zzeeexlover

So this all started with trying to bring the Zx back to life after my in-laws tried to kill it. So, I was replacing the steering colum, trying to fix the wiring on it. Well, the hubby got everything back together, or so he thought, everything was working fine, except the excess horsepower gage. So he put a jumper wire on it, and something shorted out ( loud high pitched, moaning squel, from around the middle of the engine, behind the distributor area). Now, the check lamp relay engages the dummy lights when the engine was running. (The radiator, brake and washer fluid idiot lights constantly on >.<!) But the car is operating normally, just wondering if anyone knows what could have possibly shorted out?

Goofyz

excess horsepower gauge? Do you mean the turbo gauge? never heard it called that before. But anyway! Sounds like your alternator went **** up, that squeal was either the pulley/belt or bearing/pulley/belt saying it had enough, all the idiot lights on point to an under current problem. Here's how ya test it. 1. Test the voltage between the terminals of the battery when car is off.
2. Write it down on a piece of paper.
3. Start car
4. Test between battery terminals again
5. Write down results on same piece of paper

If first number is less than 12.2 vdc you will need to charge your battery
If second number is NOT greater than first number you will need new Alternator; it should read about 13.5 vdc.

zzeeexlover

The excess horse power gage is on the digital dash, it's a non turbo... it's good for things like optimizing gas mileage, and knowing how much *** you have left in the pedal. I will try this however, it didn't sound like a belt. It didn't even come from the front of the engine.

inqui-Z-tor

LOL .. I was expecting a thread about those of us that are 5' 5" in height!

johnZboy

ROTFL!!! I don't which is the most hilarious. Your comment, or, the "excess horsepower gauge".

AZ-ZBum

hahaha... john, I love your signature.

They need to just make it:
"People Eating Tasty Animals"

zzeeexlover

Well if you look it up the the manual for a digital dash or ask Nissan or a Nissan tech that's what they call it.

Also, if you don't have something constructive to say please don't post here.

Goofyz

but not an eighties 300zx, I honestly didn't know what it was called, but I do know what you are talking about now

AZ-ZBum

Because at this point, I will have to say that you either don't have, or haven't read your owner's, Haynes, or factory service manuals.

So read this:
http://www.az-zbum.com/information.warning.lights.shtml

zzeeexlover

Yeah I understand the concept of idiot lights. But if they're all on while the car is running something isn't right. All the things showing up on the dash are not bad, I have checked each individual one. Even checked all the sensors. I have both the original owners manual and the haynes one, and neither say what could have caused this issue. I think it could be a shorted wire somewhere in the harness, and was trying to see if someone could try to point me in the right direction.

johnZboy

Has this "jumper" wire been disconnected? Was the "jumper" wire a full 12V positive, like straight from the battery post? Was the engine running when this "jumper" wire was connected?

I honestly thought the "excess horsepower" gauge was nothing but a vacuum gauge and the only juice going to it was for the dash light.

Sounds a lot like you've melted the insulation off of a few related wires, and now you're getting a constant 12v across a bunch of wires in a sub-harness.

I did not intend to offend you in my reply to Quizzy. Mostly poking a little fun at him. Sorry.

AZ-ZBum

Read about ALL of the lights:
http://www.az-zbum.com/information.warning.lights.shtml

zzeeexlover

The jumper wire was placed in the plug for the excess horse powers vacuum sensor. He believes he touched positive to positive that's when he heard the quiet high pitched squeel comming from what he believes is the harness between the plentum and the throttle body. Today we started the task of opening up the harness and going to start looking for either bubbled up wires (the insulation) or bare wires. Something I didn't want to do, but guess there's not an easy fix for this one.

Thanks for all the input everyone, but looks like we'll have a wonderful fun job ahead of us.

AZ-ZBum

Have you bothered to check the alternator yet?

zzeeexlover

We don't have a way to test the voltage right at this moment, however it has enough power to run the engine without the battery.
Took apart part of the harness today and nothing seemed out of place, but I did find out that when I took the relay out, the lights will still work normal (took washfluid out and then the light came on as normal, along with parking brake and door... ect...) But when the relay goes back in all the lights stay on.

Goofyz

quick alternator test, start car, run car disconnect ground to battery when car is running. If car immediately dies, you haven't got enough alternator juice.


PS. If car doesn't die don't reconnect battery, just turn car off before you do that, the discharge (spark) from a running alternator to the battery may cause damage.

zzeeexlover

That's how I tested it. It worked fine... Not car stupid... just electrical stupid... Guess we'll just keep on trying to figure out what shorted. : (

AZ-ZBum

Please don't ever give advice like this. People are stupid enough as it is with electronics. This test has been proven to kill ECUs. And it doesn't always prove anything either. Alternators can be overcharging as well as undercharging. Just because the car stays running doesn't mean the alternator is working properly.

Most auto parts stores have a way to test the alternator. Most can even do it on the car. Just drive up and ask someone at the help counter.

And a good test can be performed by anyone with a hand held voltmeter. The sticky in this forum explains it quite well.