Brakes Help!!!
 

I was switching the brake pads on my 1987 300zx and i got the front brakes on with no problem....and when i got to the back im stuck....the piston wont compress and it almost looks as if it is a "screw piston" and i have no clue if that is real or not....but the piston wont compress and the caliper wont shut w/o the piston compressing...i have used a c clamp and a huge clamp and it still wont compress...and i even started the car and hit the brakes and the piston in the back didnt even move...i have no clue what could be wrong...if anyone knows please help thanks

You should buy a Haynes manual before proceeding with any more work on your car. But to answer your question, yes. They screw in to compress them.

Brakes
 

Yeah i already have a haynes manual and it didnt say anything about them being screw pistons so i wasnt quite sure...do you know where i can get the tool that twist them then??

Then maybe you should try opening the book, reading, and even look at the pretty pictures.

Page 208. Step 27.
Retract the piston in the cylinder body by using needle nose pliers to turn the piston clockwise until the pad has enough room to be installed.

Page 209. Image 2.27.

And you can get the tool at any auto parts store.

cant you even turn it by hand? (never done screw type rear brakes)

Not even remotely.

STOP!!! Go to a auto parts store ie Kragen/ Auto Zone and get the $10- $15 tool that will turn it back... If you push to hard on the calipers piston, it might brake!!! (unable to turn it back) then you will need new ones. You can also rent the tools to help get the job done...

Open up your brake master cylendar. When u start to retract your rear pistions it iwll fill up or better back flush your brake system.. after you do get your brakes on i would recomend " gravity bleeding your brakes" get two , 1 liter bottles of brake fluid and do it right..

p.s. u can use needle nose pliers on the rear and use 4 -6 inch c clamps on the front calipers..

U can use a small flat head screwdriver.. but its not safe and u could slip and stab your self.. NOT LIKE I WOULD KNOW THAT LOL

Does anyone else think "MORON" every time they see someone type the letter "U" instead of writing out "YOU"?

Ok AZ BUM....i know how to read a manual and i know what needle nose pliers are and those dont work....so your manual theory doesnt really work...if it would have i wouldnt have asked on here....and "no" it doesnt turn by hand....its really hard....and ive used a screwdriver, but it still doesnt move for somereason...and i already got the front brakes on....im going to bleed the brake line and maybe that will fix the problem of the piston not moving at all

The needle nose pliers method worked just fine for me for the first few times. Then, I bought my tool for about $5 at Sears and found out how much better it worked. But the needle nose pliers method works just fine if you are smart about it. So the "manual theory" is a working application.

You couldn't figure out the needle nose pliers method, but you tried to use a screwdriver? You realize you have to apply equal pressure to opposite sides or it won't work, right?

Go out, buy the tool from ANY auto parts store ($5 to $10) and try it again.

ok once again if the needle nose pliers "application" worked i wouldn't have asked a question on this site....and ok thanks for the info on the tool

go to autozone and do the loan a tool thing....

Why? It's a $10 part that's great to have in your tool kit. It's about the size of 8 regular dice.

The tool you rent from the auto part store is 10 TIMES better than the $10 tool... it can turn and push at the same time!!! (evenly) Not saying that the $10 tool is no good... If you tried to compress with a c clamp to hard, you may of messed it up... :paranoid:

you have to ask yourself how man times do you do rear brakes on your car and then you have to ask yourself why you havent converted to a better rear brake setup.

Oh, please! Show us a picture of this "tool" that does this. I've never heard of it. The Nissan manual makes no mention of it. We're all dying to see how this works.
In my own experience, I replace the rear pads at a ratio of two to one over the fronts. And since that's in 3 different Z31s, I'd say that's some what normal.

Now, to answer your question, I'll answer it with another question...
How do YOU define a "better rear brake setup"?

Attachment 6595 rent... runs about $75-$100 get your $ back on return...

Attachment 6596 the $10 tool

So you're talking about an overpriced, setup that has no real advantage other than a ton of different parts. Might be worth it if you own a shop. But for the DIYer, the $10 will work just fine. And you won't spend the time and gas running to the store hoping they have it in stock.

i only replace my pads when they need to be replaced, i only change the rotors when they need to be, the only benefit i could see in doing something like that is for peace of mind. (most of my rotors need replaced every other brake pad change, but thats just my driving)

How do you figure "overpriced", this is the right tool for the job!!! You, me and millions others will most likely never need it, buuuuuuuuuuut for the hand full of people like ddatsun that can't get the piston turned back, this is the last thing to try before replacement, and my goodness it's a rental tool... most places don't charge for this!!! So you pay for the tool... you use it... you take it back... they give you your $$$ back (some places charge a small fee like $5 a day)... but for a $100 tool that most likely work...

BTY... you should only need this tool if one of two reasons... 1)If you used a C CLAMP instead of the "right" tool... 2) If you let the pads and rotors get to low... :037:

oh yea... you said "setup that has no real advantag" yes it does... it keeps the piston lined up so less chance of damage!!!

So does the $10 tool.

Noooo... the tool does not keep you from cross threaded the piston IF the piston has came out to far!!!