is there a certain life span of the o2 sensor because i saw a note in a Chilton book saying you should switch out the o2 at the first 30000, and i was wondering if it means every 30000?

 

Talking to a Z guy, I found out that it was to change at every 50,000 miles. This reminds me to get my O2 sensor changed.

 

oh well is there an easy way to check it if it is still working right

 

take it to someone you know who does emission/smog check. They will be able to tell you.

 

ok cool thanks

 

remove the lower driver's side kickpanel. Get a mirror or get your head down under the ECU best you can. There's a green LED, get the car warmed up, then rev it a few times and while you're down there give the car some throttle and hold it there. Watch to see if the green LED is flashing. If it's not flashing and just staying solid green or not on, your O2 is not functioning. Another check to do would be before starting the car. Turn the ignition to ON and check that LED to see if it's on to let you know if the LED works or not.

 

Thanks duowing, appreciate the help...I am gonna check it out also, just to see if my O2 sensor is working and need changing.
Thanks!

 

If your mpg suddenly drops, or if it no longer passes emissions, then it's time to replace the O2 sensor.

 

My emission failed...what a bummer and the guy says its the O2 sensor. I am in Los Angeles area, so I look up kragen auto website and there are like 5 million O2 sensor even after I specify my car (upstream, downstream...god knows what else stream, one wire, 2 wire?????? ). Help which one is the correct and proper one? I see on at the exhaust and I believe thats the only one the car has (nothing around the catalytic converter?).
My car is 1982 280zx Turbo.
Thanks,

 

It's a one wire right on the turbo downpipe before the bend. Usually parts stores offer a "universal O2 sensor" for cheap, which just means you get to splice the wire to the harness.

 

Yeah, the part number at Kragen is 12046 for the one with the wire attachment, and the universal is 11027. If your Z failed emissions, it's probably a good idea to clean out the EGR tube as well, as 25+ years of buildup will make it not so efficient.

 

Or remove it. If they don't do underhood inspectiosn you'll be gold. Really having no EGR had no effect on me passing e-check.

 

How do I clean the ECR valve? I would rather clean it if possibel becasue the valves are about $100. Thanks for the part number on the O2 sensor.

 

It's the tube you might want to clean. The valve can be cleaned a little too, but the tube usually has most of the buildup. I just used a ton of carb/choke cleaner and a pipe cleaner to scrub the inside clean. It was crazy how much carbon came was clogged in that tube.

 

i just checked my o2 using the green led light and when my car was warmed up the light flashed about once every 2 sec, and at 2000 rpm it flashed rapidly, does these mean its its working properly or should i use an oscilloscope to see how fast it is switching

 

that would indicate proper operation.

 

so what does the led actully show just that it is sending a signal to the computer?

 

This weekend (by weekend meaning Sunday late after noon) my task was to change the fuel filter and the rubber hoses that go in and out of it and replace the o2 sensor (Since my car failed emission/smog). Fuel filter and the hoses were a cake walk but I got stuck trying to remove the old o2 sensor (swear it felt like it was never ever replaced ). I tried WD40 to loosen the tread and no luck then wipe off the excess WD40 and warm up the engine hoping it might loosen it up but still no luck. Applied WD40 (a lot) while the exhaust was still warm (some steam) but still the darn thing will not budge. I can see the built up rust is coming off but not the sensor.
Any of you ran into this...I know WD40 works on anything I have tried but this is just too much. Any better idea to loosen this thing up so I can replace it easy? I would have never thought that it would give me that much trouble to replace a sensor which is so easy to access.
Any thoughts on how to do this?
Thanks in advance...

 

i am so glad i dont have an o2 sensor

soak the thing in wd 40 and let it sit over night, its a penetrating oil and from the sound of it, it needs time to penetrate

 

Try PB Blaster instead of WD-40.

 

Indeed. WD40 is slightly better than water.

 

PB Blaster and lots of it. Let it sit. Get a wrench or something and bang on the nut for the O2 sensor. When I did this the first time I didn't know there was a special O2 sensor socket. So we just broke the O2 sensor off so we could get a regular socket around the base. I'm not sure exactly where it's located on the non-turbo, but on my turbo car I was able to get a foot long extension down on the sensor, or it may have been longer. Got a 1/2" drive for the extension, and then used the jack handle as a pry bar. Made sure we kept pressure on the whole setup and kept working it. Eventually it broke free and it broke the ratchet. The ratchet would work fine for tightening, but was no longer useful for loosening. Also I'd say don't torque the sensor to 30 like the manual says, I torque it less in case I had to remove it, and I've found myself removing it a few times. Honestly though I try to remove the sensor or loosen it like once a year then tighten it, just to make sure I don't have to go through the trouble of getting a frozen one out again.

 

Thanks guys, I will try the PB blaster if this one does not work. I have the sensor soaking in ED-40 today will try again tonight or tomorrow. Depending on how much time I have after work today.
Will keep you all posted for future ref.