http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...arch&plindex=0

 

itll fit, we got big engine bays to play with. that is if that setup is even streetable. prolly runs on race gas. just need mounts, driveshaft, tranny and ecu. tada!! its simple, well kinda.

 

You can make anything work, if you have enough $$$. Like Shady said tho, practical... no. Just modify your L28ET.

 

thats an australian motor. so youll have a bitch of a time finding it

 

okay folks. i plated off the AAC and EGR.






BUT!~ i got a problem. Now it idles really low all the time. around 500 rpms at idle. and it bobbles around that speed up and down but mostly down. If you rev it up to around 3 to 3.5 thousand and then just let off the throttle completely, it'll slow down like its going back to idle, then just keep going at die. This royally suck. I've put gasket sealer and gaskets under the plates, so i'm wondering if i still might have a vaccume leak. my other thought is that i might possible have too small diameter hose running from the J-Pipe to the air regulator. Its the only hose i had on hand. just regular coolant hose. I tried running it without the air regulator either and the j-pipe hose just ran to the Bypass valve, but it wouldn't idle at all and at higher revs it sounded like something was grinding. Needless to say i didn't test that further. i just disconnected the hose from the bypass valve and put the air regulator back on. and thus, i have this problem.

Any suggestions fellas?

 

^^^ yep... Put the AAC valve back on & it will idle better.... I've been there.

 

that looks exactly like my setup. Mine idled perfect.
I just adjusted the throttle plate stop on the throttle body. That is how you adjust idle speed on the turbo cars. There is no idle screw like the NA manifolds have.

IMO, it should be fine with the AAC valve removed like you did.
Can you unscrew the bypass valve and stick an oil drain plug in there? (l-series)

a vaccuum leak should bump idle up. If you take off one of those small caps on the manifold you should notice idle goes up. try it.

 

bleach did u ever remove teh air regulator as well? im still interested in making my N42 work if possible. do you have any turbo parts left over either?

 

the idle air regulator I left on just as JP shows in his pics. He followed my thread.

But, I think I see one of the lines that goes to the carbon canister still in use on his manifold. I found a leak in that system on my car. Plugged it at the manifold and it ran better.

I have no turbo parts left. It was all sold starting about a year ago.

I did keep a few L-series parts that I wanted for possible future projects. They are away in storage and each item I kept I have no interest in selling.

 

the air bypass is mostly for the morning and for bumping the idle when the ac is running. took mine off and its fine, but i dont know how it would affect turbo cars.

 

Disconnecting the AAC valve itself actually bumped the idle up a bit.

disconnecting This one vac hose increased the idle a lil bit too.(Dunno what it goes to)

This is one i had blocked off but i unblocked it to test its effect on idle. If i lift my thumb off of it, then the engine stalls and dies.
i don't really know what was wrong with the Bleach-copied setup. Where is the throttle stop plate at? i'll try adjusting that to see if it fixes the low low idle problem.

 

okay. a little off from my other post. i was reading up on the cleaning your manifold thread and ran across the question about removing the canister. Well, i started checking into it. one hose ran from the canister to the air intake behind the AFM. the other ran to the intake manifold itself on the underside. i pulled both and capped off the nipples (hoses where so brittle they snapped in my fingers under the slightest force). Idle jumped up a little bit and got alot steadier. so i didn't see a hose going to the dizzy for the dizzy advance, my guess is that the turbos weren't vacume advance anyway.
so the only thing that was left going to the canister was the purge from the fuel tank. so i just pullled the cannister and bracket out completely. and left the purge open. I don't really know what to do with it. Should i Run a line from the purge to the intake manifold? or just let it vent on its own??

oh yeah. i got wrench happy and took the belt off from the power steering pump too. engines a lil bit more responsive without it, but it is REALLY hard to steer now. alot harder than i remember it ever being when i was trying to turn it when it would die on the interstate before. Is there an easier manual steering than just leaving the pump and all on? Right now the only things that the enigne are powering are the alternator and the fan.

 

I don't have my canister installed... I prolly should, I just never got around to it. I left my tank purge line open.

 

nismo, just curious what you made ur EGR block off from, or all of you for that matter. just sheet metal? what guage/thickness?

 

It's just 1/4" steel. Cut it to the basic shape & ground it smooth.

 

mhmm.... easy enough i guess. and yeah, if you find anyone using stock electronics and an N42 let me knoe asap. my N42 jsut isnt working, and i dont know why. i think i just have a genuine vacume leak because i hooked up the air regulator the way it is on the turbo cars, and nothing else how bleach supposedly had his and how jperkins had his, and it still had NO power under load it wouldnt even rev high, it was in a sort of limp mode.

 

I think Bleach's car was special... I followed what he did too & could never get my car to idle right w/o the AAC. Even tho I'm using the Z31 ecu, if the actuator is not on the manifold, my car won't idle. But your case is different w/ the N42.

 

my block off plate is made of 1/8th inch plate steel. same deal, basic shape with the edges ground smooth.

the set up like bleaches with the aac gone too but the air reg still there would idle monster low but it would still haul some *** when you put the metal on the floor. you just couldn't off the gas completely or it would stall and die. i might be able to swing that set up again if i open up one of the nipples i've got capped off. kind of a purposeful vacume leak, that way it'll idle up a little bit.

Edit: scratch that. i pulled all those hoses like i did before to test it out and the results were almost completely reversed. x-cept that pulling my thumb off that one nipple still made it die, so i'd say that idea is out.

 

My turbo car even passed emissions great with all that crap removed!

I left the carbon canister in place with the fuel tank line hooked up to it. No vaccum lines though to the engine from that canister.

 

i guess if i just really decide i need it, then i'll go get me one of the canisters off the VW Jetta and put on it. they are small and would be easy to keep outta the way.

 

wanna hear som shitty ****? well i think the N42 was fine just had an unknown vacumme leak. it idled rough but held idle and with only 14inHG now with it back to teh way it was, its smooth idle 20inHG once warmed up, but something is FUBAR! half throttle revs all the way (i didnt get to drive it) full throttle it stumbles on its face gains no rev's and back fires out the AFM. i think i hurt some of the old brittle wires either to the TPS or the injectors.... this is horse crap

 

Edited page from Haynes manual. This is my current intake setup.

Same page, but anything thats inverted, is what i would like to remove. Can these things be removed without trashing something? I've removed the AAC and the Air regulator with no luck before. but did it have anything to do with the Vacume Control Modulator? and what does that thing even do? And what is the vacume control valve and what is its purpose? I know Bleach pulled this set up off. Cept he kept his Air regulator. I'm tryin to figure out why it has failed for myself. Where the 83 and 82 turbo setups so different? or possibly a difference in the ECU? i've heard tell that the 82 turbo is not very interchangeable with anything other than another 82 becuase there were computer differences. is this true or is it just a load of crap?

 

Yikes! 4.2 billion questions in one paragraph...

#1... VCM controls the EGR and AAC.
#2... The AAC controls idle along w/ the air regulator.
#3... 82-83 ZXT is the same... only difference w/ the 81 is that it uses a crank pulley CAS instead of dizzy CAS.
#4... Bleach was still using the stock 280zxt ecu/afm.

Using the Z31T ECU/MAF you can remove the VCM which controls the AAC / EGR... but I have not found a way to remove the AAC actuator from the manifold w/o compromising the idle. Bleach did it somehow, and someday when I get my P90 head fixed I will see if I can make it work.

 

Ok, so i pulled all the AC components out from the firewall forward. haven't gotten the ones from the dash yet. Weight reduction.

 

sure is. ive removed my A/C compressor, all the lines, condensore, mounting materials... its ALOT of weight.