TeamRonin

88 turbo having problems with the heater unit. Blower motor blows really good but it does not blow any hot air. I went under hood and felt the heater hose to the valve. Feels warm to the touch. I also researched in a chilton's, haynes, and the factory service manual in xenonz31.com. some luck but not much. I justed wanted to stop by here and check to see if anyone knows of any common issues with the heater before i start tearing things apart that i dont need too. Im thinking heater core. oh and you cant select what part of vents ya wanna use. stuck in the defrost. im thinking the main ac/heater unit needs some love with several parts needing replacement. Last thing do i also have to drain out all the freon if i want to remove the main unit from the dash? Shouldnt of waited this long but it freakin started snowing today pretty bad. Colder than a witches tit too! ANy ideas other than dressing real warm and having a thick coat? Thanks everybody!

NismoPick

If the slider won't "slide" then you should probably start with that. I'm not too familiar w/ the Z31 heater system, but I'm sure there's a water ****/valve that is actuated by the HOT / COLD slider. I'm sure the Haynes manual covers that...

Freon is for the a/c ... coolant is for the heater ... The heater core is probably in the main unit, but not the a/c box.

TeamRonin

I've researched it in the chilton's and Haynes stating that the freon is needed to be evacuated before taking out the main unit from the dash (actually before you begin to take apart the dash) Chilton's Chapter 6 i think covers that. I know about the coolant and the freon and its operation. what confuses me is why i need to evacuate it when all the movement of freon is actually under the hood. correct me if im wrong. The question is i have never heard of having to evacuate the freon before tearing apart the dash. That's what it says in the chilton's manual. Its my first time tearing apart the dash so i just want to be sure before i start digging in there. I appreciate the help on that heater valve. You don't happen to have a part number for that heater valve do ya?

Thanks a bunch Nismo!

I am later taking out the ac compressor, evap, condensor, and lines to drop weight and add intercooler. Just don't have time now. Just don't have the funds to have the freon evacuated if need be now.

NismoPick

If your a/c still works, I strongly suggest leaving it there, unless you live in Alaska and it never gets above 75 degrees. I took my a/c out for weight loss & more room for IC piping... and I regret it all the time during the summer (110% not worth losing the 30lbs). And don't plan on taking a woman passenger along.

Anyway, this may help you:

http://nissan4u.com/parts/300zx/us_z...llustration_5/



The blower box, a/c box, and heater (main) box are all 3 separate pieces. You can remove the main control box w/o touching the a/c system.

skib

you just need some Datsun manual A/C Nismo....



.... roll down the windows and drive faster

NismoPick

That used to be how I drove... these days I want to be nice and cool at 110mph.

hoov100

Rip it all out and get an aftermarket heater, much hotter and it runs solely on electricity. Had one in my truck and it kicked ***.

TeamRonin

That's what i assumed. So then has to be a misprint in the Chilton's manual for that.

Yea, i agree with ya Nismo on the AC but I do ride with the t-tops off, let the wind get my hair, and sit back with some cool shades and enjoy the ride. I noticed I VERY RARELY use the AC and i believe i won't miss it especially when i move back to san diego, ca. I dunno i'll think about that one real hard, besides i thought it was a 50lb. weight reduction with all that removed?

TeamRonin

You have a website or company name ya went through for that kick *** heater, Hoov? Was it a universal or direct fit? Simple installation?

AZ-ZBum

That's a dumb idea. Why would you even suggest something like this? People should fix their cars right, not rig up some worthless piece of junk.



The common problems are blowing only hot air out of the defrost vents. And that's always vacuum related. Not blowing hot air is a sign of a different problem. You aren't going to find any typical issues with that other than a blocked heater core.

hoov100

How is that a dumb idea? Aftermarket heaters will take up about a 1/3'rd the room vs factory, weigh about 20 pounds less,aftermarket A/C systems are compatible, will delete ALOT of potential vacuum leaks and save the headache of finding/fixing them in the future, on top of that, you can still use all of the factory vents and you don't have to worry about heater cores leaking or replacing them. As for the junk comment, tell that to my buddy who has ran the same aftermarket "junk" heater for the past 16 years in his jeep without a hesitation. I also dont see where you get the installing something is rigging up a "worthless piece of junk"

hoov100

How is that a dumb idea? Aftermarket heaters will take up about a 1/3'rd the room vs factory, will delete ALOT of potential vacuum leaks and save the headache of finding/fixing them in the future, on top of that, you can still use all of the factory vents. As for the junk comment, tell that to my buddy who has ran the same aftermarket "junk" heater for the past 16 years in his jeep without a hesitation. I also dont see where you get the installing something is rigging up a "worthless piece of junk"

AZ-ZBum

He's going to spend far more time trying to make it fit than he would actually fixing it right. If you use that other thing, who knows what other work will be required to make it fit in the dash. Also, he'll have some crappy aftermarket ***** and switches that look like garbage. In a truck or a Jeep, no one cares what it looks like. But that stuff looks like crap in a Z. You should be ashamed of yourself for even suggesting it. It's ghetto.

AZ-ZBum

Throw the Chilton's manual in the trash. It's worthless except as a door stop. You don't have to evacuate the system at all unless you are actually removing the evaporator box. And you don't have to do that.

TeamRonin

i knew that didn't sound right. thanks!

SloppyGoat

A permanently closed heater control valve, or a stuck open thermostat can also stop heat. The first thing I would check is the HCV.

TeamRonin

Thermostat is replaced already and heater control valve is good to go as well. Either wall i need to tear apart the dash. In which im doing this weekend. I need to repair the vaccuum lines on the main unit and replace the heater core at the sametime and just wait to see what happens after that.

jrealmuto1

put some cardboard in front of your radiator like some of the mississippi rednecks do

bojo68

+1, and I've replaced a heater core in one. He's right on the proper use of Chilton manual too.

bojo68

Have you seen Hoov's rear fender flares?? I think your wasting your breath..