Defender405

I have recently acquired a 1987 Turbo/manual transmission car with 107,000 miles as a rescue/renovation project.
First let me say thanks for all of the info you guys (and girls too) have out in this forum. I have put new tires and exhaust on the car using advice from the forum. I have also solved the "only blows hot air from the defroster" problem with the automatic climate control. Lastly I'm taking RogerZ's blanket advice for NOOBs and rebuilding the front end of the car as soon as the parts arrive.
My questions are pretty general but I haven't found answers in searching for them. #1 what RPM does the boost usually come up on these cars? Mine seems to build really slow and not until 3500+ RPM. #2 Is the power steering usually pretty heavy? The Z seems to require more effort than my 1992 M30 but doesn't feel like there is anything binding or inoperative. #3 Do the Z31 manual transmissions like to be downshifted to slow the car? Mine runs through the gears great going up but doesn't like going into gear when downshifting.
This is my first Z, though I have had a number of Infinitis and currently own a 1992 M30 rag top so I'm familiar with old Nissans and the 3.0 V6. Since I can't just run down to Carmax and test drive another Z31 to compare, I would appreciate any input you all can give. Thanks for your help.

rogerz

the 87 had a smaller turbo so probably slower to boost than my 86. Do you have a boost gage or using the stock. Stock gages usually not real reliable. Probably want to add a boost controller and put it up to 9-10 psi. it should boost faster with the controller. Stock setup the waste gate starts to open and bleeds pressure but with the controller it pops open when you hit setpoint.
Power steering should be smooth and easy. Check to be sure the ram is not moving in the bushings when you go lock to lock.
Tranny has probably been abused by former owner. Drain and fill with Redline or Royal Purple. It may smooth things out but no miracle. I like the Redline. Buddy swears Royal Purple. are you double clutching when down shifting? got to match those revs.

Defender405

Thanks for the info. I have an additional boost gauge that shows boost coming on at the same rate as the factory unit, so I'm pretty sure it is working correctly. I will search up boost controllers, though the car seems pretty strong even at current boost levels. Mostly I was just curious where the boost usually comes on RPM wise. I will get under the car and look over the steering rack in the next few days and see whether anything looks unusual. Yeah, I do double clutch it on downshifts. I have driven an MG for years and this trans acts a lot like my 40 year old 4 speed. The flush and fill is probably a good idea at any rate, I will take your advice on that.
On an unrelated topic, are these Zs known for vapor locking? I drove it this morning for 10 minutes or so and stopped to get a drink, it didn't want to start afterwards. Engine is cranking and I'm getting spark as well as vapor out of the tailpipe. The old Porsches are known for this due to fuel pressure accumulators failing, does the Z have one of those?

rogerz

get amanual boost controller on amazon for like 50 bucks well worth it. here is one for 26 with hose

I have never had vapor lock (some folks call it heat soak) on any of my Z's But I'm in the northwest where it doesn't really get hot. Check your fuel pressure. If your fpr is letting the pressure bleed off the fuel ring quickly this may be your problem. I have cut fuel hose on junkers in the yard and there was still pressure. It shoudl sustain for quite a while otherwise get a new fpr. sometimes when you stop for a short giving a little throttle for some extra air will help. might also check the extra air thingy (might be called the AAC but I never recall stuff like that I just know it is there) on the right side of the engine just forward of the egr unit. if you haven't done so download the factory service manual from xenon31 website (or something like that) he has all the manuals and lots of good advice.

Defender405

Finally got a chance to dig into the not starting issue and this has me scratching my head. Checked fuel pressure and that is good, definitely not any type of vapor lock situation. Pulled the coil wire to make sure I was getting good spark, and I am. Re-installed the coil wire and now she fires right up, like nothing was ever wrong. I have good battery terminals and the neg terminal is solidly grounded to the body (saw that in a post so I checked ground over real good). Does the coil have its own ground? I'm not great with the FSM, but I did look and can't find where it talks about one. I'm just wondering what I did to fix the problem since I really didn't do anything. Any ideas?
Also, as soon as I get the front suspension/steering work done I will probably work on getting a boost controller and familiarizing myself with the turbo plumbing more. The front end work is probably more important from a safety/drive-ability point of view.

joselitopr

My steering wheel is kind of heavy to compare to my other cars

rogerz

sounds like your ignition wire was not properly seated and when you put it back you did. the primary of the coil needs a ground remember electric stuff needs two wires to work. one to supply the juice and one to return it to the battery. In automotive usage they use the body (ie ground) as the second conductor. on the secondary side the lightning bolt goes out through the spark plug wire and thence to ground thru the air gap of the plug to ground

Zuphoria

You going to post some pics of this rescued 87T? Thats what everybody cares about.

Defender405

It has been raining all week, but I will get her cleaned up and post some pics of the Z and what I have done. I unfortunately didn't get any "before" pics but she looks good.
RogerZ, that makes sense but I can't see where I did anything that would have effected the ground. I must have effected it somehow but I will be damned if I know how.
joselitopr, that is what I was thinking as far as the steering. The Z steers smooth and doesn't seem to bind or anything but requires more effort than my 1992 Infiniti M-30 for example. Nowhere near the effort of the Porsche 924 or MG though, so I know that the power steering is working.
Will post some pics soon.

rogerz

reman pump is cheap and easy to replace if you really think your steering is "heavy". I haven't driven anything not a z in years so can't compare. mine is about the same as my Ford Ranger and my wife's Q5 Audi

Defender405

Finally got a nice day and a chance to wash the car and shoot some photos. Here is a shutterfly link to the album.
https://defender405.shutterfly.com/p...res:albumId=10
The car is about 60% done to where I want it. Still need to fix the rust above the mudflaps on the quarter panels and do the front suspension work. Also need to replace the carpet in the rear hatch area, PO had a big speaker box sitting there and the carpet is wrinkled beyond repair.
Last owner lived on a gravel road and had his kids driving the car. They went beyond deferring maintenance to straight up neglect on the car. Tires were beyond bald, exhaust was cut off ahead of the rear axles, body was hail damaged, paint was faded badly. Rear shocks were so worn out that the car really wasn't safe to even drive. I have put about 15 hours of work and $1500 into it so far, probably have $2200-$2500 additional into it when I'm done.