dude give it up, he obviously doesn't want to post pics, and if YOU quit egging him on, he probably WOULD "stfu" like you want him to.

 

this is more about him making bullshit claims, like going from 9's to 7's for a mere $200, or his "ran 9 flat" car. (supposedly a 32 ford) ontop of that he probably thinks I'm just some little bitch who doesnt know ****, because I'm not 47 years old. experience doesnt make up for knowledge. he refuses to back up any of his claims, he avoids any question i ask like the plague (because he obviously has no idea whats involved when building a car) he thinks (once again from inexperience) that GM's LSx series is just catching up to ford, although GM has been out performing ford both in technology and performance since the 60's. And last but not least

once again, anyone who knows anything about building cars, refrains from using the word "performance" as its to bland and too vague.

this guy is most likelly just a troll starting ****, who will never be able to drive the car without someone paying someone to build it for him.

 

also, if i STFU, then he will think he wins.

 

oh yea, because some guy's opinion who you will most likely NEVER meet in your entire life should matter oh so much to you.

 

he lives in lake grove OR, hell since he gets such good gas mileage, why doesnt he come down to cali? hell heres my address..

Forrest g. Hoover
31689 calle helene
thousand palms CA 92276


(also he's been banned from hybridz twice. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread...=123559&page=3)

I was also wrong to put you with the PT cruiser enthusiast, i should have thrown you into the 5.0 mustang groupe.

 

alright, alright, alright........

atleast let me get your goals strait, you want a 1200WHP TT 35PSI 4.6L ford in a tubed out z car dragster, using a secondary stand alone EFI system thats activated when the stock EFI system (assuming the stock EFI could even handle TT's at idle) cant handle it. you also want the stand alone EFI system to be used in a closed loop system, so it is able to tune itself on the fly. you are also wanting to use an auto trans because, well an auto IS faster on a drag strip. you dont plan on running wastegates because "they do the same thing as BOV's"

all of this you are planning doing for under $10k and you want to run 9 seconds flat, while getting good gas mileage, having the car being streetable, fully licensed, registered..etc then being able to make it run 7's if you wanted to for $200? but you do not want to build a proper cage to make the car safe with the amount of speed you would be traveling, as such you would not be allowed to run past 10 seconds at any legal NHRA certified drag strip.



did i hit it on the head yet?

 

No, and as sloppy and purposefully inept as you are you never will.
I don't know why it is that you think I'd care enough to walk across the street to see either you or your stuff, I see enough of your garbage here.
Your the one saying what I can't do, that I lie, and haven't already done what you say can't be. Your problem, not mine.

 

would you like me to post where i got that conclusion? hell its all over the web and spells out quit clear.

no wonder you have been banned from so many forums....

And yes, I'm saying YOU can't do it, because you are all talk. and dont **** about what you are talking about. you bought a POS s130 2 years ago and still can't do anything with it, you just a little mustang fagot, who does nothing but talk, so go ahead lire, talk, explain to the good people of zdriver and the rest of the world for that matter how you plan to make this 35psi TT 4.6L run 9 flat so cheaply and with such good gas mileage. you seem so keen on gas mileage, you might as well just brag about that. that way atleast when you lie, people can smell the bullshit from a mile away.

 

Hoov I got you this. http://www.modularfords.com/forums/s...d.php?t=137585

 

bojo what z do u have right now? pics and vids!! I want to see this 8th wonder of the world that's >1K



you an hoov should just

 

It probably makes me just as bad, as him lying, but supports my assumptions of his supposed build.

 

I've seen TT 4.6's at the drag strips by the hundreds as well as tuned one, but this guy, is just full of ****, who does nothing but talk and points another finger, whenever someone points out the pile of bullshit he left in the corner, he has still to post one single spec to his supposed build that he's bragging about.

 

As said before, it's a 205$ ebay special, and not particularly pretty. Nothing much special about it yet.

 

so whats your build plan then? have you started spec'ing parts, like pistons, crank, cam's, rod, trans, rear end, EFI, EDIS...etc?

 

Yeah, right, I should just jump right up and tell idiots like you everything I know, so you could jump up and do the same.
Got news for ya clown, your not gonna get specs now, your not gonna get specs after it's done. All yer gonna get is time and mph. You think your so smart, give ya something to beat, besides yourself.

 

I'll tell ya this much, I HAVE about 85~90% of what I need to do it. It's gettin closer all the time.

 

Let's face it, without any proof, all this stuff is crap and very annoying.

Anyone can talk trash, not everyone can back it up.

 

here's my current engine build.

I have since gone to a 4 bolt block though and the list hasnt been updated to blower specs, but for a general idea heres the engine side of the build.

head studs
ARP 234-4301
$150

rod bolts
ARP 134-6403
$55

oil pan studs
ARP 234-1901
$35

oil pump shaft
ARP 134-7901
$12

oil pump stud
ARP 230-7001
$7

melling oil pump
melling 10550
$65

CAM KIT
comp cams k12-443-8
$909

rockers
ebay KMJ2341------------------------maybe get a comp cams kit instead?
$200

rod&main bearings
clevite CB663H & MS1038H
$120

rings
part# unknown
$250

valve cover studs
moroso 68820
$9

6.1cc 64cc bore 4.030 stroke 3.480 HG bore 4.080 w/.039 compressed thickness

head gaskets
fel-pro 1043
$100

heads
summit sum-162111
$950

intake manifold
weiand 7530
$194-------------------------optional/maybe get one used???

harmonic balancer
ATI 90001
$140

carb
proform PRO-67201
$300-600

"cloyes wear plate"
cloyes clo-9-220
$18---------------------------????

cam bearings
durabond dur-ch-8
$15

gasket kit
felpro fel-ks2600
$43

oil pan gasket
felpro fpp-1880
$43

billet main caps
milodon #mil-11150
$240

billet dizzy
MSD MSD-8362
$160-----------------------------optional

headers
hedman hed-68160
$156 w/o coating $440 with

direct port nitrous kit
#???------------------------------optional
$???

carb studs
MRG MRG-6345g
$6

filler neck
moroso MOR-63420
$56-------------------------------optional

timing cover bolts
ARP ARP-200-1501------------------optional
$11

crank scraper
spdwy 545-25800
$7

plugs/wires
???
???

exhaust manifold gaskets
autozone aluminum re-usable
$50

accusump system
$???

+ a **** ton of $$$ for machine work

 

Hmm Ok shouldn't there be 12 volts at the thermotime connector when starting? or at lest some volts...

 

Yes, both the time sw and cold injector should be hot in the start position.

 

Hmm Seems I have a problem then oh well my Z isnt hard to start. I may not worry about it

 

"i know what I'm doing"
after he told me to adjust my Idle air intake on my Z's turbo afm



bojo ur bogus until u have something to back up your batmobile Z

 

Oh I know, full, brimming even, I just wanted to show him and you what a 40k dollar engine really looked like.

 

Alright guys, what's your suggestion? I've been wanting to get myself a set of Konig Rewinds. I'm having trouble deciding on what tire size and rim size to get. I'd been thinking about the 16" but the 15" would be fine with me. It's not a huge issue, but the little I think would look good. Basically it seems like the 16s have more issues with rubbing vs. the 15s. Anyone have any opinions? My car has the tokico springs.

 

16" tires are quite pricey due to the less commonly used size. But 15" tires have too much side wall for any track / high performance use.

17" isn't an option?