lol at the 15" comment, even though 15's are more widely used than any other size wheel...

 

hey nismo, what if he uses a 15 with a tire that has kess sidewall then whats available at costco?

 

I suppose I could always look into 17". I do like the rewinds and they only seem to make those in 14-15-16" sizes. Otherwise I'll have to look into an adapater and go 5-lug I suppose. I don't know if there are many options in 17" that are 4-lug. I think Bleach and lifegrddude got those rotas in 17 though.

 

I *quit smoking today, and am fast learning the joys and pains of interval running. My lungs hate me. My first day running in years though, did 1.25 miles in 30 minutes doing interval runs. I`m gonna go cough up my lungs now.

 

You're saying 15's are more widely used ON THE TRACK than any other size?

I went to MMP (Miller Motorsports Park) two weekends ago & I think the only 15" tires I saw were on a stripped out civic. Everyone else was running 17+.

I'm running 225/55R15's which is about the lowest profile you can go w/o getting slicks, and there's way too much side wall for any track time on those tires. I was just suggesting he go w/ a larger size if he's going to spend all that $ for new wheels.

w00t for quitting the smokes!

 

205/50-15 is a pretty common size.. but narrow for most cars.

 

we'll if where talking about track spec'd parts, why would you put street tires on the track?

 

It's mainly going to be a summer street car, but every so often I would like to go do some autocross and what not. It seems like at least on tire rack, I could find more options for the 16" over the 15"s. Anyway my other concern is if you jump to 17s on an S30 won't you begin to run into rubbing, or does that basically concern the width of the tire? Maybe I'll have to get some ZG flares?

 

By the way, how do you remove the oil cooler housing or whatever from the L28ET. For right now I want to remove it and just run the oil filter like normal. It looks like that whole housing is held on by one bolt. So I'm wondering, do you remove the bolt and then tap it until it falls off, or does it screw in and the bolt kind of keeps in in place?

 

why would you want to do that now?

 

Until I can actually get the rest of the oil cooler off my 280ZX. The thing is in a garage and isn't easily accessible by a lift, and I'm having a hard time getting the hoses disconnected so I can pull it out. I'm going to go mess with it more tomorrow, but otherwise I'm thinking I may just remove the oil cooler until my next oil change or something.

By the way, the gas that was in my fuel tank was really old and smelled quite bad, you guys have any good thoughts for flushing out the lines? I don't think there should really be too much in the lines. I'm going to replace the rubber hosing. I was almost thinking of taking a gas can or something and putting like a gallon of gas mixed with injector cleaner, and hooking that up to the pump, removing the filter from the lines and just letting the pump run straight to push out anything.

 

The oil cooler adapter is held on by the center banjo bolt & a 12mm bolt on the side. If you want to remove it & still run the motor, you will have to install a hollow threaded stud for the oil filter to screw on.

As for the old gas... I'm at the same point on my 280zt ( apparently we're going at the same pace ). I think I'll do the same thing, just put a catch can at the fuel filter line, power up the fuel pump by hand, and crank out the crappy fuel.

 

you do know that you can trick the fuel pump to running when you turn the key on by disconnecting the alternator? (works on my car, at least)

 

I want the oil line adaptor and oil lines... please

 

I already had my tank cleaned out which was expensive, but it's guaranteed for life. Anyway my 280ZT is pretty much wired up, gonna go finish that up today, just have to wire up the Fuel Pump Relay, connect one more ignition switched and a few grounds. Everything else is pretty much wired up. I also made sure to bypass the external voltage regulator since I'm using the ZXT alternator. I'll have to grab a pic of the engine bay for you guys. She should be ready to roll here I'm aiming for the weekend. I don't remember, which side is the return line on the tank? I'm thinking I might just pull the return line off the tank, bypass the fuel filter and run it like that. So I clear the whole system from start to finish.

I also finally went ahead and just ordered the MSA fiberglass 240z style bumpers. Everyone I was dealing with wanted at least near $300 per bumper when they weren't even in the best of shape.

 

just cut out the stock spare tire well and install a 18 gallon fuel cell!!! I'm gained 5 inches by doing mine!

 

Hey Nismo I was curious if you've done your wiring yet. I'm just about done, pretty much everything is hooked up, except for my wire from the Fuel Pump Relay to the fuel pump. I see on my 76' it's a Green w/ Blue striped wire. I've traced it up into the front. Then it splits off a couple ways into the fuse box, into another connector etc. I checked the fuse box label and it's showing a fuse for tail lights. I don't understand how that works as it looks as if the tail light connections seem to remain separate. So I'm wondering if anyone can give me advice. Should I just cut that wire and run it into my relay, or should I just splice into that wire. Keep it connected with an extra branch off to my FPR?

 

the wiring is easier to perform on a carb'd Z sinc eyou don't have to worry about the fuel pump relay wiring and that AFM micro switch BS lol. but the 280Z is nicer since its a better rear diff setup and was already EFI so its easier to run and wire some other things also the EFI fuel tank. me and zlover4life should be finishing up the wiring on his 240Z this weekend we only got like 2 hours of work on it this past weekend. just labeled the EFI turbo harness and straightened out his engine compartment harness and he should be finishing up removing the voltage regulator. so the race is on my friends!!!!

there's me and Zlover

you duowing

nismo

and tim all doing turbo swaps.

tims already runs but not really. so first to have a properly running turbo S30 is the winner!!!! and..... GO!

 

^^^ You? When did you get another S30?

I've actually been working on my Z lately. I'll get the the ecu wiring this week sometime.

 

It's not too hard really, I pretty much have it all wired up, but like I said I held off on splicing into the wire from the fuel pump. I'm not sure if I should cut it and run it to the relay or splice the relay's wire into that wire. I'm thinking I should just cut it and run it. Actually wiring this up is really easy for the most part. I was already really familiar with the harness from doing the Z31 ECU swap and the coil wiring simply from wiring up my Mallory. I like how the coil bracket fit perfectly, I found a good spot on the inside to mount the FPR. I sorted it mostly all out before I did anything. I think I'll just cut the wire and run it into my FPR and try it. If it doesn't work that way I'll just reconnect that wire.

 

I hope that turbo Z is still at pick n' pull! I'm headed out tomorrow to get as much as I can of it (seeing as buying the entire engine is cheaper then buying all the parts separately)

 

Did you still want my P90 head? I can bring it to work if so...

 

lol, there is five wires in total to make my car run, one going from the battery to the starter, one going from the starter to the push button, one going from the push button to the battery, one going from the hot on the push button to the ign. switch and a wire going from the switch to the dizzy.

 

I think I'm going to convert and possibly have my P90A rebuilt. I mean I already bought the timeserts and crap to convert it to solid. So I figure I might as well do that and have a spare head to keep or sell.

 

Ya Actually Id like 2 to have just in case.