I searched to try to find the answer but didn't find it. Might be blind. Here's how it started. One day the car wouldn't start. I turn the key and the there is a click from around the ignition relay and the starter doesn't move. I replace the relay, no go. Replace the solenoid, no go. What do you guys think it could be? The starter is fairly new so it shouldn't be that. Might be. I'll take the starter into autozone to get it tested. Appreciate the help guys! Thanks.

Pete

 

battery?

 

Check and clean all your electrical connections between the battery and starter. Same thing happened to me. Both power and ground cables go directly from the battery to the starter. Make sure all of those connections are clean. Also make sure that the small wire that triggers the starter solenoid is clean and has a good connection.

 

like they said^^^ insufficient power to the starter

 

if you drove something lighter you could do like i used to.
i push started my geo metro for 3 months in high school cause i was too poor to get a new starter lol

 

I just bought the battery in October last year. I'll be pissed if it's that. I cleaned all of the connections and it's a no-go. Had the starter tested at auto zone and it was fine.

 

you could try pushing it, cause if the battery was totally shot pushing wouldn't work either.

 

it might be your ignition switch....try using a remote starter and connect it to the starter.. if it turns i doubt its your starter or your batt.. or if you dont have a remote starter you can use a screwdriver.. just jump the pos (+) connection on the starter to the yellow wire on the solenoid.

 

i would check the battery, put a volt meter to if you have one, or jump it with another car and see if it works, might end up being the switch like ice said though, but the battery is easier to test, also the tests they do at autozone arent vary accurate, the best way to test a starter is to pull it out of the car, but leave it hooked up and have someone else bump the starter to see if it works period.

 

i respect you so much... you have no idea

lol there is so much fail in your statement that its honorable

 

well what can i say i was a poor kid

 

at least i had wheels and could fill up for like 12 bucks too lol with 91 oct.

 

i want to fill up my z with 91 just to see what it does

 

I got the car running but it's acting pretty funny. The voltometer is readin 17, 18 volts and it fluctuates, ouch big word, and when I hit the brakes or turn on some other electrical accessories everything fades and the needle drops real low. Do you guys think this is a grounding problem? That was the reason it wasn't running in the first place. Ground from starter to body was disconnected. There is some corrosion around there and It's an old cable anyways. This might be my problem but can't work on it till tuesday. Oh and I had the battery tested and it was fine.

I fill my Z up with 91 octane all of the time. It's all I use in it. It gets pretty peppy...

 

^^^ Classic sign of a dying alternator.

 

I have thought that as well but the alternator was changed in early 2006. The car sat from june '06 till october 2008. I don't think it's that.

 

Is it a reman alternator? Many remanufactured alternators suck, and just because it's 3 years old, doesn't mean it's not going bad. There's not many other explanations for 17-18 volts....

 

I got it brand new. I'm still leaning towards a grounding problem... I will find out on tuesday when I get to see my car again.

 

i think i have a grounding problem too.I lost all spark one day when i was driving and have since than installed a blaster 2 coil,new plugs,and crane xr-700 ignition kit to replace the ignition module which i thought at first was the problem.It turns over no problem but it just spins with no fire.i have no clue what to do but i need my car running.rides to work every day suck.Also a week before it gave out sometimes the voltmeter in the dash would jump around from 10 to 15-16 voltsAny ideas?
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