

 

the wires come pre-bundled into the various harnesses (IE: rear lights, dash, enginebay) Just got done deviding the harnesses into bundles for each switch, light cluster, and guage. Cars cleaned out. Just need to fab me up a switch panel and dash and it'll be time to start hooking stuff up. Ign and charging system first, then whatever else i can without the guages. Still need to order those.

 

threw out that panel i was gonna use and went to lowes and got some angle aluminum and started building a dash board. Its coming along nicely. Frame should be finished tomorrow. Whole thing weighs less than 5 lbs.

 

Iz yo camurah broked? Where's the pics?

 

pics or bust bro!!!!!! ARGH!!!!!!

 

Anyone know the thread pattern on the 280zx shifter handle? Bought a hurst shift **** and they didn't have the right adapter, so i'm gonna hit up Napa and see if they have it. Just need to know the specs to ask them for. I'm still searching, just wanted to see if anyone on here knew off hand what it was.

 

If you mean the end the **** screws on it is 8mm-1.25

 

Thank you Theramz. That is exactly what i needed to know. You are very awsome.

 

Wow man...sounds like you are making quite alot of progress. And I love wiring..if I was near you. I would give you a hand, and be having a blast. I am going to totally redo the wiring in my '82. When I do the turbo conversion restoration. Good luck bro'. And yeah send us some pics man. We want to see..especially your dashboard.

 

Finally started laying the wires out today. They're routed to thier respective areas of the the car. Started late in the day so not much got done other than choosing the paths everything was going to be routed along. Cut crimped and routed all the wires for the dimmer switch. and with that small victory, i am less afraid of the wiring.

Got fed up real quick with trying to find the right adapter for the shifter, so i said **** it, found a bolt that was a close fit to the Pistol grip and would take one of the adapters that came in the package, went to a machine shop and had them cut the top of the shifter off and weld the bolt on in its place. I expected it to look like crap but the guy at the machine shop did an awsome job. it looks like it came with that thread pattern on it from the factory.

Invest in some good power tools. Dewalt 18v battery powerd angle grinder/cut off wheel. I will be investing in more Dewalt products. Made short work of the spare tire well. Making room for a fuel cell. Yes, i will get pictures ASAP.

Taking suggestions for fuel cells. I've been eyeballing FuelSafe, but they don't list any of thier prices so i guess that means they're gonna want my left nut for it. And also Jegs. But i'm open to suggestions.

Edit: Quick question. If i get an aftermarket speedometer, what would i have to do to make sure it is accurate? New cabel? Different gears or cogs? Cause right now, i'm jimmy rigging my stock speedo into/onto the new dash until i can find a black faced one with an orange needle to replace it that will be accurate. Never had to replace or calibrate a speedometer before so i haven't a clue on the subject, and i'm not quite sure they write books about it. I'll search around.

 

Most aftermarket speedos have settings to calibrate it to your diff ratio.

 

got my blinker switch, ignition switch and headlight switch wired. little by little. second job eats up all my spare time though. got parts gallore and not so much time to install them. But i shall not stop.

 

oh man. i don't know which post the alternator exciter and alternator power wires go to. can yall clue me in here?

There was also some other wires that went to the alternator in the stock harness, but they weren't included in the new harness. What were they? and what were they for?

Edit: i also hooked my battery up (pretty much dead from non-use) and the wires to the starter and such to test my ignition switch. the circuit completes and the starter engaged for a second then clicked like they do when the battery doesn't have enough UMPH left to turn it over, but i think i got all that wiring correct, so i'm feelin good about that. just need to know what to do about the alternator. gonna hit my books up again to see if they can help me out, but if yall already know, then i'd appreciate it if yall would point me in the right direction.

That little clicking starter has given me even more hope. and a little less patience. Like when you first see the finish line, but i'm still gonna do it right anyway.

 

There's only one post for the + power wire to the battery.... The thick white wire connects to it.

 

sorry about that. i meant on the back of the alternator. theres a bolt with a nut on it, then a screw that both had wires connected to them originally. i just don't know which is which. i know how the battery works. ^_^

 

Yeah... I'm saying there's only one + post on the alternator... you connect the white power wire to it (white wire leads to the battery). It doesn't matter where the diode bolts on as long as it's on the alternator body.