Recently i have had a problem with my Z that made me take it off the road for the 1st x in 6 years, and i think /hope i am on the right path to get it going once again.
To preview my problem, i was revving the engine a few times while it was running normally, when the idle just dropped to nothing, and then after it stalling, was quite difficult to remain running. I bought a different car in the meantime, since i assumed i would be down for awhile, and needed wheels real bad.
Ran codes, got a 12, 23, 31. Went to bone yard, picked up a throttle valve switch from an 87(10.00), installed it and noticed no difference in idle , and the 23 code still appeared, along with the 12, and 31.
I noticed the the plug going to the the throttle valve switch was very easy to separate, unlike the 1 i took from the yard.
It will connect together tight, but will just pull apart. Besides that , the contacts had a greenish color, as did the original switch that i replaced. I haven't done any type of resistance/voltage tests yet, simply because i don't own a multi meter, but i will buy 1 by Sunday.
So now i went to the MAF. i unplugged it, and the car would start, stay at a good idle, i am quessing a little less than normal(i have a non working tach), but it stays at an idle, will actually get a little stronger when i put on the headlights or ac, the the gauge still shows a charge. I shut the car off, connected the MAF, and the car would barely run. I thought i had a spare MAF, but somehow it was thrown out, so my plan to just swap them out was halted.
I want to test them, when i buy the meter, but i have a few questions, and yes, i have the FSM at my disposal.
On the FSM , EF EC page 55 it shows the diagram, i am trying to learn the electric lingo, so try to bear with me here. Applying battery voltage is confusing to me. Can i use some alligator clips, connect 2 to the battery, and the other 2 to the sensor?. Will that work, or should i use an alternate 12 volt power source?. Also, When i hook up the meter, it says i should get a reading of 1.6 plus or minus 0.5 volts, is that what that means?. Any other type of numbers should make me assume the MAF should be replaced?. Like i said, i am trying to learn, i am tired of going to mechanics, and either the car sits in their lot, or they don't want to work on it.
Any type of help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated, and please try to hold some of the rude comments to a minimum. Again , i am trying to learn some basic electric, which i know very little of , especially when it comes to dealing with my Z.The main goal is to get this car moving again, but i need help in doing so.

 

Yes just use 12v off the battery. I have a spare battery I keep for testing but some long wire and alligator clips you can use the one in the car. Alternate use a motorcycle battery they are fairly cheap. yes it means what it says your reading should be between 1.1 volts and 2.1 volts. Use a hair dryer or some such to get air flow thru the unit for that test. Another idea is go to junk yard get a maf off a z31 and cut the cable take the connector and stub cable with you. makes it easier to hook up plus now you maybe have a spare maf. should have done that when you were there.

don't put a lot of faith in the codes. when you get the vom use it to test the tps. Harbor Freight has a pretty good one for under $20. Analog meter for what tests you need on most automotive is plenty good and sometimes easier for a newbie to use and understand.

get some deoxit by CAIG and use it to clean your connectors (all of them). Don't forget ecu inside the vehicle. DON'T put dielectric grease on it as some on these forums will suggest. it is an insulating medium and does not promote conductivity. check the web for definition and use.

there are several things that affect idle on the z31 check the fsm. have you done the simple stuff like change fuel filter, check fuel pressure. change air filter. look in side the dizzy for loose or broken parts. rotor okay cap okay

be helpful to know what z31 you are asking about. if it is in the post somewhere I missed it. either first line or at least in your signature makes it easier there are differences thru the years some critical to helping.

don't jump to any conclusiions about what might be wrong examine each item.

 

thought i included my car is an 86 na 5 speed.

 

another often overlooked item is that z's puke at low voltage electronics won't work. Have your battery load tested (free most places) and inspect your battery cables for corrosion and/or loose terminals. Those one size fit all clamp ons that people use are not at all reliable. Check where your ground strap goes. It should run from battery post to a bolt into the body right behind the battery on the firewall and then to the starter. There should be a piece of brass crimped onto the ground wire for this purpose. lazy ones often just cut this off but having a good solid ground (not just to the starter) is critical on z's. IF THAT special fitting is cut off try running some #10 wire from the battery post to either side of the engine compartment. There are plenty of m6 bolts you can use to ground them with. Of course you need a lug on either end.

 

Well the car turns over just fine. And the alternator shows a charge at around 14. I don't think the battery is what keeping the car off the road, especially since it turns over just fine.

 

if you think wishing will make your battery fine then hey why bother to test it

 

There seems to be a few different products by Caig titled DEOXIT. Do you recommend 1 in particular? Can this be purchased at a auto parts store, like advance or the Zone?.
Final question, can this be used also to clean out the MAF, or should i use something totally different?.

 

I firmly disagree with Roger's opinion on dielectric grease, as stated here: https://www.zdriver.com/forums/showp...23&postcount=6

from this thread: https://www.zdriver.com/forums/280zx-s130-forums-77/280zx-misfire-31017/

Dielectric grease PROTECTS metal, it doesn't increase it's conductivity, and thus needs to be used sparingly.

I'm not sure if Roger thinks that metal connectors can't possible corrode once cleaned... but yes, do as Roger suggests as RESEARCH it as I did in my post above. Roger never responded to my post either.

 

if you don't believe in the definition of dielectric then you can't read well. If you want to protect from corrosion vaseline works fine and doesn't impede current flow. The other possibility is to spend some money on real electronic corrosion spray like Corrosion-X. Deoxit hard to find. you may get if from a music store that does electric instruments and amps otherwise the net is where I eventually got some some outfit that does musician gear. the reason i never answered your inane comments about the meaning of dielectric is I have an MSEE and refuse to debate fools.