how to turbo charge a 1990 z32 N/A??
#26
Well its not that much older than me. I'm 17 and in a trade school for automotive and working part time at a mom and pop shop as an apprentice. Yes its a little bit old tech for me but I like knowing how my trade came to b so I love working on cars that u can't plug in a cable and it tells u what to fix. It takes out all the fun of training to be a mechanic.
#27
Old tech? Most domestics coming off the production line today don't have variable valve timing, dual overhead cams, and four wheel steering (well, your NA doesn't have that, either, but if you bought a TT...)... even independent rear suspensions. lol
The 300ZX is still advanced by today's standards, but my point is that sports cars are not generally reliable, and reliability also decreases with age. Thus, your 21 year old sports car is going to cost you a lot to keep running. If you don't retrofit pintle-less injectors, you'll face injector failure annually (to the tune of $150 each), thanks to our government. There could be hoses are probably in the process of drying out and you'll need to replace them when they leak. The FPR and damper could be going bad. The high pressure power steering line commonly leaks. The list goes on. Not to mention, the harder you drive a car, the more quickly things go bad. This is why nobody recommends sports cars to teenagers... they're expensive. It's not that the 300ZX is any less reliable than any other (it's probably more-so, as long as you don't put **** parts on it), but it's also FAR more expensive to repair (properly) when things do break.
The 300ZX is still advanced by today's standards, but my point is that sports cars are not generally reliable, and reliability also decreases with age. Thus, your 21 year old sports car is going to cost you a lot to keep running. If you don't retrofit pintle-less injectors, you'll face injector failure annually (to the tune of $150 each), thanks to our government. There could be hoses are probably in the process of drying out and you'll need to replace them when they leak. The FPR and damper could be going bad. The high pressure power steering line commonly leaks. The list goes on. Not to mention, the harder you drive a car, the more quickly things go bad. This is why nobody recommends sports cars to teenagers... they're expensive. It's not that the 300ZX is any less reliable than any other (it's probably more-so, as long as you don't put **** parts on it), but it's also FAR more expensive to repair (properly) when things do break.
Last edited by ZLover4Life; 01-21-2011 at 08:47 PM.
#28
me and my cousin just had a huge fight because i told him my car was worth more than his. he said never in my dreams will my car be worth more than his because his in in perfect condition and mine is in fair condition. so i went on kelly blue book and searched his car in excellent condition: 3390
mine in fair condition: 3500 or somethin like that.
main point is even mine being in fair condition it still is worth more or about the same as his. in excellent condition it says mine is worth 5600.
he is still fighting with me. i just counted it as a win for me
mine in fair condition: 3500 or somethin like that.
main point is even mine being in fair condition it still is worth more or about the same as his. in excellent condition it says mine is worth 5600.
he is still fighting with me. i just counted it as a win for me
#30
He is driving a 95 eclipse gst. And he is being cocky about it because he upgraded the turbo and its faster. Now he saying his car is worth more than mine and I said it isn't because his car in excellent condition is worth less than my car in fair condition and he even lowered his value because he started upgrading parts making the car less reliable
#31
It's the early second gen fwd eclipse, they were uglier, still could crank walk, and the only eclipses in demand are AWD. his car is and always will be worth 4grand... unless he turns it into a true race car. or something. This i know and promise... and 4k is if it truly is in excellent condition inside and out.
However with the issues you described with your car it sounds like it isn't worth more than 1.5k at the moment. Get it into truly excellent condition and you could get 5k for it.
However with the issues you described with your car it sounds like it isn't worth more than 1.5k at the moment. Get it into truly excellent condition and you could get 5k for it.
#32
1990 Z32 NA
base MSRP: $28,600
222bhp RWD
1995 GS-T
base MSRP: $19,999
210bhp FWD
While condition is key (and yours doesn't sound to be in great condition), the 300ZX is the more advanced, more valuable machine. He's driving an entry level sports coupe, you're driving a GT car. A nice GS-T can be worth more than a crappy Z32 NA, but in equal condition, the 300ZX will be worth more.
And it is a dumb argument.
base MSRP: $28,600
222bhp RWD
1995 GS-T
base MSRP: $19,999
210bhp FWD
While condition is key (and yours doesn't sound to be in great condition), the 300ZX is the more advanced, more valuable machine. He's driving an entry level sports coupe, you're driving a GT car. A nice GS-T can be worth more than a crappy Z32 NA, but in equal condition, the 300ZX will be worth more.
And it is a dumb argument.
#33
thats what i told him. i am going to end up restoring it to complete oem. i don't have any specific plans with my z anymore except having a fun car to drive in the summer. im about to look into a subaru for my racing needs. but my z may become my daily driver.
#34
The NA is a great summer cruising car. Just not worth modifying at all unless you want a nice sounding catback. But don't expect much except a nicer sound.
A subaru isn't the best for a racing car either. If you want a 4wd car that is inexpensive, has limitless aftermarket parts, and is proven to go fast as ****, get a DSM.
A subaru isn't the best for a racing car either. If you want a 4wd car that is inexpensive, has limitless aftermarket parts, and is proven to go fast as ****, get a DSM.
#35
#37
I know this thread is old but i cant believe i stumbled upon this dis-information garbage.
A vg30de CAN be turbo. or tt. It takes some work. If you understand dynamic and static compression you guys would know that with the higher 10.5:1 compression in the n/a would only require about 3-4# of boost to reach the same hp as a tt 8.5:1 compression on stock 9# of boost. Therefore less boost is required to reach the same goals. I've turbo'ed motors from all makes up to 12:1 compression on 93 pump and up to 14.5:1 on 110 low lead.
If you use a stock turbo setup on a n/a motor remember less boost to reach your goals. Also tuning will be a LOT more touchy at that point since there's not room to re-map like on a lower compression motor. It would require someone with very good tuning skills and a good program like nistune or zemulator. If detonation is an issue it can be corrected by #1- colder plugs. Colder then normally needed for boost levels. #2 retard the ignition timing. #3 if that isnt enough a water/meth injection kit can be had for around 300 and is fairly easy to install. Will require installation and tuning the injectors though. Water/meth kit will reduce cylinder temps drastically and reduce pre-ignition by a ton.
So to tell someone a n/a cant be turbo is bull****. It can be done, has been done reliably. Its actually better then a tt engine because you still retain the low end torque and hp from the higher compression. Take the turbos off a tt engine and it would be a complete dog and lifeless. And that's what you see until the turbo's spool.
Ive owned a successful na-tt z and i plan on doing the same to the current one i have now. And its actually cheaper then acquiring a used tt front clip. Running a fmic will eliminate the need for the tt core support and front fascia.
Check youtube. Theres a guy on there with a tt na z and he's pushing 620whp!
A vg30de CAN be turbo. or tt. It takes some work. If you understand dynamic and static compression you guys would know that with the higher 10.5:1 compression in the n/a would only require about 3-4# of boost to reach the same hp as a tt 8.5:1 compression on stock 9# of boost. Therefore less boost is required to reach the same goals. I've turbo'ed motors from all makes up to 12:1 compression on 93 pump and up to 14.5:1 on 110 low lead.
If you use a stock turbo setup on a n/a motor remember less boost to reach your goals. Also tuning will be a LOT more touchy at that point since there's not room to re-map like on a lower compression motor. It would require someone with very good tuning skills and a good program like nistune or zemulator. If detonation is an issue it can be corrected by #1- colder plugs. Colder then normally needed for boost levels. #2 retard the ignition timing. #3 if that isnt enough a water/meth injection kit can be had for around 300 and is fairly easy to install. Will require installation and tuning the injectors though. Water/meth kit will reduce cylinder temps drastically and reduce pre-ignition by a ton.
So to tell someone a n/a cant be turbo is bull****. It can be done, has been done reliably. Its actually better then a tt engine because you still retain the low end torque and hp from the higher compression. Take the turbos off a tt engine and it would be a complete dog and lifeless. And that's what you see until the turbo's spool.
Ive owned a successful na-tt z and i plan on doing the same to the current one i have now. And its actually cheaper then acquiring a used tt front clip. Running a fmic will eliminate the need for the tt core support and front fascia.
Check youtube. Theres a guy on there with a tt na z and he's pushing 620whp!
#38
You're wrong about everything, on every post youve shared. It's a gross know-it-all.
^ You are completely ignoring the relationship of temperature and pressure, and this is why you need to do a ****-ton more reading before posting. If you think you can turbocharge your VG30DE, PLEASE try it. And make sure to come back here with pictures of the blown engine so I can laugh at you. Search TwinTurbo.NET - you'll find plenty of testimony of people who put turbos on an NA motor and blew it to pieces. In fact, there's only one guy who didn't blow his NA motor to pieces... and he limits himself to something like 6psi (which is less than the Twin Turbo comes with from the factory, and thus it makes less power, despite the higher compression ratio). I invite you to try to prove me wrong - it won't happen.
Many vehicles are over-engineered. LS engines can handle relatively substantial boost, too. I'd imagine any motor designed to rev to 9k rpms needs very tight tolerances (by the way, since HP = TQ*RPM/5252, the fact that it revs to 9k rpm explains much of why it can make so much horsepower). The VG30DE, on the other hand, was not so over-engineered... they had a VG30DETT to make gobs of power, they didn't see a need for the non-turbo version to do the same. (P.S. This is why I said "the NA motor" and not "an NA motor"... some can handle some boost, others cannot. The VG30DE is the latter.)
Many vehicles are over-engineered. LS engines can handle relatively substantial boost, too. I'd imagine any motor designed to rev to 9k rpms needs very tight tolerances (by the way, since HP = TQ*RPM/5252, the fact that it revs to 9k rpm explains much of why it can make so much horsepower). The VG30DE, on the other hand, was not so over-engineered... they had a VG30DETT to make gobs of power, they didn't see a need for the non-turbo version to do the same. (P.S. This is why I said "the NA motor" and not "an NA motor"... some can handle some boost, others cannot. The VG30DE is the latter.)
like I said, I've never made a profile on an online form, but after reading your responses, I just had to let you know, as well as clear it up for everyone else here reading, that you are wrong, and what you have to share; is very outdated logic.)
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