Well its not that much older than me. I'm 17 and in a trade school for automotive and working part time at a mom and pop shop as an apprentice. Yes its a little bit old tech for me but I like knowing how my trade came to b so I love working on cars that u can't plug in a cable and it tells u what to fix. It takes out all the fun of training to be a mechanic.

 

Old tech? Most domestics coming off the production line today don't have variable valve timing, dual overhead cams, and four wheel steering (well, your NA doesn't have that, either, but if you bought a TT...)... even independent rear suspensions. lol

The 300ZX is still advanced by today's standards, but my point is that sports cars are not generally reliable, and reliability also decreases with age. Thus, your 21 year old sports car is going to cost you a lot to keep running. If you don't retrofit pintle-less injectors, you'll face injector failure annually (to the tune of $150 each), thanks to our government. There could be hoses are probably in the process of drying out and you'll need to replace them when they leak. The FPR and damper could be going bad. The high pressure power steering line commonly leaks. The list goes on. Not to mention, the harder you drive a car, the more quickly things go bad. This is why nobody recommends sports cars to teenagers... they're expensive. It's not that the 300ZX is any less reliable than any other (it's probably more-so, as long as you don't put **** parts on it), but it's also FAR more expensive to repair (properly) when things do break.

 

me and my cousin just had a huge fight because i told him my car was worth more than his. he said never in my dreams will my car be worth more than his because his in in perfect condition and mine is in fair condition. so i went on kelly blue book and searched his car in excellent condition: 3390

mine in fair condition: 3500 or somethin like that.

main point is even mine being in fair condition it still is worth more or about the same as his. in excellent condition it says mine is worth 5600.

he is still fighting with me. i just counted it as a win for me

 

even though that is a pretty dumb fight... what is he driving?

 

He is driving a 95 eclipse gst. And he is being cocky about it because he upgraded the turbo and its faster. Now he saying his car is worth more than mine and I said it isn't because his car in excellent condition is worth less than my car in fair condition and he even lowered his value because he started upgrading parts making the car less reliable

 

It's the early second gen fwd eclipse, they were uglier, still could crank walk, and the only eclipses in demand are AWD. his car is and always will be worth 4grand... unless he turns it into a true race car. or something. This i know and promise... and 4k is if it truly is in excellent condition inside and out.

However with the issues you described with your car it sounds like it isn't worth more than 1.5k at the moment. Get it into truly excellent condition and you could get 5k for it.

 

1990 Z32 NA
base MSRP: $28,600
222bhp RWD

1995 GS-T
base MSRP: $19,999
210bhp FWD

While condition is key (and yours doesn't sound to be in great condition), the 300ZX is the more advanced, more valuable machine. He's driving an entry level sports coupe, you're driving a GT car. A nice GS-T can be worth more than a crappy Z32 NA, but in equal condition, the 300ZX will be worth more.

And it is a dumb argument.

 

thats what i told him. i am going to end up restoring it to complete oem. i don't have any specific plans with my z anymore except having a fun car to drive in the summer. im about to look into a subaru for my racing needs. but my z may become my daily driver.

 

The NA is a great summer cruising car. Just not worth modifying at all unless you want a nice sounding catback. But don't expect much except a nicer sound.

A subaru isn't the best for a racing car either. If you want a 4wd car that is inexpensive, has limitless aftermarket parts, and is proven to go fast as ****, get a DSM.

 

lol @ the irony, given the argument he had with his DSM-owning brother.

 

hahaha, yup, but his is a fwd early second gen turd. lol.

 

I know this thread is old but i cant believe i stumbled upon this dis-information garbage.

A vg30de CAN be turbo. or tt. It takes some work. If you understand dynamic and static compression you guys would know that with the higher 10.5:1 compression in the n/a would only require about 3-4# of boost to reach the same hp as a tt 8.5:1 compression on stock 9# of boost. Therefore less boost is required to reach the same goals. I've turbo'ed motors from all makes up to 12:1 compression on 93 pump and up to 14.5:1 on 110 low lead.

If you use a stock turbo setup on a n/a motor remember less boost to reach your goals. Also tuning will be a LOT more touchy at that point since there's not room to re-map like on a lower compression motor. It would require someone with very good tuning skills and a good program like nistune or zemulator. If detonation is an issue it can be corrected by #1- colder plugs. Colder then normally needed for boost levels. #2 retard the ignition timing. #3 if that isnt enough a water/meth injection kit can be had for around 300 and is fairly easy to install. Will require installation and tuning the injectors though. Water/meth kit will reduce cylinder temps drastically and reduce pre-ignition by a ton.

So to tell someone a n/a cant be turbo is bull****. It can be done, has been done reliably. Its actually better then a tt engine because you still retain the low end torque and hp from the higher compression. Take the turbos off a tt engine and it would be a complete dog and lifeless. And that's what you see until the turbo's spool.
Ive owned a successful na-tt z and i plan on doing the same to the current one i have now. And its actually cheaper then acquiring a used tt front clip. Running a fmic will eliminate the need for the tt core support and front fascia.
Check youtube. Theres a guy on there with a tt na z and he's pushing 620whp!

 

everything you have shared has been false or lies. I went ahead and made an account for the first time ever, after reading all of your opinionated bs rhetoric. You don't understand compression differences and you clearly dont understand the difference in added performance. You seem to still be stuck in the early millennium. Because everything you shared is false. I'm currently NA engine, tt swapped, for 3 years on stock twins at 12 psi, making easy 400hp pulls on stock ecu with flashed eprom chip. I've pulled 655hp on 20 psi on the dyno as well with a set of 740 nismos. What you're claiming about higher compression heat and denotation, are problems we fought back in 2002 with lower quality fuels, and bad tunes, (running higher compression turbos, on Lower compression Turbo tunes, causes lean condition, lifts combustion temps) but a lot has changed with the Advent of ethanol fuels today. Force-feeding higher compression is actually how it's done. Anyone who says otherwise, is completely out of the loop. Anyone who argues otherwise, needs to go find a different hobby. So instead of talking to everybody like you have a slight case of autism. Why don't you just go, take your own advice, and do your own research? You might have everyone else fooled, but I can completely tell you're fully out of the loop here, and being disrespectful as well as difficult to people who are trying to learn.
like I said, I've never made a profile on an online form, but after reading your responses, I just had to let you know, as well as clear it up for everyone else here reading, that you are wrong, and what you have to share; is very outdated logic.)