I put both harnesses side by side on a table in December, and haven't looked at them since. Which is good because I think I'm going to mock wire up the stock L28ET efi to make sure it starts, then do the Z31T ecu upgrade. That way if the motor doesn't start, I don't have to wonder if it was something besides the ecu upgrade (less trouble shooting = less headaches).

And x2 on the summer cars! I've been daily driving my 280zxt for a couple days now. Almost 200 miles on the motor!

 

Oh I thought of a few more things, do any of you guys have the specific part numbers for the proper Walboro pump to use? I found the Walbro 255Lph is what people use I believe, but then I found there's a Walbro 255Lph-HP, and then a flipped version of both of those?

Also two other things. How exactly do you get the wiring harness out of the car? Do you just work that rubber grommet until it comes out then you can just slide it all through the firewall?

Finally where on the motor exactly do you lift it by? When pulling the motor, we couldn't figure out exactly where you're supposed to lift it so we ended up using a combination of brackets for like the A/C compressor, the intake manifold, and the power steering pump bracket to lift it all.

Have you even gotten your 280ZX's motor broken in yet? I don't remember if you mentioned whether you had reached the break in point or not.

 

Hum... maybe google the part numbers? I don't know if it makes any difference other than you need the Inline one (unless you are going in-tank).

Yep... just disconnect all the shiz and pull out from the engine bay side of the firewall. The 280z is easy, the 280zxt is a bit more of a pain. You'll also have to cut some wires on the 280zxt that go up into the dash. The pics on HBZ show pretty well which they are. I did it outside, in the dark, during a blizzard, so that didn't make it much fun.

I use the front pull mount attached right behind the steering pump, or the steering pump bracket for the front, then wrap the chain around the egr mount in the back. If you have a long enough chain, try to make a triangle (3 mounts take more weight, and gives more control).

200mi on the rebuild... I've been driving like a grandma. At 500 I'll change the oil and drive easy for another 500.

 

i might buy it. just depends on price and final product condition. cause i'll need to ship as well. just go MS lol. sound like the right timing to since im probably gonna rock the DSM a little while, unless this guy wants to trade his 05 ninja ZX6R. he was looking for a DSM to trade and i think i sparked his interest, he claims he doesnt ride at all now and all his friends sold their bikes. so if i can do a straight trade i will cause i'll make money off selling the bike. cause i def don't need 2 bikes, at least not 2 nice bikes, maybe one extra for stunting or something that i can race rail or crash cage and streetfighter out lol. something i dont give a turd about.

 

Alright, well I'm thinking I might just go ahead and have a valve job done, new seats, etc for the head. Order the MSA timing kit, redo that, and possibly grab me some ARP head studs. Anyway what headgaskets do you guys recommend?

As for ARP studs/nuts can someone assist me with this? I'm looking on their site at their online catalog. I see part numbers for 12 point nuts, but no number for the studs? Looks like part number 202-4206 or is this like a whole set?

Looks like Summit sells the kit for $139, what have you guys paid?

 

I'd say go w/ an MLS headgasket, but apparently they are getting hard to find. I think you can get the 1mm from certain companies... maybe? Whatever you do, don't use a Felpro headgasket. Go to Nissan if you need stock.

I bought my ARP head studs from here: ( http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...3AIT&viewitem= )

$138 shipped... but if you can get them through Summit for the same price, do that.

 

Well I guess it's time to start ordering up some more parts then. I got my clutch already, I'm hoping my flywheel gets here soon too. After this is all done I'll probably be kicking myself for not rebuilding the bottom end. Although 99k miles on an L28 really is far from needing a rebuild.

 

ok boys--ya like seeing engines?? this is a REAL engine---will push a 28000 pound boat at more than 5 kts thru deeep blue seas......is a diesel....costs more than a Z......go figger.......





http://picasaweb.google.com/zeehag/M...eat=directlink

 

bah, if you got stock compression i say just ARP main stud it up. dont even bother with the rod bolts im sure you'll be able to push 400hp if you even make it that far reliably. not biggy G! theres a company i found making copper HG i believe. hold please.....


heres one

http://www.zccjdm.com/catalog.php/az...S_HEAD_GASKET_

or:
http://www.zccjdm.com/catalog.php/az...R_HEADGASKETS_

just promise me this, look up the proper head removal and installation procedures as far as torquing and torque patterns go for the head. i did it backwards cause its what my buddy read to me, little did he know.... i thought it sounded weird and i think that is part of the reason why my head warped.

 

I was going to say I thought the Haynes Guide along with the FSM shows the correct torquing procedure so I was going to make sure to carefully follow that.

Hmm I've been reading over these swap threads and it looks like I don't even need the fuel pump relay from my ZXT? If I'm reading this right, I can just cut the ground wire from the FPR in the 76' and run the ground to pin 108 on the ECU for the Z31 ECU? Oh by the way Nismo where are those pics on HybridZ that show which wires to cut that go up into the dash? I found a pic in that swap thread on Zcar, the one by wannabreZ, where it's a plug with 6 wires that you save?

On a side note I'm sorta dissapointed, as I've been pulling this car apart I'm finding out that the body is actually in really good shape. The firewall and battery tray that I thought were all rusting away is just surface rust. I haven't checked the passenger floor pan yet, but the driver's pan is like perfect. So far the worst rust is the inner quarter panel area and it's starting to rust away in the spare tire well.

 

could always sell the body maybe make a couple hundred bucks.

 

As for the headgaskets which do you think would be the better choice, a standard head gasket or the copper gasket?

I did buy a set of brackets from that zccjdm.com site. They were conversion brackets so you can mount up the early 240Z front and rear style bumpers to a later model S30 without any modification.

 

welllll.... i dont have any real personal experience with copper HG. i will bet any money they are much stronger than any other material gasket other than an MLS. i dont know how it would compare to an MLS though. if your looking to save a little money go with the copper, if you dont mind forking out 200+ for a HG that you at least know stuff about get the MLS one (multi layer steel)

 

snw we need to have a battle royal with our z's lets both build an s30 maximum amount you can spend is $3k and that includes purchase price of the car. the battle ground is southern CA, three targets: car endurance, turning and flat out speed.

 

Page 2 of the HBZ write-up has a supplement on the 82-83 zxt wiring: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=99620&page=2

You need to yank the fuse links & fi relay from behind the battery. The green fuel pump relay inside the cabin you don't touch.

EDIT... I meant don't touch the green fp relay for removal of efi harness. You will tap into the 280z one for the Z31T ECU swap.

 

as fun as that sounds.... i cant do it.... i have an obsession with making a car as beautiful as it is fast and would spend closer to 5k. plus, **** thats far lol

 

Dude Ill totally do it, but give me one year at least. And for car endurance lets make it a road trip to Canada.

 

what l28et costs too much to make power out of?

 

thanks for that link Nismo. I managed to get the FI harness out. The only thing I cut was the ground wire from the Fuel Pump Relay that ran to ECU pin 108 and I cut the 3 other fusible links you don't need. Everything else came out nice and easy. I still have to get the section of the ignition harness. I'll grab that tomorrow.

 

Well I'm definitely pulling the head, I was kind of on the fence too because it would probably take a while, but the guy I bought my 280Z from has 2 rebuilt P90 heads for sale, one of them is a polished head. So I figure I can save myself a crap load of time by buying one of his.

I ordered a timing chain kit, arp studs, various gaskets, and now I just need to get a head gasket...

 

and a performance cam!!!!! then you are set to put everything together.

 

well its official, the stock clutch on my R1 is toast, after 10k rough, abusive and just plain hard miles my clutch is slipping anything more then 1/4 throttle above 4.5k when warm.

 

I'm trying to figure out where to buy a good headgasket. Or where to buy them. I'm maybe thinking of just going stock Nissan Headgasket. It'll probably hold fine with ARP studs. I saw that headgasket that you linked to snw the $200-something gasket on zccjdm, I don't know if that's an MLS gasket. Do you guys know where I can buy it. I'm trying to figure out what's good. I'm not too worried about price at this point as I'm already spending enough on this motor.

 

the 200+ one is an MLS gasket by kameari or w/e


the 170 one is a copper one and is pretty robust, copper gaskets are kick ***, i just dont know if they are considered better than MLS ones or not, but def better than stock. thezstore.com used to sell MLS head gaskets int he performance section. i think. i'd say get the copper one unless thezstore sells MLS ones for a similar to better price compared to the copper ones.

 

here you go linky: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PEM09/10-2458

that is what appears to be a Zstore brand MLS head gasket

and then the Kameari one again: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PEM09/10-2455