300zx/280zx buying advice
#1
300zx/280zx buying advice
Going to check out an 88 NA, 86 Turbo and a 83 280zx this weekend, all high mileage cars.
What's the general opinion about z31 turbo's, should I stay away from them if I don't want to sink a lot of money into the car? Are 280zx's just too old, hard to find parts for? Any real problem areas specific to zx's, I know to look for rust underneath.
Currently I have a RX-7 but have had a couple of 240Z's years ago.
Thanks.
What's the general opinion about z31 turbo's, should I stay away from them if I don't want to sink a lot of money into the car? Are 280zx's just too old, hard to find parts for? Any real problem areas specific to zx's, I know to look for rust underneath.
Currently I have a RX-7 but have had a couple of 240Z's years ago.
Thanks.
#3
For any car.... be specific when looking at the car. Look for rust all over. Look for possible damage (accident) repairs. Oil leaks from the engine, trans, diff. yada yada yada. Just look over everything in detail.
#5
Originally Posted by pmr2000
O.k. so we're saying a turbo can last if maintained?
I know a lot of guys in our RX-7 club have a lot of problems with their turbos.
Should I forget about 280zx's, are they just too old hard to get parts for?
I know a lot of guys in our RX-7 club have a lot of problems with their turbos.
Should I forget about 280zx's, are they just too old hard to get parts for?
280zx turbo's are great cars. Parts are just as available for them.
oh.... and 99% of the time, when people have probs w/ turbos, it's because someone is an idiot & doesn't know how to take care of a turbo.... i.e. let it cool down before turning it off. A lot of throttle happy people don't take the time to care for their car.
#7
First off the 280zx is NOT too old . Take everyone else advice and just really look the cars over.
Basically it comes down to what you want to get out of the car. Taking into the theoretical consideration that all 3 are mechanically in the same state and rust hasn't significantly attacked any single one: Which would you rather own? the Z31 or the S130? Which catches your eye more? For the Z31's: If both are in good shape take the turbo car. THere is absolutely no reason to NOT take the turbo car unless it was neglected. Replacing the turbo can cost as much as an entire engine in some cases. A turbo engine isn't any more unreliable or troublesome then a non turbo car. Just make sure you put forth the extra effort to keep it maintained (and make sure the previous owner did the same).
Basically it comes down to what you want to get out of the car. Taking into the theoretical consideration that all 3 are mechanically in the same state and rust hasn't significantly attacked any single one: Which would you rather own? the Z31 or the S130? Which catches your eye more? For the Z31's: If both are in good shape take the turbo car. THere is absolutely no reason to NOT take the turbo car unless it was neglected. Replacing the turbo can cost as much as an entire engine in some cases. A turbo engine isn't any more unreliable or troublesome then a non turbo car. Just make sure you put forth the extra effort to keep it maintained (and make sure the previous owner did the same).
#8
#9
bought an '84 300zx
Wound up buying the 84 300zx, 76,000 original miles but has some rust issues. Over $4,000 or receipts and 20 years of documentation so the mileage seems legit, do not do a carfax. Recent work was timing belt/water pump/front pulley/tune up/front end/tires/brakes/muffler all done by Nissan dealer.
Any suggestions on the following problems:
1-Clutch is almost gone, any suggestions on where to get replacement parts/brand?
2-right front fender hit (bumper/headlight/door/hood fine) where can I get a replacement, how hard is it to replace?
3-rust on lower rear quarters, unibody rails are good but front right floor is rusting and more importantly back right plate, not sure if this is control arm or what? There is a area with a metal plate with bolt and sway or control arms attached?
Any rust tips?
I bought this car dirt cheap as a project, the owner wanted someone to save it not part it out.
Thanks
Any suggestions on the following problems:
1-Clutch is almost gone, any suggestions on where to get replacement parts/brand?
2-right front fender hit (bumper/headlight/door/hood fine) where can I get a replacement, how hard is it to replace?
3-rust on lower rear quarters, unibody rails are good but front right floor is rusting and more importantly back right plate, not sure if this is control arm or what? There is a area with a metal plate with bolt and sway or control arms attached?
Any rust tips?
I bought this car dirt cheap as a project, the owner wanted someone to save it not part it out.
Thanks
#10
First off congratulations on your purchase.
1. There are a number of places on the web, including ebay that sell good clutches for cheap. If the car is all stock then a factory spec clutch will work just fine.
2. The first place I would check for a fender is the junk yard. Z31 seem to be fairly abundant in junkyards. Of all the Z's they are the one I see most of. If that fails ask around the forums and check ebay from time to time. And finally you could always buy a new one from places like www.zcarparts.com and Nissan.
3.If the rust isn't bad you can try to wire brushing it off. If it's penetrated the metal then you've got two choices. First, if you're good with a welder and metal working then you can do the work yourself. Otherwise you can take it to a body shop and have them do it. I guess a third option would be to ignore it
1. There are a number of places on the web, including ebay that sell good clutches for cheap. If the car is all stock then a factory spec clutch will work just fine.
2. The first place I would check for a fender is the junk yard. Z31 seem to be fairly abundant in junkyards. Of all the Z's they are the one I see most of. If that fails ask around the forums and check ebay from time to time. And finally you could always buy a new one from places like www.zcarparts.com and Nissan.
3.If the rust isn't bad you can try to wire brushing it off. If it's penetrated the metal then you've got two choices. First, if you're good with a welder and metal working then you can do the work yourself. Otherwise you can take it to a body shop and have them do it. I guess a third option would be to ignore it
#12
Originally Posted by duowing
Wehn having a body shop do that kind of work. How much can that run. That's something I've always wondered.
#13
Thanks for the replies, now I have a museum of 80's Japanese sports cars in the garage-'88 RX-7 and '84 300ZX.
As far as the welding, I once had a '71 240Z front right rail and floor welded back around 1983, it cost me $400 then! But it was pretty bad, the rail was pulling away from the body when you hit the brakes.
As far as the welding, I once had a '71 240Z front right rail and floor welded back around 1983, it cost me $400 then! But it was pretty bad, the rail was pulling away from the body when you hit the brakes.
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