97gtp

Has anybody used the part? Has anyone Installed it? Why does it say its hard to put in when the engine is out can I install while the engine is in? If you have it is it still working? Does this harness go all the way. To the ecu? I thought there was one white wire coming from the ecu that splits into two one wire and one a shielded.. This part looks like it has a connector on both ends. How would his work? Would I be better off running my own wires straight from the ecu since I don't know where the harness is messing up at?
Thanks all I feel like I'm beating this subject to death but I just want this fixed thanks again

This is the part btw. http://www.z1motorsports.com/product_info.php?products_id=6565{692}3382

Skully

The sub harness is difficult to put in, IF YOU ARE NOT RELOCATING THE KNOCK SENSOR. It is impossible to replace it to the original spot without taking apart most of the top end, and removing the intake plenum, as it sits underneath it, around the middle of the block. Even when the engine is out, I don't think you can reach it due to its location. Replacing the wire from the ecu, to the main connector is useless if that part is good. What you need to do is run tests like you have been doing and figure out if the sensor, the harness, or the wire back to the ECU pin is bad. I have relocated my sensor, and have not had any issues yet, this was back in 2010 or so.


-if the knock sensor is bad, you can relocate, or take off the intake plenum to get to it and replace it and the harness. ( I would replace sensor and harness then)
-if the harness is bad, you have to take out the intake plenum and replace it. (I would replace both)
-if the connection from the ecu to the sub harness is bad, you would have to replace the wire. Most likely its the first 2, but who knows, wire could be cut somewhere.

97gtp

So Is there a good picture of what jumping the pins with the 1mohm resistor somewhere? I think ill just jump it right t the ecu since I have no clue where the wire is busted, the ohms meter can only tell me so much. Do you know how to bypass the wire at the ecu? Do I just run a wire to a resister from the white wire then run a ground from the chassis to the resistor?

Skully

Run a 1m ohm (not 10mohm) resistor from pin 23 to a ground, and see if that makes a difference on the ecu. If it does, its the wire coming from it. Be careful not to short anything, and make sure you have the right pin count. White wire.

http://z32.wikispaces.com/file/view/ECCS_colored_m.gif

Just to set you on a good path, because you are bypassing this. If this works, I would honestly run a wire from the pin out to the knock sensor. I would not feel "good" driving around with a bypassed knocked sensor.

97gtp

same here, thats why im beating this topic to death lol, I would like to run a wire to the knock but i have read it could be tough having to have to run one wire then have a second wire spliced in, and making sure one is shielded.
I dont know what size of wire, or how to splice two together and making sure one is shielded? i assume the shield isnt anything special other than rubber and tape?
would it look something like this?

Skully

Not sure what gauge the wire is, haven't been in there in a long time. I am sure google could tell you. I think that would work for testing, just make sure the other end is not plugged into the sensor still.

Shielded wire is not just plain wire, it actually has shielding around it to eliminate noise.

97gtp

ok so white wire right from the ecu, to the resistor. ground wire from the resistor to the ground-
the rest of the white wire heading up into the fire wall out to the engine is dcd for now and resplice later if needed?
if so im going to head out to radio shack grab more resistors and have at it

Skully

Before you cut and splice...did you actually do a test with a 1mohm resistor?

97gtp

I am
Going to do it all
Again today . If not I will try to run a new wire, I hear that the coaxial cables is basically all it is

Skully

Sounds good man, good luck! Hope you figure it out, like I said most of the time its the sub harness or the det sensor, and you can get both online with a longer bolt to relocate.

97gtp

okay so i am done testing and screwing around. I bought a sub harness and a new knock and it should be here in a few days. i am going to follow the relocation steps and put it on one of those two bolts on the plentum*
i tested the knock sensor connector( stuck to the engine to the ks NOT the free moving connector) and my ohms meter didnt read anything at all. not sure if it was supposed to but i figured the ks has never been replaced i should probably just get it done. i also found the wire on pin 23 and i didnt want to try to add a resistor in there because it looked a little crazy and i wouldnt wanna roll that way anyways so im thinking that when i get these parts and replace the new harness and ks if it still doesnt work i wanna run a new wire from ecu to the ks. now my question is, do i just pull this brownish beige wire ,put a new one in and run it through the fire wall to the ks? or should i cut the wire an inch or so from the ecu and soder it together with a new one.
killing this problem before it gets the best of me

Skully

I would try to pull the wire out and crimp the new connector on it and replace the whole wire. It is shielded, so soldering it partway, you might lose the shielding effect. I am not an electrician, could work either way, just saying.