Wiring problem
Wiring problem
I have three sensor plugs in the back of my tt and not sure which plug goes into which. The knock sensor is one of them, but the other 2 i dont know what they are. Can anyone tell me what colored wires go to what sensor on those 3.
Are you serious? That's so vague... how are we supposed to tell you where they go?
This is why you're supposed to label EVERYTHING the first few times you disassemble things... at least until you have it memorized.
This is why you're supposed to label EVERYTHING the first few times you disassemble things... at least until you have it memorized.
You can still keep track of what connectors on the old harness went where. Most of the connectors are unique in some way (at least in their respective locations on the harness), so you could've documented which color/shape plug went where on the old harness and connected the new one accordingly. There are only two identical plugs in the engine bay that are close to each other, so ultimately, you should be able to poke around back there to find where all of those plugs go. But just so you know, I'm pretty sure there is one plug on the rear of the harness that is not used on the Z32 (that same harness is used in a lot of cars, since the VG30 was a Nissan workhorse for a long time) - it's a black rectangular shaped plug, if I recall correctly.
1 is the knock sensor, I believe the other two are O2. You absolutely should've kept track of which was which, because if you mix two up, you just switch it and the problem is solved... now you have 6 possible permutations. Without pictures, nobody can help you beyond saying that the one that is furthest to the passenger's side is the passenger's side O2 sensor.
Interesting way to solve the issue, now that I think of it...
Put the ECU into self-diagnostic mode and connect each of the plugs to one of the O2 sensors. When you stop getting a code on that specific O2 sensor, you know that one is connected right. (Don't forget - if you connect to the driver's side O2 and the passenger's side code goes away, that'd be the passenger's side connector that you connected to the driver's side O2, so swap them.) Once you have the O2 sensors in place, process of elimination tells you which one is the knock sensor. (You could also do the same with the knock sensor, but you'd still have to repeat the process for the O2 sensors, so just do those first.)
Put the ECU into self-diagnostic mode and connect each of the plugs to one of the O2 sensors. When you stop getting a code on that specific O2 sensor, you know that one is connected right. (Don't forget - if you connect to the driver's side O2 and the passenger's side code goes away, that'd be the passenger's side connector that you connected to the driver's side O2, so swap them.) Once you have the O2 sensors in place, process of elimination tells you which one is the knock sensor. (You could also do the same with the knock sensor, but you'd still have to repeat the process for the O2 sensors, so just do those first.)
K i fianlly identifird them. Ones which needs fixed cause the ground wire was cut is the knock sensor, the other 2 are the Valve timing control solenoids. Now i just gottafind out which plug goes to which cause they are all the same. Could this be the reason for the miss im getting.
Oh yeah, forgot about those plugs.
The harness itself should make it quite obvious which one goes where. One will be further to the driver's side, the other should be further to the passenger's side. I don't know if those would throw a code, but you might be able to try the process I detailed to see which one goes where.
Could it cause the miss at 3k? Possibly - there are ignition timing changes around then that would be impacted by not having the cam timing change.
The harness itself should make it quite obvious which one goes where. One will be further to the driver's side, the other should be further to the passenger's side. I don't know if those would throw a code, but you might be able to try the process I detailed to see which one goes where.
Could it cause the miss at 3k? Possibly - there are ignition timing changes around then that would be impacted by not having the cam timing change.
ahh! when i read the post i just knew that those were the ones! i was about to just skip down and suggest it, but i'm glad you found them.
how does that valve timing thing work? those little solenoids look like they just can't do anything. do they put a brake on those cam shafts so that they are behind? that just stretches the timing belt a little tiny bit? doesn't look like it's worth it to me. unless they have some super cool function that i can't even comprehend at this point.
how does that valve timing thing work? those little solenoids look like they just can't do anything. do they put a brake on those cam shafts so that they are behind? that just stretches the timing belt a little tiny bit? doesn't look like it's worth it to me. unless they have some super cool function that i can't even comprehend at this point.
Get to readin'...
http://www.twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg...msg_id=2198499
And it absolutely is worth it. More low-end power and better gas mileage.
http://www.twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg...msg_id=2198499
The VTC mechanism uses a helical gear arrangement to provide the ability of advancing the intake camshaft timing by 5 degrees. This results in an advancement of 10 crankshaft degrees (2x since the crank turns twice the rate as the cams - it is not 20 degrees as stated on BDE's website - the diagram in the FSM is showing 10 crankshaft degrees, not camshaft degrees).
The mechanism uses hydraulic pressure provided by the lubrication system and it can be enabled or disabled by way of a valve which is either open or closed based on a solenoid that the ECU controls.
The mechanism uses hydraulic pressure provided by the lubrication system and it can be enabled or disabled by way of a valve which is either open or closed based on a solenoid that the ECU controls.
very interesting. that is a pretty cool system. way more than i expected. what that never said was whether the rattle happened at idle or all the time. if it's only at idle, i'd say that's my lifter tick. it does sound to be coming more from the front end of the engine. that would save me $60 if it were.
The rattle occurs when coming down from RPM's, often during revving. And it could not be confused with lifter tick. Lifter tick is a higher pitch and RPM-related. The rattle only occurs when coming down from RPM and is just a momentary rattle while the engine winds down.
Well then it is not the VTC system.
How's your oil pressure? Sounds like the lifters aren't getting enough oil at low rpms (or they have air bubbles - easy fix)... does not mean the lifters themselves are bad. How old is the oil and how is the level?
If all of that is fine, go out around 2-4am, hop on an empty highway with a long straight stretch, punch it. If the lifters have air bubbles, the only thing that'll force them out is maintaining high rpm's in that fashion. (I don't condone breaking the law, obviously, but when I've had lifter tick, this has often solved the problem.)
How's your oil pressure? Sounds like the lifters aren't getting enough oil at low rpms (or they have air bubbles - easy fix)... does not mean the lifters themselves are bad. How old is the oil and how is the level?
If all of that is fine, go out around 2-4am, hop on an empty highway with a long straight stretch, punch it. If the lifters have air bubbles, the only thing that'll force them out is maintaining high rpm's in that fashion. (I don't condone breaking the law, obviously, but when I've had lifter tick, this has often solved the problem.)
Last edited by ZLover4Life; Dec 19, 2008 at 11:11 PM.
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