buying first Z, advice plz..
#1
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buying first Z, advice plz..
hi, im planning on buying my first Z car..(looking for a 70-72 i think).
any advice on what to look for is very well appreciated.
And, do the automatic models really suck (can the engine be built up w/ an auto, are there aftermarket converters, are the automatics beefy)?
thanx.
any advice on what to look for is very well appreciated.
And, do the automatic models really suck (can the engine be built up w/ an auto, are there aftermarket converters, are the automatics beefy)?
thanx.
#3
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Re: buying first Z, advice plz..
First a generalisation: for track racing the auto's suck (all auto's, all cars - not including semi-auto's).
But my '73 came out the factory as an auto & that's the way it's gonna stay, even with the 400+ HP L31ETT.
The 3N71B gearbox has been used by most Japanese manufacturers throughout the 70's & 80's. They can be built very tough (well tough enough for a 'L' block anyway).
I have a built up 3N71B & a 4N71B both with kevlar clutches, modified valve-body & higher stall (mid 2000's). I have been using the 3-speed for nearly 4-years with 2 different turbo Datsuns & the only problem I've had is blowing up vacuum modulators (literally). I have solved this problem by bleeding off the vacuum line & adding a check-valve & restriction to prevent it from becoming too pressurised under boost.
The way I feel, is that it's nice to have an auto daily driver & a manual weekend-warrior, especially if you have to contend with peak-hour traffic.
As Alan said (he's learned quickly - only owned a Z for about a month...) get a good shell - there isn't enough money in your bank-balance to buy all the nice aftermarket bits that are available for the Z series. But it's much more fun saving for them than fixing rust.
JMHO
Ben
Adelaide,
South Australia
But my '73 came out the factory as an auto & that's the way it's gonna stay, even with the 400+ HP L31ETT.
The 3N71B gearbox has been used by most Japanese manufacturers throughout the 70's & 80's. They can be built very tough (well tough enough for a 'L' block anyway).
I have a built up 3N71B & a 4N71B both with kevlar clutches, modified valve-body & higher stall (mid 2000's). I have been using the 3-speed for nearly 4-years with 2 different turbo Datsuns & the only problem I've had is blowing up vacuum modulators (literally). I have solved this problem by bleeding off the vacuum line & adding a check-valve & restriction to prevent it from becoming too pressurised under boost.
The way I feel, is that it's nice to have an auto daily driver & a manual weekend-warrior, especially if you have to contend with peak-hour traffic.
As Alan said (he's learned quickly - only owned a Z for about a month...) get a good shell - there isn't enough money in your bank-balance to buy all the nice aftermarket bits that are available for the Z series. But it's much more fun saving for them than fixing rust.
JMHO
Ben
Adelaide,
South Australia
#4
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Re: buying first Z, advice plz..
Hi
I totally agree with Alan. There are some very common places where the early zeds will rust.
-The lower "dog leg" behind the doors.
-the area under the battery tray
-floors of course
-the areas around and under the rubber window seals
-of course the wheel well flanges
I am sure that there are some areas I am forgetting, so I hope some one else can add there own input.
Good luck
Oh yeah, buy the best example you can afford it will save you money in the long run.
I totally agree with Alan. There are some very common places where the early zeds will rust.
-The lower "dog leg" behind the doors.
-the area under the battery tray
-floors of course
-the areas around and under the rubber window seals
-of course the wheel well flanges
I am sure that there are some areas I am forgetting, so I hope some one else can add there own input.
Good luck
Oh yeah, buy the best example you can afford it will save you money in the long run.
#7
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Re: buying first Z, advice plz..
I agree with Ben the automatics suck. I owned a 240 with a automatic. Did not enjoy it as much as I would've if it was a manual transmission. If you are going to keep it stock go for the stick. If you are looking to pump it up then a auto is ok I guess.
Happy hunting for your Z!
Warren
Happy hunting for your Z!
Warren
#8
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Re: buying first Z, advice plz..
I just got my 280 for 400 bucks.. It's quite ugly right now, but the body and frame and engine are sound. The only rust spot [ew!] was in the spare wheel-well. Rusted clean through. It's fixed now though. Time to do the interior!
never jump into a pile of leaves with a wet sucker
never jump into a pile of leaves with a wet sucker
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