Still stuck on this
Well im just going to put my car in the garage and do a complete rebuild. As for the 240sx tb swap Is there a specific year i should be looking at? What would be ideal?
Last edited by ZXT83; Sep 8, 2010 at 02:15 AM.
I was going to say I don't know why anyone didn't mention just ohming the TPS out. That will pretty much tell you whether the contacts are actually making contact and what not.
With the car running, get it warm and check the bottom of your ECU to see if the green light is blinking. I remember when my O2 sensor went bad/was dead it for some reason was killing my low end throttle response. You also need to check your timing, your CHTS might be bad, or you could potentially have an AFM that needs adjusting.
Also with the car running pull each injector clip off of each injector one at a time. See if the car starts stumbling or changes it's idle. If it does, reconnect, go to the next one.
Shake the wiring harness while the car's idling/driving and see if that makes any difference.
Check your timing, if your timing is off or retarded throttle response/everything will feel sluggish.
Finally if you have one get a vacuum gauge and check your vacuum at idle. The TPS will cause some issues with low end throttle or off idle, I remember mine would and that was with it unplugged, but it didn't make that big of a difference when I was driving.
Really the AFM, CHTS, and O2 sensor at least on my Turbo car were the only real sensors to cause drivability issues.
Oh finally get on the freeway or wherever or generally in any gear and get the car up above 3000RPM I believe and see if throttle response, etc smoothes out. Above that RPM everything pretty much switches to running off pre-programmed ECU maps and won't worry about half the sensors. If you're still having problems here then I'd say wiring, motor, AFM. When my car had a bad CHTS that was making it run really crappy once I got to 65 on the freeway it suddenly ran beautiful.
With the car running, get it warm and check the bottom of your ECU to see if the green light is blinking. I remember when my O2 sensor went bad/was dead it for some reason was killing my low end throttle response. You also need to check your timing, your CHTS might be bad, or you could potentially have an AFM that needs adjusting.
Also with the car running pull each injector clip off of each injector one at a time. See if the car starts stumbling or changes it's idle. If it does, reconnect, go to the next one.
Shake the wiring harness while the car's idling/driving and see if that makes any difference.
Check your timing, if your timing is off or retarded throttle response/everything will feel sluggish.
Finally if you have one get a vacuum gauge and check your vacuum at idle. The TPS will cause some issues with low end throttle or off idle, I remember mine would and that was with it unplugged, but it didn't make that big of a difference when I was driving.
Really the AFM, CHTS, and O2 sensor at least on my Turbo car were the only real sensors to cause drivability issues.
Oh finally get on the freeway or wherever or generally in any gear and get the car up above 3000RPM I believe and see if throttle response, etc smoothes out. Above that RPM everything pretty much switches to running off pre-programmed ECU maps and won't worry about half the sensors. If you're still having problems here then I'd say wiring, motor, AFM. When my car had a bad CHTS that was making it run really crappy once I got to 65 on the freeway it suddenly ran beautiful.
No im going to rebeuild the motor over the winter considering its going to be stored in my garage anyway and the car could deffently use it. And yes i did my homwork on cost and I can manage. My quistion on the tb still stands
All 240sx's (KA24E and KA24DE) have the same diameter tb, but the linkage varied slightly. You can also grab a 60mm tb from an SR20DE, and depending on which car (the G20 I think? Maybe Stanza, and/or Sentra, Altima too) actually used a ball linkage instead of cable, so you just flip the linkage plate over, cut the spring dowel, and install.
Yes it's overkill, and being "universal ebay" crap, it's likely going to require a lot of mods to make fit, and it's still crap. 
And I doubt the "cheap" ebay tb is any cheaper than a $10-$20 60mm throttle body from the junk yard.

And I doubt the "cheap" ebay tb is any cheaper than a $10-$20 60mm throttle body from the junk yard.
My thoughts exactly my buddys parents own a bone yard so i know i can get it for next to nothing but i havent been able to get ahold of em for weeks now. so i must be patient not one of my best qualities. One more question, on my other tread about removing the charcaol canister i asked what kind of filter i would have to put on? I got no response so if you could please fill me in id appreacate it. Thanks for all the help nismo
Many of the generic AutoZone / ebay "cold air intake" systems have smaller cone filters to replace the evap lines. Just find one & attach it to the end of the fuel tank evap line. They also sell valve cover filters & PCV filters that would probably work too...




As in this marked up K&N kit? http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/11-2923
You can buy a K&N cone filter & plastic tube from AutoZone for $50-$80.
You can buy a K&N cone filter & plastic tube from AutoZone for $50-$80.
No throttle response
I did bring this up in another thread but could not find it. Or its just been so long since ive been on here it was removed.
Regardless, here is my issue.
I have an 83 280zx turbo. The motor will not rev at all. Now the car starts and runs, But runs with a very low rough idle. When under the hood i can push the throttle all the way down and get almost no change in the idle. Holding the throttle all the way down only keeps the engine from stalling out. I have to do this just to keep it running. I replaced the tps because i beleived that to be the culprit. I was wrong. I dont think the newtps made any difference. I am completely stumped and need help. Any input would be greatly apprecited.
Regardless, here is my issue.
I have an 83 280zx turbo. The motor will not rev at all. Now the car starts and runs, But runs with a very low rough idle. When under the hood i can push the throttle all the way down and get almost no change in the idle. Holding the throttle all the way down only keeps the engine from stalling out. I have to do this just to keep it running. I replaced the tps because i beleived that to be the culprit. I was wrong. I dont think the newtps made any difference. I am completely stumped and need help. Any input would be greatly apprecited.
So i ordered a new tps and this is what i got. I start the car it idles poorly. I hold the throttle all the way down and instead of the motor reving up as it should. The idle picks up to were it should be. So now i at least have a propper idle but it takes floored throttle to do so. Would bad fuel injectors do this? As for checking the AFM? what do i do?
No I just set it to were there was no play in it. I will check that. How many components sre there that can affect my engine being able to rev up? I Mean if its not the tps what else should i be checking. All the throttle linkage is connected. IM just stuck. Please help
Honestly if you want to fix it yourself (which is a great idea) instead of taking it to a mechanic you should be reading through the www.xenonS130.com FSM. They will tell you everything you need to know...
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Yikes... You must have tons of time and money to blow?






