Brakes Help!!!
#1
Brakes Help!!!
I was switching the brake pads on my 1987 300zx and i got the front brakes on with no problem....and when i got to the back im stuck....the piston wont compress and it almost looks as if it is a "screw piston" and i have no clue if that is real or not....but the piston wont compress and the caliper wont shut w/o the piston compressing...i have used a c clamp and a huge clamp and it still wont compress...and i even started the car and hit the brakes and the piston in the back didnt even move...i have no clue what could be wrong...if anyone knows please help thanks
#4
Originally Posted by ddatsun
Yeah i already have a haynes manual and it didnt say anything about them being screw pistons so i wasnt quite sure...do you know where i can get the tool that twist them then??
Page 208. Step 27.
Retract the piston in the cylinder body by using needle nose pliers to turn the piston clockwise until the pad has enough room to be installed.
Page 209. Image 2.27.
And you can get the tool at any auto parts store.
#7
STOP!!! Go to a auto parts store ie Kragen/ Auto Zone and get the $10- $15 tool that will turn it back... If you push to hard on the calipers piston, it might brake!!! (unable to turn it back) then you will need new ones. You can also rent the tools to help get the job done...
#8
Open up your brake master cylendar. When u start to retract your rear pistions it iwll fill up or better back flush your brake system.. after you do get your brakes on i would recomend " gravity bleeding your brakes" get two , 1 liter bottles of brake fluid and do it right..
p.s. u can use needle nose pliers on the rear and use 4 -6 inch c clamps on the front calipers..
U can use a small flat head screwdriver.. but its not safe and u could slip and stab your self.. NOT LIKE I WOULD KNOW THAT LOL
p.s. u can use needle nose pliers on the rear and use 4 -6 inch c clamps on the front calipers..
U can use a small flat head screwdriver.. but its not safe and u could slip and stab your self.. NOT LIKE I WOULD KNOW THAT LOL
#9
Originally Posted by nismo619
Open up your brake master cylendar. When u start to retract your rear pistions it iwll fill up or better back flush your brake system.. after you do get your brakes on i would recomend " gravity bleeding your brakes" get two , 1 liter bottles of brake fluid and do it right..
p.s. u can use needle nose pliers on the rear and use 4 -6 inch c clamps on the front calipers..
U can use a small flat head screwdriver.. but its not safe and u could slip and stab your self.. NOT LIKE I WOULD KNOW THAT LOL
p.s. u can use needle nose pliers on the rear and use 4 -6 inch c clamps on the front calipers..
U can use a small flat head screwdriver.. but its not safe and u could slip and stab your self.. NOT LIKE I WOULD KNOW THAT LOL
#10
Ok AZ BUM....i know how to read a manual and i know what needle nose pliers are and those dont work....so your manual theory doesnt really work...if it would have i wouldnt have asked on here....and "no" it doesnt turn by hand....its really hard....and ive used a screwdriver, but it still doesnt move for somereason...and i already got the front brakes on....im going to bleed the brake line and maybe that will fix the problem of the piston not moving at all
#11
Originally Posted by ddatsun
Ok AZ BUM....i know how to read a manual and i know what needle nose pliers are and those dont work....so your manual theory doesnt really work...if it would have i wouldnt have asked on here....and "no" it doesnt turn by hand....its really hard....and ive used a screwdriver, but it still doesnt move for somereason...and i already got the front brakes on....im going to bleed the brake line and maybe that will fix the problem of the piston not moving at all
You couldn't figure out the needle nose pliers method, but you tried to use a screwdriver? You realize you have to apply equal pressure to opposite sides or it won't work, right?
Go out, buy the tool from ANY auto parts store ($5 to $10) and try it again.
#15
The tool you rent from the auto part store is 10 TIMES better than the $10 tool... it can turn and push at the same time!!! (evenly) Not saying that the $10 tool is no good... If you tried to compress with a c clamp to hard, you may of messed it up...
#17
Originally Posted by turboZ87.300
The tool you rent from the auto part store is 10 TIMES better than the $10 tool... it can turn and push at the same time!!! (evenly) Not saying that the $10 tool is no good... If you tried to compress with a c clamp to hard, you may of messed it up...
Originally Posted by hoov100
you have to ask yourself how man times do you do rear brakes on your car and then you have to ask yourself why you havent converted to a better rear brake setup.
Now, to answer your question, I'll answer it with another question...
How do YOU define a "better rear brake setup"?
#19
Originally Posted by turboZ87.300
Attachment 6595 rent... runs about $75-$100 get your $ back on return...
Attachment 6596 the $10 tool
Attachment 6596 the $10 tool
#20
i only replace my pads when they need to be replaced, i only change the rotors when they need to be, the only benefit i could see in doing something like that is for peace of mind. (most of my rotors need replaced every other brake pad change, but thats just my driving)
#21
Originally Posted by AZ-ZBum
So you're talking about an overpriced, setup that has no real advantage other than a ton of different parts. Might be worth it if you own a shop. But for the DIYer, the $10 will work just fine. And you won't spend the time and gas running to the store hoping they have it in stock.
BTY... you should only need this tool if one of two reasons... 1)If you used a C CLAMP instead of the "right" tool... 2) If you let the pads and rotors get to low...
oh yea... you said "setup that has no real advantag" yes it does... it keeps the piston lined up so less chance of damage!!!
Last edited by turboZ87.300; 11-09-2007 at 07:34 AM.
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