BoostforDinner

My friend got the car in trade like that. And it isn't vinyl for the paint. Its getting painted dark pearl blue with some staggard wheels. Carbon decklid, new fenders, seats, etc.

tonsoffun300zx

you should sell me the tail spoiler right now and then nobody will make fun of you any more.

hoov100

Have fun breaking wrist pins! Seriously though, do some research on why converting this motor to turbo with N/A pistons is a bad idea. These motors aren't like anything out there.

BlueKitsune

If I remember right, the safe limit of a factory rod and piston assembly is about 500HP. It wouldn't hurt to upgrade the rods and pistons.

BTW Ebay parts are a no go for a Z32, thats just asking for a world of hurt. And I hope you do a SMIC as a FMIC will block airflow to the radiator on a Z32 and lead to overheating issues. (This I've learned first hand)

Also the factory fuel injector rails on the early Z32 are a bit useless seeing as how they only take the pintel style injectors that are extremely prone to failure. You would be better off with a set of 300degree rails that hold the new injectors.

And Get a real electronic boost controller, the manual ones are prone to leaking boost by never letting the wastegate fully close.

I really suggest you stop and take some time to read up about the Z32 and its systems, maybe head over to TT.net or HybridZ and see other Z32 setups.

BoostforDinner

I think we'll be fine with e85 over 500whp. Infact we are over 340whp on a 140k mile stock bottom end 10.5:1 ej22e (ej25d twin cam heads milled .010) in my other buddy's impreza wagon with a small 13T turbo @ 17psi with just a piggyback FIC.
We'll stick with an FMIC, but going aftermarket with radiator in order to accomidate the large turbo. And my friend wants to drive around without a center grill so everyone can see the turbo so I bet that will aide in cooling.
I'll tune it with the manual controller, starting at 8psi (wastegate pressure), then 9psi, then 10psi, all the way up to 15psi in order to get the best transition into boost loads in any rpm. I've never had a problem with external gates not seating properly with manual boost controllers and I've ran some rather large exhaust housings on some of my turbos (most recent set-up included an 18cm exhaust housing on a holset H1c turbo on a 2.0l with very restrictive heads...... LAGGGY, even on e85 and the cam advanced 4*)
Our goal is make a 500+whp vg30de with a factory longblock (sans valvesprings and studs). and if we eventually blow it up..... $1,100 for another longblock

xpwarrior

Hoov is definitely right about the wrist pins. The NA wrist pins are not nearly as beefy as the TT version. This has been the downfall of all the high compression/ high boost VGs that I have read about.

BoostforDinner

Well, if we knock out a couple wrist pins, we'll know what to do different in the future. Until then we'll see what we can put down on stock internals. We'll keep everyone updated as the build continues

BlueKitsune

Ok your really stupid for ignoring some helpful advice.

So far from all you've said, You just want to try (and probably fail at) trying to boost a N/A VG30DE and then blow it up intentionally.

If you somehow manage to get this to run AND last more then 5 min I will be amazed. And I'm sure I'm not the only one that would be either.

From what you've said so far. It wont work.

NismoPick

I say let him do it...

If it all works, and the car is a reliable dd for 10-20k miles, rockin. If not, we'll see some awesome carnage (or maybe he just won't post anymore?). People seem to disappear when their projects don't work out...

Hopefully BFD will be a long time member here.

Woody75(Denver)

Sounds like I'll be seeing this Z on the local craigslist again real soon

tonsoffun300zx

sell me the spoiler before you blow the car up

BoostforDinner

Ok....let me ask this. Has anyone here have any PERSONAL experience with boosting an NA vg30de? Tonsoffun, I dont think my buddy will part with that wing. Woody75, I wouldn't hold your breath. My buddy used to have a turbo'd z31 and got rid of it and he kicks himself every day for it. Bluekitsune, from what it seems you have zero experience with boosting/tuning any vehicle? I'm not coming on here without experience turbocharging and tuning vehicles

BoostforDinner

I guess we'll be heading down to denver next week to pick up a spare NA engine

tonsoffun300zx

good you'll need it and many more just quit being cheap and buy a TT motor between two n/a motors and all the extra parts you might as well get a VG30dett and stop being difficult! so stop posting till you've actually done something and pix to prove it until then $TFU!!!

BlueKitsune

^^^ What he said.

BoostforDinner

Has ANYONE ever personally boosted an NA engine?? if not.....you should keep quiet... and quit thinking you know everything because "I read about..." or "I heard about..." If you dont have any experience, then why say anything? Dont you guys understand? We are seeing how far a stock longblock NA vg30de can be pushed..... which seems to be over the heads of most of you guys. So we are not going DETT, so $FTU....this isn't your car, this isn't your money, and this isnt your decision....
Many people (who didn't have shyt for experience...kinda like y'all) told me and my friend that factory ej22e bottom end wouldn't handle more than 275whp....and its running around at over 340whp for more than a year. e85 is a whole different ball game

snwbrderphat540

toy with an NA engine all you want, but I wouldn't expect true mileage longevity, time is irrelevant, mileage and the type of use is what matters.

I have experience boosting an NA datsun L motor, so a nissan but not a VG. It was very good with boost, however it has a forged crank and rods from the factory with fairly beefy cast pistons. I have minor experience with a friend having PLENTY experience boosting a S2000, it does 450whp at 14psi on E85 and he is searching for 600whp, this is an ENTIRELY stock engine, but those are over engineered and all forged internals though with MLS headgaskets from factory.

The NA VG doesn't have those advantages, and there are threads of first hand experience on TT.net of people turboing their NA engines with a life span of only a few months, on stock boost. I still say do it, but don't expect much, in and while that NA motor is runing, fix that body and screw that NA motor in denver, find a stripped TT long block and do a slow build of it on the side so when the NA motor pops, you can through that one in and really make it beast. No point in grabbing another NA motor if you get your "test" answer with the first one.

tonsoffun300zx

here if you live in cali you should go check this out it's cheap for a tt block and heads

http://inlandempire.craigslist.org/pts/2272663238.html

the motor is just better than and NA block we aren't trying to say don't do it but do it right the tt block and internals are setup for boost the N/A isn't so just check it out dude and sell me that damn spoiler!!!

BoostforDinner

I want to see a pic of, or talk to some who has personally snapped a wrist pin. All I can find is people saying they are the weak point....but nobody seems to have a picture, or has personally done it themselves. A LOT of information gets lost in the grapevine. I've heard from different "experts" that they cant take more than 5-6psi, cant take more than 8psi, cant take more than 12psi........but their doesnt seem to be anyone who has personally grenaded one due to the wrist pins (and not tuning or headgasket).
And it is funny that everyone is saying "psi" instead of "tq". Psi has nothing to do with engine load as it is a measurement of restriction. Its way too general. 12psi with a gt30r is nowhere near close to the CFM's that a gt40r is making as the same level. Then the amount of time the combustion event has to act upon the internal pieces comes into play. Smaller, quicker spooling turbos will have much more time for the stress of the combustion event to act upon all the internal pieces as they spool much faster, placing more load in lower rpms. The lower the RPM, the more time the piston/rod assmbly is being pounded on by the explosion. The higher the rpm, the less physical time the assmbly is experiencing the combustion process. So larger, laggier turbos are one of the keys to having a longer life. Pair a much larger turbo (like the hx52 we are going to run), with a higher compression N/A engine, and the combustion properties of e85 (and the exhaust volume), and it will live longer than someone who swaps a set of manifolds and turbos from a DETT and runs it on pump gas (and probably a shytty tune detonating all over the hills and through the woods).
A guy I know ran over 18psi and more than 350whp/350tq in a stock bottom end 140k mile 2.0 neon engine (sans arp rod bolts). Everyone was pointing out the rod failure around 250wtq was due to the inferior cast rods, when in fact the factory rod bolts were stretching and causing the bearing to seize on the crank.....but nobody really figured that out until he held his own ***** and put it to the test.

BlueKitsune

Go post this on twinturbo.net and see what they will say about it.

hoov100

Like I said earlier, if there is one person to call, call greg dupree at specialty-z. The next best thing you could do is pull an N/A piston and see for yourself.

BoostforDinner

anyone have his number?

hoov100

The internet has it!

http://www.specialtyz.com/contact.php

BoostforDinner

thanks for confirming that no one really has a clue as the ACTUAL breaking point of the NA wrist pins: http://twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg.asp...cal&dtSearch=0

BlueKitsune

Holy crap you actually did some research! Congrats!