240Z, 260Z, 280Z (S30) Forums Dedicated to first generation ZCars

Starting Issue

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 09-07-2007, 09:48 AM
  #1  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
OpenRange's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: The Free State of Wyoming
Posts: 15
Starting Issue

Alright, here's the deal. Starting about three weeks ago, I had a problem starting my Z when the engine was already hot. I'd turn the key and hear the solenoid click, but the starter wouldn't spin. If I waited for the car to cool down, I'd be able to start her. I figured the issue was with the starter solenoid seizing up when it got hot, due to its position right next to the block. Anyway, I replaced the starter two days ago, which seemed to correct the problem, until yesterday afternoon. The car died, due to an unrelated issue, and when I tried to restart it - CLICK. Tried again - CLICK. I tried turning the ignition quickly, about once or twice a second, but didn't get anything for a LONG time - nearly an hour. The engine was cool long before I finally got the starter to turn. Since then, every time I've started her it's taken several turns of the key before the starter actually spins, but the solenoid clicks every time. Suggestions? Could it be the clutch position or transmission-neutral switch?
OpenRange is offline  
Old 09-07-2007, 11:23 AM
  #2  
The Good Twin
 
NismoPick's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Wild Wild West, UTAH!
Posts: 20,639
How do the battery terminals / cables look? If it's a new starter, check the wiring.
NismoPick is offline  
Old 09-09-2007, 03:49 PM
  #3  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
OpenRange's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: The Free State of Wyoming
Posts: 15
Solved it!

So, I made a jumper to bypass the ignition switch, and the starter works just fine. Hence, I'll get the ignition re-wired tomorrow, and call it good! Thank goodness for spare stereo wire, huh?
OpenRange is offline  
Old 09-10-2007, 04:30 PM
  #4  
Registered User
 
z_lis's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Fremont, CA
Posts: 146
My car does that too! only when it's hot. I was just thinking of getting a new starter, but I think I'll try this first. Where should I connect the stereo wires?
z_lis is offline  
Old 09-23-2007, 03:30 PM
  #5  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
OpenRange's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: The Free State of Wyoming
Posts: 15
Sorry I didn't see your post sooner - I've been out of town for a little while. Anyway, I just used one insulated stereo wire for my jumper - about 4 inches long, with a 1/4" female spade connector on one end and the other end stripped back about 1/2". Pull the wire from the ignition switch off of the flat prong on the starter, and replace it with the spade connector end of the jumper. Turn your ignition key to the ON position. Then, simply touch the bare end of your jumper to the positive post on the starter, and she'll spin right up! Needless to say, hold on to the insulated part of the jumper when you do this, 'cause there's a LOT of current running through it!
OpenRange is offline  
Old 08-24-2009, 04:48 PM
  #6  
Registered User
 
RedFive's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 7
Alright, I know this post is old but I searched and this is the only post I could find that has my exact problem. The problem is that there's so solution!

Somewhere in the wiring between the key and the starter something is preventing the current to flow. I get like 0.04V on the starter when I turn the key. Obviously there is a connection problem somewhere. I replaced the relay already.

Any ideas? Help!?
RedFive is offline  
Old 08-24-2009, 04:57 PM
  #7  
This facepalm's for you!
 
skib's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: The Interwebs
Posts: 1,175
Originally Posted by RedFive
Alright, I know this post is old but I searched and this is the only post I could find that has my exact problem. The problem is that there's so solution!

Somewhere in the wiring between the key and the starter something is preventing the current to flow. I get like 0.04V on the starter when I turn the key. Obviously there is a connection problem somewhere. I replaced the relay already.

Any ideas? Help!?

If its not a physical connection problem, it might be because the wiring is like a million miles long and goes threw a bunch of crap before it gets to the starter, common after a while. heres a band aid solution...
(it works fine but "proper" way would be to re-wire it)

If you have had chronic starting problems with your Z (solenoid click but starter dosent turn) this might be the cure you need. If the solenoid clicks, you know your ignition switch is OK. Probably nothing wrong with the starter either. Putting a voltmeter on the solenoid terminal on the starter with the key on the "START" position will probably show a reading of much less than 12 volts, likely 6-8 volts. Thats enough to actuate the solenoid but not enough to keep it engaged. The click you hear is the solenoid returning to rest. There is just to much resistance (from age) in the circuits involved to deliver 12 volts. This minor project will deliver full batter voltage to the solenoid and take the load off of the ignition switch.
i buy these relays at Baxter Auto Parts, they are intended for auxiliary driving lights and will be listed and stocked as such

1. Mount the relay on the inner fender panel as close to the starter as is convenient.

2. Run a 12-14 gauge wire from the battery terminal (large ring wire end) on the starter to the #87 terminal on the relay

3. Run another 12-14 gauge wire from the #30/51 terminal on the relay to the solenoid terminal (push on connector)

4. The original wire from the ignition switch to the solenoid (yellow or yellow with black) may have to be extended to reach the # 86 terminal on the relay.

5. The #85 terminal needs a wire (14-18 gauge) running to ground, frame or body.
skib is offline  
Old 08-25-2009, 06:04 PM
  #8  
Registered User
 
RedFive's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 7
Alright I tried your idea and it didn't work. I get less than a volt at the little yellow wire going to the starter and it isn't activating the new relay.

How can I bypass the ignition switch to make sure it's not that? Which prongs on the connector do what?

Bottom line: When I turn the key, I can hear a click sound from underneath the passenger side of the dash (the starter relay...which is new). I can turn the key a bunch of times and all I'll get is the click sound. A lot of the times I won't hear the beeping from the car diagnostics starting up (oh this is a 76 280z btw). Other times I will hear the beeping and the lights will flash like normal. It used to be that if I turned the key enough times, eventually the starter would turn the engine over and it would be fine. The starter itself is fine because the screwdriver trick works. There is just a bad connection somewhere.

But where?
RedFive is offline  
Old 08-25-2009, 06:10 PM
  #9  
This facepalm's for you!
 
skib's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: The Interwebs
Posts: 1,175
sounds like the ignition switch itself, I remember reading a write up about puling off the back and cleaning/repairing the connections, cant remember where tho
skib is offline  
Old 08-25-2009, 07:19 PM
  #10  
Registered User
 
RedFive's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 7
Okay, just tried a new ignition switch. Same.

Ideas?
RedFive is offline  
Old 08-25-2009, 07:36 PM
  #11  
This facepalm's for you!
 
skib's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: The Interwebs
Posts: 1,175
must be a bad connection somewhere?
skib is offline  
Old 08-25-2009, 08:03 PM
  #12  
Registered User
 
RedFive's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 7
Uhhh....yes. Next idea?

I started to trace the little wire that connects to the starter solenoid. It goes to the C-13 plug behind the alternator. From there it goes into the firewall and I can't find it on the other side.
RedFive is offline  
Old 08-25-2009, 08:08 PM
  #13  
This facepalm's for you!
 
skib's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: The Interwebs
Posts: 1,175
Originally Posted by RedFive
Uhhh....yes. Next idea?



yes its been suggested, I know. But untill you have checked it %100 its still on the possible list of culprits. The only way to solve it is to go down the lists of possible and probable problems and eliminate them.
skib is offline  
Old 08-25-2009, 08:27 PM
  #14  
Registered User
 
RedFive's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 7
Well, what does the wire goto as soon as it crosses though the firewall and into the passenger cabin?
RedFive is offline  
Old 08-25-2009, 08:44 PM
  #15  
This facepalm's for you!
 
skib's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: The Interwebs
Posts: 1,175
Originally Posted by RedFive
Well, what does the wire goto as soon as it crosses though the firewall and into the passenger cabin?
start digging, its up to you to find out.

were not in your garage with you, start by looking at a wiring diagram. it will give you a good idea as to where to look.
they make manuals and diagrams for a reason

Last edited by skib; 08-25-2009 at 08:52 PM.
skib is offline  
Old 08-26-2009, 08:46 AM
  #16  
Registered User
 
RedFive's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 7
Mmmk, problem solved.

It's the C-13 connector right behind the alternator and in front of the oil filter. I cleaned the contacts and it was good to go. I think I'll be cutting that connector out soon and putting in a new one. Bah!
RedFive is offline  
Old 08-26-2009, 12:54 PM
  #17  
This facepalm's for you!
 
skib's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: The Interwebs
Posts: 1,175
see, there ya go
skib is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
1979 280z
280ZX Performance / Technical
1
01-05-2015 02:58 PM
Unorthodox
300ZX (Z31) Forums
4
10-11-2013 11:15 AM
GreenMachine
280ZX Performance / Technical
8
07-29-2012 08:09 AM
Lesnocker
280ZX (S130) Forums
3
02-11-2011 01:13 PM
280z racer
240Z, 260Z, 280Z (S30) Forums
19
09-25-2007 11:29 AM



Quick Reply: Starting Issue



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 02:40 AM.