Let's get this darn thing running!
 

Guys,

I will be going home to my Z (Texas) here in about a week or so. I need to get it running so I can get it to CO, and stop using my gas loving SUV.

Last we left off I had the head rebuild-

There is power to the dizzy, and power to the injectors. But the injectors are always getting power, even when the ignition is off!

So where would I start looking for a ground in that?

Also I purchased a pallnet rail, and the pressure gauge is broken, does anyone know what size I need to order?

Any other comments/suggestions you can make would be great!

Thanks,
wgc_3

Also if anyone here in CO has a space to rent out of a garage or something that I can store this please email me!

wgcthree@gmail.com

what year of car wgc3? the 79 had a dropping resistor, i dunno if it would cause that symptom. try looking at all the wiring from the motor to the ecu. (drivers side kick panel) if some has tapped in, it could cause the ecu to be on all the time.

Sorry I guess I should have said that. It's an 83 Turbo.

Could the engine not turn over also because of the oil pump?

Someone told me if I remember (its been months) that there is a 50/50 change to get it right or wrong when putting it back in?

Thanks,
wgc3

what do you mean by the injectors get power all the time... as in teh car runs but wont shut off? or as in you pull the fuel rail give ignition and the injectors just poor out fuel stuck open as in they are literally getting power ALL the time and not a pulse

When I put a test light up to any of the injectors they stay lit whether the key is in the ignition or not. And no they do not pulse. This is on or off.

Please tell me this is my problem! :) :) :) :)

hmmm sounds ecu to me, it controls the pulse and power to the injectors go in the kick panel and unplug just the ecu, see what happens.

Does anyone know what thread size the Marshall fuel gauge is? (The one from Pallnet)


Thank you for your help.

Wgc_3

WGC... I couldn't tell ya anything about the injectors. I haven't had to mess with mine too much.

However, when you head back up to CO, gimme a shout. I'm in Albuquerque right off of I-25. We could grab a bite to eat, have a beer or 9, and swap a few stories. If you need a stop over before the last leg, I've got a spare room...with a bed even! Hell, I have a professional pool table to pass the time to go with the beers!

Duck!

Sounds good! I'm waiting to see what it is going to cost me to have it towed, there is a small chance that a friend from TX might be coming up to CO so he just might tow it up here for me!


But, on my home last night I was thinking, the injectors have two plugs on them, one is positive is the other negitive?

This may seem stupid but here is where I am coming from.

The injector is not made of metal so it can't ground on the block, secondly if I remember I put the test light to both sides of the pig tail and they both lit up.

So, am I crazy or is something wrong?

Thanks,
wgc3


Also, I forgot to add this part in. Once I get it here I have no place to store it other then the street......

So if ANYONE near Denver/Longmont/Ft. Collins area is reading this and has an extra space to work on a car please let me know, I'd like to rent it out.

But if I can't find anyone around me here is what I was thinking was.

Renting out a storage space, and working on it there. One problem, no power...... And a generator is too darn expensive for only a few weeks worth of work.

Any ideas on that one?

they are grounded anyways, they are getting constant power somehow, which would mostlikely be ECU as shady said already, how else would they get constant signal unless the ECU is telling them to?

Well only a few days until I am home! So I can work on that darn thing! Non the less (all I do is think how to get my car running). I was thinking today at work, and when I did my battery relocation to the spare tire I remember there being an extra wire thats probably 12-14 gauge that attaches to the ground which attached to the starter. Now I'm about 99% positive I have a very strong connection with the wire attached to the starter but could that cause the injectors to stay on or does that even have ANYTHING to do with the injectors (I'd look my self but all my Z stuff in back in TX). And yes after I installed the new relo kit the starter worked fine.

Thanks,
wgc_3

I'm curious, what part of texas are you going to? if it's close enough, you might get to make a new friend ^.^ :P.

If I remember correctly, Kingsville is near Mexico, im in a small suburb outside of Dallas.

My injectors get power all the time as well, and it didn't matter if it was with the stock 280zxt ecu or the z31 ecus I have used. Do you get spark when you crank the motor?

So your injectors get power even when the key is out of it?!

Yes a spark does come from the plugs.

(I go home on Thursday, and have till the seventh to get it working, Ekk only six days to get it running! :wasted: )

So anyway I am now home! Went to work on the Z and I can't find the keys! :(

So what to do now?

Anyway to rig it together, until I get a new lock?

Thanks,
wgc_3

I've ordered a new ignition lock should be here in a few hours.

But for the injectors, when I dissconnect the ECU only one side of the injector gets power. When the ECU is plugged in both sides have power.

So what do yall think?

Also, I don't know if this means anything but everything in the cabin is dissconnected ex. the ecu, ignition lock, and the boxes under the passangers seat.

Thanks,
wgc_3

wgc... I really think you don't need to worry about the "power" issue w/ the injectors... the ecu prolly sends constant power to the injectors & activates them when it opens the ground circuit.

Here is the question that will tell you if you need to worry about the power to the injectors: Are the injectors constantly spraying? as in a steady stream, not pulsing?

Boxes under the passenger seat are for cruise control.

How would I know if their pulsing?

(Would the test light be pulsing?)

thanks,
wgc_3

You should easily be able to see the injectors pulsing fuel (if there is fuel pressure) or the node light flashing.

Ok heres a check list-

A) Replace Lock Cylinder, Check
B) Spark Plugs for Spark, Check
C) 28-32 Fuel PSI, Check
D) Make sure spark plug wires are correct, Check
E) Car Starts, Fail (WTF)

Also, I connected the test light to both of the connectors on a injector wire and they both stay lite, a little dim when trying to start up, but that's a given when all the power is going to the starter.

Also, I hear this weird back firing noise, it's harsh unlike any backfire i've everheard.

What to do now?!

Thanks,
wgc_3

the light should pulse, get an LED and check the connectors for the injectors. they should flicker when trying to start. also, check your plugs see what the tips of them look like, im thinkin they will look black and wet

I'll go down to the store, and get an LED test light.

But yes the plugs are black n wet.

I get what your getting at. Clean them.

Be back soon.

Also, thanks for the quick responce I only have so long to work on this car.

wgc_3

ummm... that, but more like i was getting at your injectors are stayin open and flooding your engine. and yeah, just any ordinary LED will work and you stick on lead of the LED into each connecter on the injector clip, crank motor and it should pulse, if it just stays lit, you gots a problem.