Ya. the Q panel windows where easy. even more so sense you can take them off on a 2+2! the hatch on the other hand....

 

Does anyone know if that metal hinge thingy on the 2+2 Q panel windows come off the glass? Or are they there if I buy a new window? Id dint break one but one of the hinges his broken and I tried JB weld but that didn't work for a damn. if it comes off I'll just weld it back on.

 

should just be a screw going though a hole in the glass to a bracket on the other side... I think that's how they were when I pulled the hinge off of one of mine...

 

Wrong side. The hinges on the other side I mean, under that piece of trim.The part that holds the glass to the body itself.

 

the FSM sucks for this And I think I asked this somewhere before but I don't know if it was here or not.

I'm losing fuel pressure very quickly after I stop the motor and none of my injectors are leaking and I'm pretty sure my Regulator is still good. Where would it be losing pressure at?

The next this is. What times the "5 second prime"? When I didn't have my EFI in it actually worked flawlessly. now that its back in tho I don't even hear the fuel pump kick in till I start turning the motor over which makes it take a lot time to start the motor from cold. Any ideas?

 

THose lines on the passanger side (LEft hadn drive Z). Can you remove them? One of those ****ers just blew up and I lost my coolant going down the highway. I'm way more then pissed off right now and sick of all this **** this car keeps givine me even with a brand enw ****ing everything.

 

^ You mean the coolant lines? (rubber hoses) That run alongside the block on the passenger side? If so, you should be able to take them off. And replace them. Those were the death of my '82 T-top engine last fall. I lost my heater hose line, and all my coolant leaked out. Causing my Z to overheat, and warp and fry my cylinder head, on the freeway. All because my temperature gauge, was not working. I learned my lesson the hard way.

Just have patience man. You probably have to start replacing things, that are old in your Z. Nothing new to me, or really anybody. That fixes them up. Good luck.

 

Well I just overheated a brand new motor because of those ****ing lines. I changed all of them but the ones that went though the firewall itself as they still looked good and I didnt feel like pulling my dash out.

I really hope that engine isnt ****ed

 

Well it starts so its fine I guess I hope nothing cracked or warped tho. And it was one of the heater core lines. the thing burst open right at the firewall.

Holy **** getting to that heater core is EVIL. Anything I should change while I have my Z this far down?

 

Has anyone ever tapped into the coolant drainplug on on the block and put a temp sensor there? I dont know how much I trust the factory location for a good reading.

 

Almost all cars have the temp sensor in the thermostat housing or in the head by the thermostat housing, because that's the hottest spot for coolant. You want to know the coolant temp at it's hottest spot... not somewhere in the middle.

 

Well them maybe I didnt overheat my motor to much then as it never got over 3/4's gauge. but it doesn't work w/o coolant either right? lol

 

^ The gauge? Oh I am pretty sure it works without coolant. Because it would get hotter, as your engine, and cylinder head burn up, with lack of coolant. Anyway you should be allright, if you only got it to 3/4. Fix your hoses, and check everything real thoroughly. And everything should be fine, with that problem. Good luck.

 

I see. Alright. Thank you! that makes me feel a bit better lol

 

Well I was right.




Blew up at the end of the line in the engine bay.



I took the heater core assembly out too. The valve and the core itself seems to be ever so slightly seeping.

 

Wow, that thing really is way buried in the dash. Something to look forward to. lol NOt! Anyway those are pretty much the same hoses, that did my '82 T-top in, last fall. What a nightmare that was. I don't want to go through that again.

 

lol ya it was a pain. Whats worse is the mess of vacuum lines under there! I have them all marked but geez is there enough? I almost thought of bypassing the heater core and not putting it back in for now so I can still have my Z back!




And 30 years of dust is nasty. but their cleaner now

 

^ You might regret doing that. I did, when I decided not to put all my duct work back underneath the dash. When it got to winter, I was freezing in my Z, with no heat. lol I was used to the summers without a/c. But the winter is kind of tough. And yes, it does get cold here in the desert of Arizona. lol

 

Oh I know I used to live in Phoenix lol But its the start of summer pretty much and atm I dont really have money for a new heater core and lines heh

Ugh I'm still stressing out cuz I haven't ran my motor sense it overheated and I put cold water in it with the engine off @.@ I'm just freaking out bad

 

it's fine dude, my car got low on water, and I drove it in stop and go traffic for 15mins with the temp gauge at 3/4+ the whole way home... These motors are tough.

 

Heh I know their tough but it still scares me lol.

 

Ok call me stupid if you want to. But I've always wondered why my Ac smelled semi-sweet dustyish when it was on, either hot or cold. Well duh the heater core has been leaking *facepalm* the entire bottom of the heater core unit had a sludge of dust filled coolant. bleh I've been breathing that for like a year now!

So the heatercore is going to go be repaired (hopefully thats cheaper then a new one) and its being bypassed for the time being I guess. Turns out my radiator has sprung a leak too! What the ****! I think I just want a new one for that. Suggestions?

 

Yes the motors are tough. But the cylinder heads are not. Take it from me, I have overheated and ruined two cylinder heads. All in all, aluminum does not like getting hot. If you get it too hot, it will bite you in the butt. And cost you work, time and money.

It's mixing an aluminum head, with a cast iron block. They just don't work to well together. One reason, I would love to somehow have a cylinder head, custom made out of cast iron. Maybe a little heavier, but I never much worried about weight. But anyway, it would probably cost quite a bit of cash, for that to happen. Which I don't have. lol

 

If I remember right the LD28 uses an iron head. Or was it some truck that used the L engine? I dont remember but I know theres a factory one lol

And so far everyone says that the motor "should" be fine. the melt tabs on the head and block freeze plug didnt melt so it ever got over 260F the gauge also never said more then 3/4's. The killer in this part is. Did I crack something when I had my massive brainfart and put cold water in the engine when it wasnt running. got a nice face full of steam when I did that heh.

 

WildmaN... that's got to be one of the most stupid things I've ever heard.

Blue, me and my dad have filled up over heated cars before with ambient temp water and never had a problem.