heater core damage
12-20-2010, 07:36 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2009
Location: New Mexico
Posts: 165
heater core damage
just now happened but i was testin out my rebuilt heads on my 88T, along with many numerous other mods I've completed, and a bang came from my dash with smoke and antifreeze. Yup a busted heater core. I wanted to see before i dig into it and start removing the dash if there is anything else i should replace and the extent of the possible damage. I know there is a write up on the Xenonz31.com to remove the dash but i just wanna make sure to see if there is another write up that could be easier or more detailed and any further advice that could help me out in this repair process. It does take about an hour right? Thanks.
12-21-2010, 05:39 AM
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2009
Location: New Mexico
Posts: 165
i just wanted to make sure first that there wasnt easier write up thats easy to follow or one that was highly recommended. Ya dont know the extent of the possible damage i could be facing do ya?
12-21-2010, 06:42 AM
#4
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Tacoma, WA
Posts: 358
It's pretty straight forward removal process no matter which writeup you use. Things to watch out for.
Be careful removing the defrost vent above the gauge cluster, they're easy to break if not careful. Tip: use an old screwdriver with the tip bent 90 degrees to hold the spring release clip back while you carefully pry up on the vent. they are supposed to stay when you push them back but sometimes they don't. The small vent above the cluster is usually the problem one. You have to remove all the vents to get at the four 10mm bolts holding the dash in.
Once the dash is out, you will have to remove a bunch of other stuff to get to the heater core. Buy a roll of new vacuum hose and replace all the hose on the air box. Check all the vacuum diaphragms and the foam on the ducts.
Removing the dash can be time consuming but after doing it a few times, it get easier. I can pull one in about 15-20 minutes. It's easier if you pull the steering wheel first.
Be careful removing the defrost vent above the gauge cluster, they're easy to break if not careful. Tip: use an old screwdriver with the tip bent 90 degrees to hold the spring release clip back while you carefully pry up on the vent. they are supposed to stay when you push them back but sometimes they don't. The small vent above the cluster is usually the problem one. You have to remove all the vents to get at the four 10mm bolts holding the dash in.
Once the dash is out, you will have to remove a bunch of other stuff to get to the heater core. Buy a roll of new vacuum hose and replace all the hose on the air box. Check all the vacuum diaphragms and the foam on the ducts.
Removing the dash can be time consuming but after doing it a few times, it get easier. I can pull one in about 15-20 minutes. It's easier if you pull the steering wheel first.
12-21-2010, 12:26 PM
#5
Ruff Ryder
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: palm desert
Posts: 6,140
It's pretty straight forward removal process no matter which writeup you use. Things to watch out for.
Be careful removing the defrost vent above the gauge cluster, they're easy to break if not careful. Tip: use an old screwdriver with the tip bent 90 degrees to hold the spring release clip back while you carefully pry up on the vent. they are supposed to stay when you push them back but sometimes they don't. The small vent above the cluster is usually the problem one. You have to remove all the vents to get at the four 10mm bolts holding the dash in.
Once the dash is out, you will have to remove a bunch of other stuff to get to the heater core. Buy a roll of new vacuum hose and replace all the hose on the air box. Check all the vacuum diaphragms and the foam on the ducts.
Removing the dash can be time consuming but after doing it a few times, it get easier. I can pull one in about 15-20 minutes. It's easier if you pull the steering wheel first.
Be careful removing the defrost vent above the gauge cluster, they're easy to break if not careful. Tip: use an old screwdriver with the tip bent 90 degrees to hold the spring release clip back while you carefully pry up on the vent. they are supposed to stay when you push them back but sometimes they don't. The small vent above the cluster is usually the problem one. You have to remove all the vents to get at the four 10mm bolts holding the dash in.
Once the dash is out, you will have to remove a bunch of other stuff to get to the heater core. Buy a roll of new vacuum hose and replace all the hose on the air box. Check all the vacuum diaphragms and the foam on the ducts.
Removing the dash can be time consuming but after doing it a few times, it get easier. I can pull one in about 15-20 minutes. It's easier if you pull the steering wheel first.
12-22-2010, 03:55 PM
#8
Ruff Ryder
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: palm desert
Posts: 6,140
If the heater core leaks, it could leak out the vent, onto the floor, be absorbed into the carpet and if not fixed for a while it will start to form rust and start to rot the carpet.
12-26-2010, 09:46 PM
#13
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2009
Location: New Mexico
Posts: 165
Okay here it is guys, And i actually had to stop once reached to Heater core. I started late as hell too but did not stop me busted out the flood lights. When i was takin this apart with my buddy i was thinkin damn should pay somebody to do this ****. But where would it get me so i continued cuz i believe its imperative to know ya Z in and out PLUS shes my lady and i wont let another man touch my lady. Thanks everyone for ya help and assistance. This is what Zdriver is all about.
Problem 1: On the Heater core box where the actuators are, there is a small bar that all the vacuum hoses link to. Is that replaceable? I have a air leak there.
Problem 2: During reassembly can i use any weather stirppin for the heater core and vents? Cant find high temp weather stripping.
Problem 3: The best way to secure the heater core in the box? Can i run the weather stripping across the vents and fins of the heater core or should i put something there?
Problem 4: How can i check to see if my heater valve is working properly other than blowing through it?
Question 1: Is there any way i can gut the AC box and patch the firewall since i no longer have ac but provide flow from the blower motor to blow heat from the heater core box?
Question 2: Can i bypass the the whole entire heater core and ac system or gut the whole thing out and leave it empty under my dash?
Question 3: What other options do i have before i start assembling everything together?
Here's some pics from my phone. I'll show more when i get more light.
Pulling this damn dash was easy as hell to do! Got it in about 35mins. BUT REPLACING THE FREAKIN HEATER CORE TAKES PATIENCE!
Another image of dash pulled. Did not finish the Heater core replacement due to needed parts to complete.
View of engine plus where i had to push through the ac and heater core lines
The future placement of my GT30R Ball Bearing turbo and my modified exhaust manifold piping to support it.
Close up view of where i pushed the lines through the fire wall.
PS
Replace ya heater core if ya have the original and not the metal one. My plastic piece of **** heater core was so brittled it broke in some places very easily and best showed why it failed. Luckily no damage to anything but my carpet and a nasty smell of coolant. Thanks again everybody!
Problem 1: On the Heater core box where the actuators are, there is a small bar that all the vacuum hoses link to. Is that replaceable? I have a air leak there.
Problem 2: During reassembly can i use any weather stirppin for the heater core and vents? Cant find high temp weather stripping.
Problem 3: The best way to secure the heater core in the box? Can i run the weather stripping across the vents and fins of the heater core or should i put something there?
Problem 4: How can i check to see if my heater valve is working properly other than blowing through it?
Question 1: Is there any way i can gut the AC box and patch the firewall since i no longer have ac but provide flow from the blower motor to blow heat from the heater core box?
Question 2: Can i bypass the the whole entire heater core and ac system or gut the whole thing out and leave it empty under my dash?
Question 3: What other options do i have before i start assembling everything together?
Here's some pics from my phone. I'll show more when i get more light.
Pulling this damn dash was easy as hell to do! Got it in about 35mins. BUT REPLACING THE FREAKIN HEATER CORE TAKES PATIENCE!
Another image of dash pulled. Did not finish the Heater core replacement due to needed parts to complete.
View of engine plus where i had to push through the ac and heater core lines
The future placement of my GT30R Ball Bearing turbo and my modified exhaust manifold piping to support it.
Close up view of where i pushed the lines through the fire wall.
PS
Replace ya heater core if ya have the original and not the metal one. My plastic piece of **** heater core was so brittled it broke in some places very easily and best showed why it failed. Luckily no damage to anything but my carpet and a nasty smell of coolant. Thanks again everybody!
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