I have an RB26DETT motor from a Skyline that I'm going to drop into my 77Z and with the modifications that are going to be done to the engine, I'm shooting for the 700Hp mark. I already have the 8 point rollcage to stiffen up the chasis, Quaife differential upgrade for the R200 and the 300ZX halfshaft conversion, but do you think the 5 lug rear stub axle conversion is necessary? Does anyone know what the breaking point is with 4 lugs? Any info would be great. Thanks! -jAy

 

You don't really need to do all the math to know that the driveshaft, R200, and axles and even the 5 lug stub axles are going to let go with 700 hp. I road in a Mustang that tested 660 hp on a Dyno. The guy spent $15k on the driveline alone! I really don't believe that Z will handle that much torgue.

 

This is a Z not a ford. Come on how do know that a nissan can't take a beating like that?

 

No stock drive train from any country will take 700 hp. The Nissan drive mentioned was designed for 175hp. I don't think a safety factor of "5" was included. I also doubt if that RB will go to 700hp and stay together for long. A car like this woild turn the 1/4 in less than 10 seconds. Next time your at the drags look underneath a 10 second car, you won't see anything like a Z driveline!!

 

Who the hell spends 15 grand on a driveline? That thing had better be gold plated carbon fiber for that amount. I think you should worry about getting 700hp from your motor before you decide to upgrade you lug pattern!
-jeremy-

 

FYI- The total shear area for four wheel studs is about 5.3 square inches. The shear area of a 280z axle is about 3 square inches. The driveline will fail most likely at the "u' joints on the driveshaft if you use CV type half-shafts. Even the differencial gears will fail before the wheel studs.
The friend with the 660hp Mustang is a sucessful business man who can afford to have all the work done by pro shops. 15K is not unreasonable for that type of driveline! He also spent 15K on the engine!
700hp from a RB25? Maybe with $15k and a bottle of nitrous!
With a 280ZXT driveline? No way!

 

I think Gregg Dupree's car is close to 700 hp on noz and he only has 4 lugs and runs 10's

 

Thanks for those who replied with what I was looking for, but for those who assume I'm not a successful business man, or think that an RB26 can't handle 700 really should think twice before they start posting.....

Here's an interesting site:

http://www.jouleusa.com/shop%20projects/gtr.htm

Final hp output which wasn't posted on the page,

1300hp and reved 11,000 rpm

 

The original question was will the 4 lugs handle the 700hp. The answer is probably yes. If you have the means to build a car like this then let's see it.
Just how much does a 1300hp GTR cost?

 

well i can tell form experianc that hp is not the enimy of what your asking the tourq is.and i can tell you im pushing around 675 hp and 787 tq and i have a 4 lug set up and my rear diff is stok.and it handeles all the power just fine but i did have a problem with the bolts that hold the driveline to the diff. i had to put in tempered 8 grade in it. and by the way i shered them all off. all 4 of them but thats on the drive line and now it holds just fine. youll be fine with 4.
allmyzs you know i have a v8 beast and it loves to corner.

 

I think he was talking about putting a RB26 in his which is the inline 6 out of a skyline. It's very possible to get 700hp but it's gonna cost. I agree with you, though, AllmyZs. I think it's much cheaper to do the V-8 and get it to 700hp. it's all a matter of preference, though. I look forward to seeing pics of that FLiPSyDe71. Keep us updated.

 

i was just giving you **** man. i wa splaying with you.thats all

 

With the kind of horsepower you're running, those studs are safe and sound. The shear strength (that's the kind we are mostly dealing with, heavy cornering with power brings into effect tensile strength) is well more than the axle, CV joint, spider gears, and even the Ujoint itself. Those studs can take a good 1200 ft-lbs of torque no problem on both sides. keep that in mind, all that power is actually distributed to both wheels, so in essence your power is going to eight lugs.

In all my years on this easrth, I haven't really seen an IRS in a high horsepwer car really work too well. I remember all the 87-93 mustang gurus at the strip getting mad wheelhop from their IRS units. That's why the new mustang will have a solid axle, probably a 9". What you need in your Z is a comparatively sized solid rear axle, most definately with a posi or limited slip. DOn't wimp out on the axle, because (as they all say) its what actualluy goes to the ground that counts. I would try a ford 9" rear end with probably 3.56 or 3.72 gears. You'll have to get the rear end narrowed and need custom length axleshafts, but this setup will truly be bulletproof, and you can now unleash that beast on the street (or the track)!
Have fun,
Brian