The world's first Z31 na ECU swap
12-14-2007, 09:56 AM
#26
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well, a raped ape isnt happy, but it does go wild, so you see, i could take it as the car isnt happy, or it runs like crazy! thats why i ask. but problem finally solved.
12-15-2007, 10:00 PM
#27
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Wade, come on over if you're in the area! It'd be good to see some other z people. Is anyone in the area meeting up any more?
Last edited by jmmorriso; 12-15-2007 at 10:03 PM.
12-15-2007, 10:06 PM
#28
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Sweet, my oversimplified super vague how to got a sticky! Im happy to answer any questions and it's good to have a central place for this info. Ive been looking into it and I think I will hook the reed switch style VSS up to my ECU I dont think the MAF burnoff will work without it, contrary to what the book says. More fun.
12-15-2007, 10:12 PM
#29
My speed sensor doesn't work as I have a 130mph speedo... so the MAF burn off cycle doesn't work either. How important is the burn off?
12-16-2007, 06:46 PM
#30
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The speedsensor is just a magnetic switch. I havent tested mine yet, but its hould still work with the z31ecu. I dont know what I should hook the other end up to, ground I guess. I have to pull my cluster and speedo again to do all this. Without cleaning the MAF wire at least every once in a while, gunk and dust could build up and make the reading go haywire. It seems like my car is hesitating a little more now than it was when I first did the swap. I think this could be from a dirty MAF, or old gas as the car hadnt run in a while since starting the swap.
12-16-2007, 09:08 PM
#31
Originally Posted by jmmorriso
The speedsensor is just a magnetic switch. I havent tested mine yet, but its hould still work with the z31ecu.
12-17-2007, 08:03 PM
#32
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Ive had my fair share of these speedos apart and all the guts are the same except the resistance of the clock spring on the needle. They allhave a magnet and the VSS can be mounted on all of them The VSS from my canadian 200kph speedo is on an 86mph speedo right now. I have to pull my 200k speedo now and re calibrate it(reads a little fast) and install the VSS. No time or patience for cars right now, holidays are driving me crazy.
12-17-2007, 10:22 PM
#33
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Cleveland, Ohio
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I wonder if my MAF's burnoff cycle works. I should pull the hose and look to see if that wire is glowing when I shut off the car one of these days.
12-19-2007, 06:31 PM
#34
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It only lasts one second, so it would take two people. It's only supposed to do it after a complete drive cycle; e.g. over a certain rpm, fully warmed up, over 25 mph. If you can find which terminal on the MAF heats the wire for burnoff, you can put a voltmeter on it.
01-24-2008, 12:36 PM
#35
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With the speed sensor work with the digital cluster?
01-24-2008, 11:10 PM
#36
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I don't really know. I am assuming the digital cluster still has a speedo cable, which then drives a transducer or something for the gauge. If so, the there is probably still a reed switch for the cruise control. If the VSS is mounted on the trans, it should still be do-able as long as the signals are similar.
02-21-2008, 05:37 PM
#37
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Quick question for you. As far as calibrating the MAF went, basically you followed the whole self diagnostics procedure in the FSM for adjusting the CO% to get the lights on the ECU to blink simultaneously and what not? Following that and adjusting the CO% was it right from the start or it definitely needed to be adjusted? I'm thinking that I need to run the diagnostics and follow all the steps outlined in the FSM to get my swap running better. I've noticed that it takes you through adjusting/checking idle, ignition timing, co% via MAF, and through the whole diagnostic sensors check.
02-21-2008, 09:05 PM
#38
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I adjusted the MAF according to the big book, I havent run the setup in a while(arent project cars great?), but patience is the key to this. Take a good long time in between adjustments and blip the throttle a bunch. It definitley ran better after the first time I did the adjustments. Also I had a problem with hesitation just off idle half warmed up. all the z31 guys report this it seems, but i think it can be solved with TPS adjustment and tweaking the CHT signal, or burning a new ROM. Also I am going to ground everything to the battery, ECU, MAF, block, intake.
02-21-2008, 09:11 PM
#39
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Originally Posted by snwbrderphat540
well, a raped ape isnt happy, but it does go wild, so you see, i could take it as the car isnt happy, or it runs like crazy! thats why i ask. but problem finally solved.
02-21-2008, 09:41 PM
#40
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hmmmm... some one calling me stupid that didnt want to touch there carbs, didnt know what a TPS looks like, and didnt know what a tune up consisted of.... thats it, if i meet this kid, hes getting his *** kicked.
Last edited by snwbrderphat540; 02-22-2008 at 05:42 AM.
02-21-2008, 11:59 PM
#41
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Hmm interesting. I've been trying to solve that issue. The hesitation just happens to be a bit before the O2 sensor would normally come on right? That's when I seem to have any issues, although I've never tried disconnecting the O2 sensor when warmed up and seeing if that causes a problem. I agree with adjusting the TPS as well.
I'm thinking I'm going to follow the entire procedure in the book to adjust everything, and I was thinking. One of the differences that our 280ZXs have vs. the 300ZX was that even though the early 300ZXs had the same O2 it was a heated 3-wire O2 sensor. I'm almost thinking that could be the solution. As it would come on much quicker than a single wire O2. I'm thinking about picking up a 3-wire universal for the 300ZX and just splicing it into my harness. It would help quite a bit with my cold weather driving.
As for adjusting the MAF you're adjusting it by that dial on the side or whatever that's covered by that plug, right? I noticed in the Service Manual it says to reseal that part once you're done. I assume it was so the customer getting their car back wouldn't be tempted to mess with it or know about it.
Keep me updated as far as TPS and CHT signal adjustment goes.
I'm thinking we almost need to gather all the info together and then once we've kinda come to a good point at this, make a nice big collection of info that pertains to doing the swap, but also adjusting the setup to make it work better for your car. Now I'm curious, did you switch the #2 and #5 injector wires as some have said? I've seen there's some controversy over this. I'm not sure, but my idle almost seemed slightly smoother after switching the wiring, but for the most part I can't tell any difference. I understand why people say to swap the wiring. The firing order of the L28 is 1-5-3-6-2-4, but the order for the VG30 is 1-2-3-4-5-6.
From the FSM:
Essentially then it's firing the #2 and #5 injectors out of order, where as switching them matches up with the firing order. So it makes sense. I know I had a discussion about this with jeffp on Zcar.com where he said it's one of those things, that you may not notice it, but is something that can come into play.
Man that was a big post.
I'm thinking I'm going to follow the entire procedure in the book to adjust everything, and I was thinking. One of the differences that our 280ZXs have vs. the 300ZX was that even though the early 300ZXs had the same O2 it was a heated 3-wire O2 sensor. I'm almost thinking that could be the solution. As it would come on much quicker than a single wire O2. I'm thinking about picking up a 3-wire universal for the 300ZX and just splicing it into my harness. It would help quite a bit with my cold weather driving.
As for adjusting the MAF you're adjusting it by that dial on the side or whatever that's covered by that plug, right? I noticed in the Service Manual it says to reseal that part once you're done. I assume it was so the customer getting their car back wouldn't be tempted to mess with it or know about it.
Keep me updated as far as TPS and CHT signal adjustment goes.
I'm thinking we almost need to gather all the info together and then once we've kinda come to a good point at this, make a nice big collection of info that pertains to doing the swap, but also adjusting the setup to make it work better for your car. Now I'm curious, did you switch the #2 and #5 injector wires as some have said? I've seen there's some controversy over this. I'm not sure, but my idle almost seemed slightly smoother after switching the wiring, but for the most part I can't tell any difference. I understand why people say to swap the wiring. The firing order of the L28 is 1-5-3-6-2-4, but the order for the VG30 is 1-2-3-4-5-6.
From the FSM:
Essentially then it's firing the #2 and #5 injectors out of order, where as switching them matches up with the firing order. So it makes sense. I know I had a discussion about this with jeffp on Zcar.com where he said it's one of those things, that you may not notice it, but is something that can come into play.
Man that was a big post.
Last edited by duowing; 02-22-2008 at 12:19 AM.
02-23-2008, 09:21 AM
#42
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Southaven Mississippi
Posts: 2,053
Do you think I can hit my 250hp goal with the Z31 N/A swap?
Engine specs.
F54/w flattops
N42 head/with ports gasket matched
Header
Mild Cam
Free Flow Intake
Free Flow Exhaust
10:4 Comp
Msd Ing
Or can I hit it without?
Engine specs.
F54/w flattops
N42 head/with ports gasket matched
Header
Mild Cam
Free Flow Intake
Free Flow Exhaust
10:4 Comp
Msd Ing
Or can I hit it without?
02-23-2008, 09:30 AM
#43
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Location: lemont, Illinois
Posts: 9,532
i think youd need a stand alone fub. but i think its possible. crank HP anyways. not sure about to the wheels. it would be a fun try though. go ITB's or triples or a 4 barrel seems like what everyone does with our cars that goes for big HP in an NA form.
02-26-2008, 12:24 AM
#44
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Location: Cleveland, Ohio
Posts: 2,800
Jmmorriso, the lean condition you're referring to sounds similar to what I found here: http://www.redz31.com/pages/fuel.html
He mentions that all ECUs 84-85 have the lean surge problem, and says this can be remedied by switching to the Fuel Temp Sensor signal during startup, but how would you accomplish switching between FTS and CHTS?
I don't know if you swapped in the Z31 Pressure Regulator or not, but I'm planning to switch to that when I install my palnet rail, as I like the idea of it's function, plus so I have one less end left undone.
He mentions that all ECUs 84-85 have the lean surge problem, and says this can be remedied by switching to the Fuel Temp Sensor signal during startup, but how would you accomplish switching between FTS and CHTS?
I don't know if you swapped in the Z31 Pressure Regulator or not, but I'm planning to switch to that when I install my palnet rail, as I like the idea of it's function, plus so I have one less end left undone.
Last edited by duowing; 02-26-2008 at 12:39 AM.
02-26-2008, 07:04 AM
#45
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Location: Southaven Mississippi
Posts: 2,053
I just got a 85 Z31 car. Compleat. I want to swap Every possible thing I can to my S130. Exactly what are All the parts I need to ****** off this thing?(as for the ecu swap)
02-26-2008, 07:20 AM
#46
Originally Posted by FubarI33t
I just got a 85 Z31 car. Compleat. I want to swap Every possible thing I can to my S130. Exactly what are All the parts I need to ****** off this thing?(as for the ecu swap)
Originally Posted by jmmorriso
The writeup:
1. I assume no liability for any problems stemming from this.
2. You're on your own passing smog.
3. Get a NA z31 harness, CAS Wheel, coil, Ignition module, fuel pressure solenoid and EGR solenoid. Get the boost sensor and vehicle speed sensor as well. Get anything else connected to the harness including the connector the goes to the chassis harness. It depends on the year whether you will need these last two or not. Dont forget to get a FSM for the year Z31 you just stripped.
4. Get a s130 turbo distributor and oil pump driveshaft. The shaft is available from Courtesy part no. p8000-15040 they call it a spindle.
5. swap dizz. and shaft. at TDC the flat edge of the shaft should point at 11:30, or just to the right of the upper hold down bolt hole. It's a big help to have a helper for this.
6. Determine if you will need to use dropping resistors or not. If you do, you're on your own.
7.Spend hours pouring over diagrams. You've got to run wires from the right side of the engine compartment to the chassis harness connector on the ECU harness You, ve got to re use or re make the ignition wiring in the left fender. I ran new fuel pump wires and used a seperate relay so I didnt have to hack the stock wiring should I ever have to put the old harness back in.
8. Mounting the MAF is up to you. I made a new intake tube from an old intercooler pipe and put the bungs for the air regulator and idle valve in it. I then used some silicone couplers to join it all together. Don't do this until you mount the dizz, cuz its a lot bigger than the stocker.
9. I used the z31 solenoid valves to control the FPR and EGR valves, thus eliminating all those old vacuum valves and hoses.
10. the VSS on analog gauges cars is just a grounding switch apparently, so I think you can use the setup in the 280 speedo provided that your car had cruise control. This is just speculation however.
11. I know Im missing a lot of stuff, but this should get you started. I work on worse crap than this for a living (garbage trucks) so a 1'' diameter bundle of wires and four or five different wiring diagrams wont slow me down much, specially when its not covered in old diapers and broken glass. Feel free to ask questions and please gain a thorough understanding of whats going on with the ECCS before you start cutting.
1. I assume no liability for any problems stemming from this.
2. You're on your own passing smog.
3. Get a NA z31 harness, CAS Wheel, coil, Ignition module, fuel pressure solenoid and EGR solenoid. Get the boost sensor and vehicle speed sensor as well. Get anything else connected to the harness including the connector the goes to the chassis harness. It depends on the year whether you will need these last two or not. Dont forget to get a FSM for the year Z31 you just stripped.
4. Get a s130 turbo distributor and oil pump driveshaft. The shaft is available from Courtesy part no. p8000-15040 they call it a spindle.
5. swap dizz. and shaft. at TDC the flat edge of the shaft should point at 11:30, or just to the right of the upper hold down bolt hole. It's a big help to have a helper for this.
6. Determine if you will need to use dropping resistors or not. If you do, you're on your own.
7.Spend hours pouring over diagrams. You've got to run wires from the right side of the engine compartment to the chassis harness connector on the ECU harness You, ve got to re use or re make the ignition wiring in the left fender. I ran new fuel pump wires and used a seperate relay so I didnt have to hack the stock wiring should I ever have to put the old harness back in.
8. Mounting the MAF is up to you. I made a new intake tube from an old intercooler pipe and put the bungs for the air regulator and idle valve in it. I then used some silicone couplers to join it all together. Don't do this until you mount the dizz, cuz its a lot bigger than the stocker.
9. I used the z31 solenoid valves to control the FPR and EGR valves, thus eliminating all those old vacuum valves and hoses.
10. the VSS on analog gauges cars is just a grounding switch apparently, so I think you can use the setup in the 280 speedo provided that your car had cruise control. This is just speculation however.
11. I know Im missing a lot of stuff, but this should get you started. I work on worse crap than this for a living (garbage trucks) so a 1'' diameter bundle of wires and four or five different wiring diagrams wont slow me down much, specially when its not covered in old diapers and broken glass. Feel free to ask questions and please gain a thorough understanding of whats going on with the ECCS before you start cutting.
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