davidjoe007

Dandos replaced the AFM with a rebuilt one.

I took it to some shop in Newark that had high yelp reviews '/last Sat... they called me and told me that they couldn't diagnose it and asked me to pick it up, no charge... pissed me off.

I know Dandos works on a ton of Z's from all years, so I took it to them. In the past they've also done my fuel pump and relay. Always top notch work. If you live in the Bay Area and don't have alot of time to work on your Z, like me, but need it fixed right... Dando's is the place.

FricFrac

$10 cheaper...

FricFrac

... right and don't forget Zdriver if you've got the time - we called it at the AFM before they even looked at the car

ThaPimpShrimp

Plus.. you could have rebuilt your own for free in no time. AFMrebuild

cbaumy34

Awesome i need a winter project for the z!

FricFrac

It's what I do with a new-to-me Z. Replace the connectors for the EFI system, replaced the battery cables, run a ground wire from the battery negative terminal to the ECU then from the ECU to the intake plenum, replace the vacuum lines and change all the fluids. Of course you address the other issues but the above is adding easy reliability back into the car. That way you're not chasing weird intermittant issues.

cbaumy34

Yea that is exactly what I am going to do!. First im changing the rear diff and cross member insulator bushings to try and get rid of this clunk im having... also replacing the slave cylinder and rear diff gasket! Already changed the exhaust. After that I can clean up the interior and have a bad *** z.

davidjoe007

I wanna thank everyone for their advice and words. My Z is my everyday driver, and my only car. Truth be told, I didn't have the time to spend rebuilding the AFM and I gotta get to work. I appreciate all the things I've learned about my Z on ZDRIVER, and all the great people helping out other Z owners. I'm glad it's running like her old self again.

Thanks again guys.

davidjoe007

Hi All,

When it is totally cool the Z start up just fine and will run great as soon as she's totally warm she'll die out and not restart.

I'm having some ignition control module issues. When the car fully warmed up, I can drive it about 5 miles and it will shut off on me. I've read threads that discribe this problem and I got a new Ignition Control Module. So the last time it broke down I swapped out the ICM and she started right up, only to break down a few miles down the road.

Last month I changed the AFM, CHTS and connector, TPS and connector, Oxy sensor. As well as the ICM this week.

The timing is a 8 and a tuneup has been done.

I just don't know what the heck is doing on. It's my daily driver, so I'm in a pickle. Any help will be appreciated

davidjoe007

So I did a little more digging and found this thread, https://www.zdriver.com/forums/280zx...one-out-32409/

I changed the fuel pump relay and I let it idle for an hour. It did not shut off. Cool beans.

davidjoe007

So I need some help ya'll.

So my z runs fine for about 30 to 40 miles and then she dies and doesn't want to start. She cools down and then runs fine again. It's been doing this for quite some time. Tired of getting stranded.

Things that have been replaced.

Coil, Ignition control module, CHPS and connector, throttle postioning sensor and connector, Oxy sensor, AFM at Dando's, fuel pump relay, rotor, cap, plugs, plug wires. I've check all the vacuum lines and all are good. The fuel pump was replaced a few years ago at Dando's and you can hear the pump working when she doesn't want to start. The timming is set to 8 BTDC.

I'm stumped.

Throw some ideas at me guys. I've got an appointment at a shop on Wed, but I took today off so I have time to work on it today. Ideas anybody?

NismoPick

Merged threads.

Let's start at the basics. An engine needs 3 things to start (if mechanically sound):
-Proper air
-Proper fuel
-Proper spark

So... when it won't start, is it getting spark at all cylinders? Is it getting fuel at all cylinders?

davidjoe007

The air is not a problem. Since I break down on the side of the freeway or on a bridge with cars wizzing by at 60-70MPH I haven't had a chance to check gas or spark. Bye the time I get it home it runs just fine. It's never broken down infront of the home... always in an awkward place or night. So I would be great for it breakdown infront of the house so I can check, but it hasn't happended yet.

davidjoe007

So what happended to my earlier post? It's not bogging out, it's just stalling.

davidjoe007

Opps so the theads merged. Did I do that? Oh well.

NismoPick

No, I did...

Take some tools with you...
Checking for spark is as simple as pulling a spark plug wire, stick in a screw driver, and place it near something grounded (strut tower bolt works great). Get in cockpit, crank, watch for spark.

Checking for fuel requires listening for the fuel pump, and/or pulling a spark plug to check if it's wet / dry, or pulling the fuel line at the rail to check for flow.

Intermittent problem like this is usually a dying fuel pump, fuel pump relay, or ignitor.

davidjoe007

Is the ignitor the same as the Ignition control module? I've put in a new fuel pump relay.

NismoPick

Ignitor is on the side of the distributor for the n/a, on coil bracket for the turbo. #3 in pic. Part# 22020-W3100.

HEI Swap: https://www.zdriver.com/forums/240z-...evy-hei-27569/

http://nissan4u.com/parts/280zx/us_s...l/distributor/

davidjoe007

The ignitor is also called the ignition control module. I've also replaced that.

NismoPick

With a new or used replacement?

There are only a few things that would cause a warm shut down... narrowing down the lack of spark and/or fuel (or maybe it's flooding) is the next step.

davidjoe007

With a new one. So... I took a look at my ECU. One of the bolts holding it down was missing. I replace the missing bolt. Do those bolts grond the ECU?

One of the times I got stuck I swapped the ignitor/ ICM and she started right back up no problem, only to break down a few miles down the road.

Another time when she broke down and and after a while she restarted, she would only run at about 4k rpm, but not at an idle. Whe she completely cooled down she ran fine.

I don't know if this info helps. Thanks for all your wisdom Nismopick.

a280drvr

davidjoe you should read my thread. It's kind of the same problem. I am totally confused

davidjoe007

So I broke down again and I'm waiting for a tow. The good news is i have spark. The fuel pump sounds week. I carry an extra. relay with me. Swamped it still wouldn't start. So I'm going to do.the fuel.pump on.sat