theramz

I know about adaptors noob, I made my own about 4 years ago. They are +25mm for my Revo 17s. I think 32mm puts the center of the wheel to close to the outer bearing.

Sweets

well then .
I just got stuck on the term 'spacer' since theramz said it in his post. I knew they were adapters in the back of my head. Sorry guys.

snwbrderphat540

justin = pwnd!!!! lol lol rofl.

i wouldnt get either though. spacers are the bad ones right? cause they are the same hub center with longer studs and can cause premature bearing failure correcto? just get properly sized rims. plus, those rims are fugly man, im starting to re-think my judgement on your taste lol. the front end looks much better than it does now. MUCH better.

JPerkins

don't mean to **** on your parade snw, but i don't care if its ugly right now. Its not even half way finished. its gonna be ugly. I'm not too worried about what it looks like. i'm more concerned with stopping the rust and fixing any and all mechanical problems. after that, i'll be concerned with electrical problems. and then after that, maybe i'll start paying some serious attention to appearances. Paint stripper and paint are both cheap. so thats what i do when i run out of money for parts.

WildmaN

Wow man, love the progress you have been making. Good job dude, and keep up the good work. Oh yeah a sound clip would be friggin' sweet bro'.

snwbrderphat540

i had no parade, but if you pissed on anything of mine so help me!!! maybe you should work in a flow start from one section and work your way the other way instead of the jumbled way your doing it. you have no interior and no front and holes. lol. if your far enough on the front to have the fenders and hood on etc, than maybe you should finish it up so you can have something up front.

how long have you had this car again?

JPerkins

got it in december. or was it late november? in anycase, i didn't get to do any work on it until i got back from leave on january the 4th so, 3 months now. Working on it after work (4:30pm) and on weekends. in the parking lot most of the time, and at the Hobby shop other times. and thats doing very little during the cold season, because the hobby shop was closed for roof repair.

and if i had it my way, the hood and front fenders wouldn't be back on it yet, but you can't leave a vehicle dissassembled in the parking lot here. Government regulations and crap like that. For having to work around Government and military regs all the time, i think i've made fairly decent progress.

Sweets

Yeah, you are a lot farther along repair wise with Lady than I am with Rumble. I'd say thats amazing progress for having regulations and crap. I havent even got to do anything to Rumble yet, except a new muffler and paint the valve cover.

JPerkins

Do you have a place to work on him at your new place?

Sweets

Nope. I moved into an apartment and they dont allow you to work on vehicles in the lot. So I have to go to my dads on the weekend when I want to do stuff to it. Our lease is up in 4 months, so then we are looking for a hud house to buy in the mean time. When we get an actual house, then Rumble will be going under the knife.

JPerkins

https://pontiworld.com.au/energysusp...d7a376e8661f55

okay. anybody ever used these brand bushings before? and are they worth the asking price?

snwbrderphat540

seriously? energy suspension is the most popular bushing company in the world bro. they are amazing. though mine came with the car for free, they are GREAT! them with new springs and the car is handling like a go kart! i love it, i can turn so hard i almost lost my battery to the street and it was clamped down! lol

Sweets

Yeah, that is probably your best bet as far as bushings go. They are a great company like snw said. I dont know about THAT price though. I made some nylatron bushings for the 260z, but they broke the stock end links. I still have the bushings too. I would make some stronger end links if I were to put those on a car again. It handled really well, and decreased body roll, before the links broke.

theramz

Those are the best but you can buy them on ebay for about half. I got a set for $90.

JPerkins

Lexan front windshield. Steet legal or not? I've seen and heard of it used in race appications before, and also heard it was less likely to break or chip.

snwbrderphat540

used alot in race. i dont see why it would be illegal i know people who have done it. kinda pricey though unless your actually racing.

JPerkins

just so everyone knows. I hate wiring...Especially working behind someone else...doesn't matter who, nissan, bob, or your local electricity guy. its nothing personal, i just hate wiring. (mostly because i'm not good at it. )

just so this post is a bit productive, to power your fuse block, do you pull power directly from the hot post or do you pull it from the alternator?

Edit: no soundclip till i get the wiring fixed again.

theramz

Don't know if you are wiring from scratch or just repairing but the "B" terminal on the alternator feeds the fuse box and the fusible link to the starter. From ther it gets more complicated. You need to find a wiring diagram for the year of your car. Since you mentioned that your dash is out maybe you should buy a kit from Painles that includes everything and a diagram with all new stuff.
As for the windshield the DMV requires a DOT approved safety glass but no one will notice. Lexan is expensive and will scratch easy.

JPerkins

yeah, i've seen the painless kits, and i was actually looking at the 8 circuit t-bucket kit. all that is needed and nothing that is not. i'm just a bit apprehensive about tackling something like that on my own w/ no prior experience. But i've already gutted the stock wiring harness, so it'll have to happen anyway. question though. when i was disconnecting the old wiring harness, on the engine bay side off the firewal, there were a few strands of wire that ran to a sending unit next to the drain plug on the passenger side of the tranny. there were also two additional wires that ran further back and stopped by the far end of the tranny, but weren't connected to anything. they ended in the female end of a slide connection. i was wondering what these two sets of wires went to on the transmission.

snwbrderphat540

one i think is your reverse switch, i to have notice another set of wire on some Z trannies a little further back closer to the tail, they seem to never be hooked up to anything though when ever i run across them so i have no clue.

theramz

Those other wires are probably to the inhibitor switch for an automatic trans. It's part of the smogger engine crap they put on. Not sure if they all had the same harness in '74. I would definitely get the painless kit. I'd go with the 12 circuit just in case you want to add AC or Megasquirt. The new relays and color code/labled wires make it the only way to go. It will save you a lot of grief.

JPerkins

i've got carbs, not injectors. but i guess a 12-circuit wouldn't be a bad idea, just in case i decide to do an engine swap later-on, then i won't have to add a different fuse block. progress may or maynot pick-up soon. got a second job lined up. hopefully i'll be able to afford more parts. heh, just keep pluckin away at it. progress is never fast enough.

theramz

This might help, get the pdf and the gif
http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electrical.htm

JPerkins

thanks Theramz.

Justin, delete some of your PMs. your storage is full dude.

Sweets

haha, ok.

There was just an unplugged connector behind the door panel that was making my window not work, so thats fixed now. I just need an air dam now.