The official post whore thread..
09-03-2009, 12:38 AM
#9002
eff good grammar
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Deadford OR
Posts: 1,578
strange listing:
http://medford.craigslist.org/ctd/1352112431.html
http://medford.craigslist.org/ctd/1352112431.html
09-03-2009, 09:19 AM
#9003
NisTuner
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Cleveland, Ohio
Posts: 2,800
Get a torch. It's messy, but that stuff will just come right up. Or if you do it like me get a chisel, or a good scraper from home depot and a good mallet and have at it. It comes up pretty good like that, but use a torch to heat it up, and it just sorta melts off and scrapes right up.
09-03-2009, 12:05 PM
#9005
Maybe this thread? https://www.zdriver.com/forums/showt...hlight=dry+ice
It's the only one I can think of where we actually "discussed" it.
It's the only one I can think of where we actually "discussed" it.
09-03-2009, 04:26 PM
#9008
Intrawebz Wizard
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Vernal, UT
Posts: 3,176
Or it doesn't really matter as long as it comes up. Id spend the day to talk it all off but Id rather not lose my mind with how loud the Z may be inside. Atm I don't have carpet nor insulation. just that tar stuff.
BTW anyone have any experience with Dynamat? Or is there a cheaper heat/sound insulation thats a little cheaper. I dont feel like spending $600-$800 to do the inside of my Z
BTW anyone have any experience with Dynamat? Or is there a cheaper heat/sound insulation thats a little cheaper. I dont feel like spending $600-$800 to do the inside of my Z
09-03-2009, 07:28 PM
#9010
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 121
09-03-2009, 08:53 PM
#9013
Ruff Ryder
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: palm desert
Posts: 6,140
09-03-2009, 08:59 PM
#9014
Intrawebz Wizard
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Vernal, UT
Posts: 3,176
If I'm going to build a car Im going to build a nice car. Besides It will only add like 3lbs, that's a lost less then that tar **** weighs I bet. Add my car will be cooler in summer warmer in winter. and the noise of the exhaust wont be so loud inside the car that I cant hear when I talk to my passenger
09-03-2009, 09:30 PM
#9016
Ruff Ryder
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: palm desert
Posts: 6,140
I think tar and carpet in my car came to somewhere on the 30 pound range, about 45 with the heater core assembly and all that under dash crap, I pulled a good 10 pounds of wiring out of my car and went with my own custom wiring harness, I probably lost a few more pounds using the aluminum and plastic gauges, gonna get a little better weight distribution when i mount the fuel cell and battery, hopefully soon I'll be able to get my motor plate, so i can shove the motor back 7 more inches, also should be able to make it handle better with the FC front suspension and roll bar.
09-03-2009, 09:54 PM
#9017
Intrawebz Wizard
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Vernal, UT
Posts: 3,176
1980 280ZX 2+2 slicktop And the reason Im keeping it is I cant get a ****ing 240Z
And hoov I know that carpet weighed a lot... Tho Im not wondering if it was that crappy insulation under it that was the bulk of the weight. Anyways I want to keep my interior nearly stock (minus a roll bar/cage) But also have it nice with a good sound system. I'm not all that worried about weight, but I dont mind shaving a few pounds here and there, Im sure if I removed all the tar and undercoat that would be worth it, then recoat it with like POR-15 or something
And hoov I know that carpet weighed a lot... Tho Im not wondering if it was that crappy insulation under it that was the bulk of the weight. Anyways I want to keep my interior nearly stock (minus a roll bar/cage) But also have it nice with a good sound system. I'm not all that worried about weight, but I dont mind shaving a few pounds here and there, Im sure if I removed all the tar and undercoat that would be worth it, then recoat it with like POR-15 or something
09-03-2009, 10:53 PM
#9018
NisTuner
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Cleveland, Ohio
Posts: 2,800
I bought myself a new ECU on ebay. I bought an ECU from a 1990 Infiniti M30. I've heard that these can be used with the VG30E/T harnesses. So I'm going to try messing with that at some point. There's a good bit more splicing involved since you have to actually splice in all new connectors. I got to thinking, that with that much work involved it'd be a shame to have to cut up the original harness connectors and no longer be able to run the Z31 ECU. So, I figured since I have two Z31 ECUs that are of no use, I'm going to desolder the ECU side connectors and try and make an adapter out of them. Plug the harness plugs into the old ECU plugs and then that will run to the new ECU plugs to go into the M30 ECU. Then that way you can swap between the two. I'm thinking either two ways.
Solder the wiring directly to the ECU side connectors, or see if there's some kind of circuit board I can connect it all too.
As far as the ECU goes it's apparently way better. It can be accessed through consult which alone is a huge bonus. It supposedly can be tuned for various octanes. It uses individual injector firing up until 3000 RPM when then it switches to batch fire. It actually uses the throttle position sensors voltage to actually determine throttle position over the regular on/off idle. I guess there's plenty more that can be done. People say the difference between the Z31 ECU and the M30 ECU are night and day. In that it runs so much smoother, start-ups, idle, everything.
Solder the wiring directly to the ECU side connectors, or see if there's some kind of circuit board I can connect it all too.
As far as the ECU goes it's apparently way better. It can be accessed through consult which alone is a huge bonus. It supposedly can be tuned for various octanes. It uses individual injector firing up until 3000 RPM when then it switches to batch fire. It actually uses the throttle position sensors voltage to actually determine throttle position over the regular on/off idle. I guess there's plenty more that can be done. People say the difference between the Z31 ECU and the M30 ECU are night and day. In that it runs so much smoother, start-ups, idle, everything.
Last edited by duowing; 09-03-2009 at 11:01 PM.
09-04-2009, 01:38 AM
#9021
Ruff Ryder
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: palm desert
Posts: 6,140
in an N/A s130 2+2 with factory suspension, stock brakes and those tires with enough sidewall to go to the moon and back, you arent going to be able to go fast enough to need a roll bar, even with a $5k suspension setup and a $5k brake system you arent going to need it. I'm averaging 107MPH on the "fastest lap" competition and it is calling for a roll bar. pretty much the basic rule of thumb is that anything over 49mph entering and exiting a corner is going to require a roll bar for safety. plus your off the shelf roll bar for a z car, especially one thats bolted in, isnt going to be able to sustain even a low speed crash, also a majority of the off the shelf roll bars dont offer any side protection.
09-04-2009, 01:59 AM
#9023
Ruff Ryder
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: palm desert
Posts: 6,140
so your going to make it even more dangerous? you know a piece of roll cage tubing is alot harder then your head., can't tell you how many civic guys I've seen with cracked skulls from little fender benders with a full cage.
