I have an 86 na 5 speed with air conditioning.
Had problem with AC, but now the problem is with the performance of the engine. The car won't stay idled, so i ran the codes per FSM. Came back with a 12, 23, and 31.
I think my choice to start the fix, is to replace the Throttle valve switch, and see if i can at least clear that from the code memory, and hopefully solve the "can't idle" problem.
What i want to know if that is a part that can be easily removed from a donor car, put it in my car, and have it work just fine.
Or is that something i should purchase BRAND NEW , with a warranty, from a parts giant?.
They are kind of pricy new, and i am willing to pay the price. I am just wondering if a few from the bone yard (1 that i would actually pay for) , would get me the same results, and allow me to spend that $$$$ on other needed parts, like spark plugs, and the like.
If anyone disagrees with my path of repair, please suggest to me another way to acheive the final result, that my Zx car will roam the highways and byways of south Florida, once again in the near future.
Had problem with AC, but now the problem is with the performance of the engine. The car won't stay idled, so i ran the codes per FSM. Came back with a 12, 23, and 31.
I think my choice to start the fix, is to replace the Throttle valve switch, and see if i can at least clear that from the code memory, and hopefully solve the "can't idle" problem.
What i want to know if that is a part that can be easily removed from a donor car, put it in my car, and have it work just fine.
Or is that something i should purchase BRAND NEW , with a warranty, from a parts giant?.
They are kind of pricy new, and i am willing to pay the price. I am just wondering if a few from the bone yard (1 that i would actually pay for) , would get me the same results, and allow me to spend that $$$$ on other needed parts, like spark plugs, and the like.
If anyone disagrees with my path of repair, please suggest to me another way to acheive the final result, that my Zx car will roam the highways and byways of south Florida, once again in the near future.
Grumpy & Helpful
it isn't that complicated a piece of gear why not test it out per fsm and then decide what to do. it is just a fancy switch. I am assuming you are talking about the throttle position sensor since throttle valve switch does not compute
The Good Twin
Welcome to ZDriver!
I would first do an OHM resistance test on the TPS to see if it's set correctly (open loop vs continuity). The Haynes manual / FSM covers that test.
Second, if it fails that test, remove the black cover & inspect the contact points. You can also reset it much easier w/ the cover off.
EDIT... Roger beat me to the punchline.
I would first do an OHM resistance test on the TPS to see if it's set correctly (open loop vs continuity). The Haynes manual / FSM covers that test.
Second, if it fails that test, remove the black cover & inspect the contact points. You can also reset it much easier w/ the cover off.
EDIT... Roger beat me to the punchline.

Quote:
I was calling it what the FSM manual calls it on page EF and EC 16. What am i supposed to calling it?.Originally Posted by rogerz
it isn't that complicated a piece of gear why not test it out per fsm and then decide what to do. it is just a fancy switch. I am assuming you are talking about the throttle position sensor since throttle valve switch does not compute
Quote:
I would first do an OHM resistance test on the TPS to see if it's set correctly (open loop vs continuity). The Haynes manual / FSM covers that test.
Second, if it fails that test, remove the black cover & inspect the contact points. You can also reset it much easier w/ the cover off.
EDIT... Roger beat me to the punchline.
Thank you , good suggestion. I noticed just playing with the connection, it doesn't snap on tighly, or should i say "LOCK IN".Originally Posted by NismoPick
Welcome to ZDriver! I would first do an OHM resistance test on the TPS to see if it's set correctly (open loop vs continuity). The Haynes manual / FSM covers that test.
Second, if it fails that test, remove the black cover & inspect the contact points. You can also reset it much easier w/ the cover off.
EDIT... Roger beat me to the punchline.
I can push it the 2 tightly together, but can easily pull them apart also, with no visible way to have a tab there to hold them in place.Gotta go to Harbor freight, get a multi meter, and a timing light, because if i get this car running somewhat normally, i want to learn how to do a complete tuneup, before i put the zx , back on the road.
Quote:
Test it...
So to get my car running by asking help on this forum, i have to join you in that world?Originally Posted by NismoPick
Yeah, Nissan calls it that, but in the entire world of fuel injection, it's called a TPS (Throttle Position Sensor).Test it...
I thought calling a part by its correct name would deter negative remarks, not encourage them. I appreciate your help, but you don't have to make me feel stupid cause i don't know my car like the back of my hand, like others supposedly do.
I have been driving these cars for 30 years, i have done WAY too much spending at the different mechanics, mostly with poor results.
I am trying to learn how to repair this car on my own. At least give me that goal to attempt, before i blow it up for good.
Then you can ridicule me , till the cow's come home!.