Let's get this darn thing running!
#51
What I was told is that piece your talking of was not needed. Though I am open to the idea of putting it back on if it will make this damn thing run.
Here is a closer picture of what it looks like.
The piece it looks as though you've placed a box around was closed off (I have it highlighted with a red arrow). The piece with the star under is has a block off plate on top of it.
Unfortunatly I leave in seven hours to go back home with no luck
So unless you have any quick ideas for right now I will have to resume this in a few months time. Firt I must find a place in CO to work/store this car.
wgc_3
Duo if you would please email me so that way I might pick your brain more.
wgcthree@gmail.com
Here is a closer picture of what it looks like.
The piece it looks as though you've placed a box around was closed off (I have it highlighted with a red arrow). The piece with the star under is has a block off plate on top of it.
Unfortunatly I leave in seven hours to go back home with no luck
So unless you have any quick ideas for right now I will have to resume this in a few months time. Firt I must find a place in CO to work/store this car.
wgc_3
Duo if you would please email me so that way I might pick your brain more.
wgcthree@gmail.com
#52
I would say if you can put it all back together. Even though the air regulator on my 76' isn't working I bet it still gets some airflow as opposed to if it was just completely plugged off, because unless I give it gas it pretty much won't start. You said that is plugged off right? That's all I can come up with now. I noticed it as soon as I saw that extra connector just sitting kind of freely. I've never heard anyone mention that you could get rid of the air regulator though, but that's all I can kind of come up with for now. If you want you can e-mail me, but I'm about to head off for the night. I'll be back up in a few hours. I don't know if you'd still be around or not, but at least for the time being give that a try, and see what happens. Maybe some others can throw a few more last minute ideas. Good luck.
My e-mail: duowing@gmail.com
My e-mail: duowing@gmail.com
#53
Ok well if you could please take a closer picture so I can ask if someone still has those parts off a part car. And when I am able to get my car in CO we'll go from there.
Thanks,
wgc_3
If anyone would like to place input please do so.
Thanks,
wgc_3
If anyone would like to place input please do so.
#55
you can block off the air regulator.... and you dont have a cold start valve in? hmmmm...... the turbos dont have them but the NA does, i dont know how drastic the diff is without one though in an NA. and you can mount the distributor on the block its self backwards, but i doubt you did. let alone i dont even knoe how much of a difference that would make even.
#59
Damn because I threw that away.......
Guess I'll need to look for that lower part, and the middle part where it all splits off.
On the top left hand side where the hose goes down it went into some sort of nozzle looked like a filter, what was that?
Guess I'll need to look for that lower part, and the middle part where it all splits off.
On the top left hand side where the hose goes down it went into some sort of nozzle looked like a filter, what was that?
#60
Originally Posted by wgc_3
Damn because I threw that away.......
Guess I'll need to look for that lower part, and the middle part where it all splits off.
On the top left hand side where the hose goes down it went into some sort of nozzle looked like a filter, what was that?
Guess I'll need to look for that lower part, and the middle part where it all splits off.
On the top left hand side where the hose goes down it went into some sort of nozzle looked like a filter, what was that?
And that "filter" you speak of is a check valve... kinda the stock recirc blow off valve.
#61
PS... just a tid bit of advice (from personal experience): Take off one piece at a time & make sure it still runs... if you take a bunch of stuff of the intake & then it doesn't run, you have no idea what is causing the problem.
#62
I agree with Nismopick, you really shouldn't throw Z car parts away. Pretty much every part/bolt that I remove that's still use-able gets thrown into a big box. There's been many a times when I've found bolts or parts that will interchange and come in handy. Again I can't claim that will exactly fix your problem, but it seems like it would definitely be something that would help. I'm pretty sure all the Z cars had air regulators, even the Z32. I could be wrong on that one though, but it would show that they were something that had a use.
Rockauto Charges: $82 for a new Air Regulator. I have a brand new one in the box that I never used. So should you want it maybe we could work something out.
Rockauto Charges: $82 for a new Air Regulator. I have a brand new one in the box that I never used. So should you want it maybe we could work something out.
#64
Originally Posted by snwbrderphat540
i see people with blocked off air regulators all the time.
I see dead people....
But anyway... the air regulator might not be a major prob (just a crappy start up everytime), but blocking the AAC valve & the tube from the J-pipe certainly is having a bad effect. I tried blocking my AAC valve & my car wouldn't idle... Bleach blocked his but rerouted the J pipe tube.
#72
You could probably get away without the Air Regulator, but you'd need to make sure it's all plugged off, and then you'd have to make sure the AAC valve and everything else is still in place and routed correctly. So you could do without the air regulator, but then you need to work and make sure everything else flows correctly, and you also have to go with the fact that the car is a little more of a pain when you want to just start it up and go. I see no real advantage of dropping the Air Regulator. Do what Nismopick said and hook all that back up.
#73
The intake looks fine. As long as those block off plates are sealed it should run.
You do not need the air regulator for startup. Just hold the throttle in a little while cranking.
The turbo car has no cold start valve. The computer runs the car a little rich while cranking. Its high tech. On turbo swaps (like mine) the wire that runs that rich started is not connected. Mine still starts fine even in really cold weather.
How about starting fluid? Did you spray a little in the engine?
I would put a hose clamp around that rubber cap on the J-pipe.
The other rubber cap is not needed by the air regulator. The blockoff plate seals it.
Remove the bypass valve on the intake runner #4. Screw in a 280zx oil pan plug to block it off.
You do not need the air regulator for startup. Just hold the throttle in a little while cranking.
The turbo car has no cold start valve. The computer runs the car a little rich while cranking. Its high tech. On turbo swaps (like mine) the wire that runs that rich started is not connected. Mine still starts fine even in really cold weather.
How about starting fluid? Did you spray a little in the engine?
I would put a hose clamp around that rubber cap on the J-pipe.
The other rubber cap is not needed by the air regulator. The blockoff plate seals it.
Remove the bypass valve on the intake runner #4. Screw in a 280zx oil pan plug to block it off.
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